To fuze buss or battery

[1beeteam]

I have two hds 12s and one garmin 1222 with live scope and black box. The black box is on a switch and all the wires are run straight to the battery. Have all them plus the jack plate and Stealth one charger. I feel like I have to many wires going to the battery. I would like to run the unit wires to a fuze buss but I know that everyone say to run straight to the battery. How many people have their's run to a fuze buss and do you have any problems. Thanks Rex

[CatFan]

Blue Sea fuse block is the way to go. Similar to this https://www.bluesea.com/products/502..._Bus_and_Cover

I don’t recommend fuzes in your boat. Would make fishing more productive, but it’s generally frowned upon to fish that way

[1beeteam]

John that is the one I have but 12 connection

[1beeteam]

Now I see what you were talking about fuze in the boat but fuse would be right Haha Thanks Rex

[CatFan]

Now I see what you were talking about fuze in the boat but fuse would be right Haha Thanks Rex

I worked with artillery fuzes and electricity. I have to be careful or I’ll type the wrong word half the time, and autocorrect doesn’t help.

[wmitch2]

8ga from the battery to the Blue Seas fuse block mounted on the underside of the front stb locker, then 10ga to each graph.

[bottomfisher]

8ga from the battery to the Blue Seas fuse block mounted on the underside of the front stb locker, then 10ga to each graph.

May just be a bad picture or my eyes, but it looks to me like the terminal on you positive is broken.

[catdude28]

May just be a bad picture or my eyes, but it looks to me like the terminal on you positive is broken.

Probably a 90 degree connector

[Titansfan2104]

Looks broken to me.. I wouldn't want that. Other than bending those terminals to make them fit a little tighter i did exactly what he di. I ran 8 ga to the front and installed a fuse block and then 10 ga within a few inches of the units.

[billnorman1]

8ga from the battery to the Blue Seas fuse block mounted on the underside of the front stb locker, then 10ga to each graph.

Nice neat job. I'd recommend a tight rubber lined clamp securing the wire bundle to the hatch cover to take any stress off the terminals.

[Bullet[BS]]

I went to a bus bar under my console for my 2 HDS 12's and structure scan box. I have power coming to a switch which gives me the option of using a dedicated battery, and if that battery has an issue then I can flip the switch and supply power from my cranking battery. The bus bar with or with out fuses is the way to go for sure, makes it cleaner and easy to find any issues that may come up.

[wmitch2]

May just be a bad picture or my eyes, but it looks to me like the terminal on you positive is broken.

Yes, it was. I didn't notice any issues, but I changed it out anyway. I couldn't find a 90* connector so I had to bend a straight one.

[Crestliner16]

I don't recommend bending any electrical connections. You may be better off using the screw type zip tie and probably use two or three to form a loop that allows for a straight connection. Especially because you have the space on the underside of the lid.

[ifishinxs]

Most if not all MDF’s have an inline fuse. To make things simple I use a Positive and Negative Buss bar at the console and bow. If your electronics are no fused or your going to remove the inline fuse then the Blue seas fuse panel is the way to go.

[zred]

So to be clear, if running in line fuses, one only needs to use a buss bar.

[Siebert Outdoors]

I ran 2 runs of 8 g one to a blue sea fuse block in the right rod locker to power my neama and graphs.(had a 3d box) The power cords run directly to the block. The second run goes to the front and runs the graph up there. Eventually I’ll expand all of that. All is run through a perko on off switch