Instead of wasting your money on these crappy agm batteries I would invest in an ionic 125ah or impulse 120ah with Bluetooth tech and call it a day.
2023 Ford F150 XLT Super Crew 2.7L Ecoboost FX4
2021 Phoenix 721/ Mercury 250 ProXS 4s
HDS16 Pro- Solix15 : Console
HDS16 Pro W/AT - Garmin 126 W/ lvs34 - Solix12/ 360 : Bow
Dual 10' Blades/ Lowrance Ghost/ Bobs Hydraulic Plate
225ah cranking / 100ah trolling. Ionic/Relion lithium
MLF Invitationals Angler
Instagram @brettcarnright
2021 Phoenix 819 - Mercury 200 Pro XS - Ser No 2B779353
Ultrex/Humminbird Helix 12 SI Mega/Helix 10 Mega DI/Mega 360
Garmin 1022 with LVS34
Odyssey 31M-PC2150 is on the way This battery business is way to confusing for my simple mind. The bad thing about this whole deal is 90 % of the boats today are rigged the incorrect battery from the dealers. I asked 4 of my friends what battery they have on there new boats almost all of them have the 920 CCA interstate AGM battery which is below Mercury requirements for CCA.
Did you have to change your charger for the Ionic? I am considering getting rid of my 31 AGM for an Ionic cranking battery but dont want to change my charger up. I currently have a 4 bank minn kota that came in my 2022 721 which i see on their website would work, but I would like to know from someone who actually has one
2023 Ford F150 XLT Super Crew 2.7L Ecoboost FX4
2021 Phoenix 721/ Mercury 250 ProXS 4s
HDS16 Pro- Solix15 : Console
HDS16 Pro W/AT - Garmin 126 W/ lvs34 - Solix12/ 360 : Bow
Dual 10' Blades/ Lowrance Ghost/ Bobs Hydraulic Plate
225ah cranking / 100ah trolling. Ionic/Relion lithium
MLF Invitationals Angler
Instagram @brettcarnright
Yes it will work - the MK precision chargers work fine with lithiums when you set each bank to AGM mode - the new ones have lithium mode. I run a 2018 MK 460PC and its charged my 5 lithium batteries for the last 4 seasons without issue. Also agree whole heartedly - go with the lithiums!
Last edited by Meleagris1; 12-10-2022 at 06:29 AM.
________________________________________________
2024 Phoenix 21 XE - Mercury 250 PRO XS Serial #3B429919
2017 Phoenix PHX 21 - Yamaha 250 SHO
2010 Skeeter 20i - Yamaha 250 SHO
1988 Procraft 1780 Competitor - Mercury 100
Reserve capacity has always been the least talked about battery specification. With the amount of graphs a lot of people are running plus the amp draw of todays electronics this makes reserve capacity just as an important specification as cranking amps.
I tell people to think of cranking amps as how much power your battery can provide *for a few seconds when you crank your motor*. The key part of that statement is crank amps are rated based on a 30 second load. I tell people to think of reserve capacity as being like a fuel tank, which would be how long will that power run for. Reserve capacity is how many minutes a battery can supply 25 amps before going dead. This is why reserve capacity is important because the trend has moved towards multiple graphs running high amp draw electronics while fishing, hence why you need high reserve capacity.
Personally I would want a minimum of 200 minutes reserve capacity, however that may not be enough pending your load. For example if you have 360 and live target and then your running a third unit for mapping while your fishing then you need more than a cranking battery with 200 minutes of reserve capacity. There is 2-3 options. You can run another battery in parallel and double the capacity or run another battery and isolate the ecteronics. Another option would be to go to a lithium with a high ah rating.
Some batteries (mostly lithium) are rated buy ah (amp hour) ah and reserve capacity both indicate how long a battery can supply power however ah is rated for 1 hour whereas reserve capacity is rated on the total amount of minutes. ah is how many amps a battery can supply in 1 hour, hence the name ah/amp hour. If you have a lot of electronics and you want to use the battery as a cranking battery I would consider a 100-125ah battery. If your using the battery and just putting nothing but electronics on it then I would go with 100 ah for a lot of electronics and something smaller for less electronics. I will use myself as an example. I have livescope and a black box on a 30ah lithium battery. That is all that is on the battery so 30ah is plenty enough to get me through a full day of fishing. Sometimes I run another graph with mapping and it is hooked to my boats cranking battery. Just occasionally running one unit on the boat cranking battery does not require a lot of capacity so I have a single cranking battery with 200 minutes of reserve capacity. If I had multiple units on my lithiumn battery just for electronics there is no way I would go with 30 ah. I would increase the capacity number based on the demand of the load applied.
The most important thing is to know what amp load your motor requires to crank. Then you also need to know how many amps you accessories like graphs, live wells, black lights or anything else you may run on a routine basis will draw. Base you battery needs on what demand you put on it. I guarantee my set up would be dead in 2-3 hours on a boat with a tons of accessories, however based on my specific set up I feel confident I can run all day and still have power.