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  1. #1
    Member
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    Mar 2008
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    Belton, SC
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    368

    Question 2008 21x Dash rebuild

    Can anyone post pics of their reinforcement when attempting to dual mount on the older consoles. I am making a starboard plate but want ideas on your fabricated brackets. Thanks.
    2008 Tr 21X- 2018 250 Mercury Pro XS 4S
    2B595479

  2. Member
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    Aug 2021
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    Nottaway Va
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    392
    #2
    I'm paying attention as I'm about to upgrade my dash setup as well. Single 9" HDS live is going to replace the 7" flush mounted older HDS.

    My plan for the front side is a new aluminum dash plate, move 2 gauges, Bass Boat Technologies Warrior series bracket to replace the plastic Lowrance one provided with the 9, and then figure out the back side when I get in there. I anticipate some kind of aluminum bracket on the inside that is through bolted to the BBT mount and secured to the boat on the inside of the dash ,the last part is the hardest part I'd say.
    Last edited by XXXLTRP; 11-30-2022 at 06:02 AM.

  3. Member
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    Jul 2012
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    Central Kentucky
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    #3
    If I remember correctly, there’s a guy on here who did a really nice job upgrading his 2008 model dash. Hopefully he chimes in here but you may be able to find it with the search function.

  4. Member
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    Mar 2012
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    Del Rio, TX
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    #4
    Not promoting anyone but Ashmore Marine Products has one. You can see the pics of it.

    https://ashmoremarine.com/shop/ols/p...-2009-x-series

  5. Member
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    Jul 2019
    Location
    Flanders, New Jersey
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    26
    #5
    triton dash mount.jpg
    I installed a dual BBT mount, it has a bolt brace going from the dash plate to an L bracket bolted into the console. Hope that helps, pretty easy to do a similar set up once you make the dash plate.

  6. Member
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    Mar 2008
    Location
    camden,tn
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    969
    #6
    Theres a couple flat fiberglass braces when i took the dash out of my ta196 triton.I made a 1/8in alum hat and screwed it to the flat braces.Then made a z piece out of1/8in alum.Bought a cutting board from walmart and cut a piece to go on the front of the dash plate..Put the dash and the plate back in with the screws i took out and then used self tappung screws to sandwich it wll together.

  7. Member
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    Mar 2008
    Location
    Belton, SC
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    368
    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by 6BOOMER View Post
    Not promoting anyone but Ashmore Marine Products has one. You can see the pics of it.

    https://ashmoremarine.com/shop/ols/p...-2009-x-series
    I reached out to him and was hoping to use his system. I plan to eliminate the large gauges and use just my Smartcraft gauge. He said getting the panel without the gauge cutouts wasn't available? He must not cut his panels in house.
    2008 Tr 21X- 2018 250 Mercury Pro XS 4S
    2B595479

  8. Member
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    Feb 2010
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    Culpeper, va
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    #8
    2006 TR21x brackets behind new dash for 9" TI2. Bought aluminum stock and bent to fit.

  9. Member
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    Aug 2021
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    Nottaway Va
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    #9
    dirt651, that looks pretty good right there, about what I expected I would end up with once I get there.

  10. Member
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    May 2011
    Location
    Chesapeake, VA
    Posts
    1,673
    #10
    I reinforced my dash when switching from 5” flush mount to a larger HDS on its gimbal. I fabricated an aluminum plate to stiffen the oem dash but did not need to add additional bracing. I believe you could simply add 2 additional braces parallel to the one triton employed for the same purpose.

    B51462B8-0897-44CE-8212-92D98ECE8C91.jpeg
    Lightning 6
    2007 TR-196DC

  11. Member
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    Aug 2021
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    Nottaway Va
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by dirt651 View Post
    2006 TR21x brackets behind new dash for 9" TI2. Bought aluminum stock and bent to fit.
    Quick question as I'm at this point currently. Did you add the extra bend for clearance or strength? I think mine could be done with one bend, 90ish degrees but I think the extra bend would make it more rigid.

  12. Member
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    Jun 2009
    Location
    Mandeville, Louisiana
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    #12
    I changed out my dash on my 2003 TR20 and reinforced it. Added aluminum strips across the top and bottom up and down and then secured those to the fiberglass under the dash. I changed out all the dash material as well. I have a 3/32” aluminum panel secured to the back of the fiberboard dash material as well. It’s solid now.

    AEBFE79F-8987-47C8-9CE8-612E771569BF.jpeg
    Original dash

    3CB38814-D418-4913-B55F-96E0DCB98B86.jpeg
    Brackets

    496ACE81-9150-495D-B043-F0B9843AC30F.jpeg
    New dash

  13. Member
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    Dec 2004
    Location
    Woodland, CA
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    778
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by doyce View Post
    I changed out my dash on my 2003 TR20 and reinforced it. Added aluminum strips across the top and bottom up and down and then secured those to the fiberglass under the dash. I changed out all the dash material as well. I have a 3/32” aluminum panel secured to the back of the fiberboard dash material as well. It’s solid now.
    You don't happen to still have that old combo RPM/trim gauge do you? I could really use it if it works, let me know if you want to sell it.

    NoCAL
    2004TR-21X/2015 250 ProXS
    2B112175

  14. Member
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    Jun 2009
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    Mandeville, Louisiana
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by NoCAL View Post
    You don't happen to still have that old combo RPM/trim gauge do you? I could really use it if it works, let me know if you want to sell it.

    NoCAL
    I do still have it. It’s not the original. I cracked the glass on the original and bought this one new. Stil have the original with the cracked glass and it works as well.

    Sorry. Misread your post. I do have it and it is the original. The speedo and gas gauge is the one I replaced. I have it as well. All work.
    Last edited by doyce; 12-23-2022 at 02:32 PM. Reason: Misread about which gauge

  15. Member
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    Feb 2010
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    Culpeper, va
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by XXXLTRP View Post
    Quick question as I'm at this point currently. Did you add the extra bend for clearance or strength? I think mine could be done with one bend, 90ish degrees but I think the extra bend would make it more rigid.
    Mainly clearance.

  16. Member
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    Aug 2021
    Location
    Nottaway Va
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    392
    #16
    Ok, I have mine mostly done. Just have to run ethernet cable and put the switch panel back in. I had to move two gauges down to the ignition panel. I put the fuel and volts there, as I don't feel teh need to see those while driving. I moved the trim and water pressure down next to the jackplate gauge. Makes sense in my head at least. I already had previously made an aluminum plate for the dash, but had cut a hole to flush mount the older HDS 7. I cut and fit another plate to cover the hole from that and the two gauges, used a BBT mount and made/ fitted another bracket to secure it under the windshield to the fiberglass similar to dirt651's design. Here's what I came up with, its plenty sturdy. The first pic is what I started with.. the rest are the new versions.

    AM6.jpgHelm2.jpgHelm4.jpgHelm3.jpg

  17. Member
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    Aug 2021
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    Nottaway Va
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    #17
    I'd like to say I aced the bracket, but I can't bend it acculturate enough without a metal brake. I made it 2x to get what I liked. The difference was I needed to bend it and cut it first, then drill the holes for the BBT bracket last. Everything is through bolted with stainless steel, 1/4x20 hardware with washers and elastic stop nuts.
    Helm5.jpgHelm7.jpgHelm8.jpgHelm6.jpgHelm9.jpg

  18. Member
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    Aug 2021
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    Nottaway Va
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    #18
    Got it all wrapped up, bonus..it all works.

    L1.jpgL2.jpgL3.jpgL5.jpg

  19. Member
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    Jul 2015
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    Toronto, Ontario, CANADA
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    #19
    Nice work, looks good
    1995 Ranger 482v
    2013 Mercury Pro XS 175hp

    2008 Triton Tr-21x HP

  20. Member
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    Mar 2008
    Location
    Belton, SC
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    368
    #20
    20221229_140319.jpg20221229_140326.jpg20230107_170918.jpg
    Seems solid so far. Getting ready to put it all back together. Thanks for the photos to point me in the right direction.
    2008 Tr 21X- 2018 250 Mercury Pro XS 4S
    2B595479

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