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  1. #1
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    Need electrical Help w Suzuki 115

    DF 115 Suzuki won’t start or trim
    Started by leaving lights and stereo on all night. Battery went dead. I put a charger on and set it to jump start to try to start the engine. Did nothing not even turn it over. I then replaced battery since it was old. Now the engine isn’t getting power nor does the trim work. Everything else on the boat besides the motor and trim work. I get tone when I turn the key, I tested the relays in the fuse box on the engine as well as checked the fuses. I’ve checked every fuse I could find. Under the console, next to battery, and in engine compartment in the fuse box. All look good. I’m wondering if I burnt a fuse or something when trying to jump start it. Although I can’t find anything.

    Any guidance is much appreciated.

    Thank you
    Jay

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    #2
    Did you by chance forget to hook up the ECM power supply cable? There's usually a white wire (I think) that has a fuse on it that connects to the battery. Also, I'd get a multimeter and check to see if you are getting voltage to your engine. Not sure exactly where, but I assume that there's a starting solenoid there where the main power cable runs from the battery to the engine.

    https://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc...l.asp?ID=23456
    Last edited by booter; 11-29-2022 at 01:45 PM.
    2018 Bass Cat Lynx w/Suzuki 250SS.

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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by booter View Post
    Did you by chance forget to hook up the ECM power supply cable? There's usually a white wire (I think) that has a fuse on it that connects to the battery.
    just had another set of eyes look it over. Tone when the key goes on, gages work, everything but trim and engine. Tested the relays on the engine and all fuses eveeywhere. kiling me

  4. Member
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    #4
    You by chance don't have another kill switch somewhere do you? Usually when turn the key on, you can hear the fuel pump prime itself, so can you hear that? Usually the tone comes from the front, I think. I'd make sure that you are getting power to the engine first and it's not something stupid like a loose cable when you try turning it over.
    2018 Bass Cat Lynx w/Suzuki 250SS.

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    #5
    no other switch I can see. I'm getting power to the engine. It has to be after that. Reason I think theres some fuse or something on the engine I'm missing. I turn the key and the meter reads 12.4 to the main breaker on the engine.

  6. Member
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by codfishhead View Post
    no other switch I can see. I'm getting power to the engine. It has to be after that. Reason I think theres some fuse or something on the engine I'm missing. I turn the key and the meter reads 12.4 to the main breaker on the engine.
    Do you have two wires connected to your positive battery terminal? There should be a white wire with a fuse that connects directly from the battery to the ECM on your engine. I'd make sure that got connected on your battery. Without that wire connected, it won't start.
    Last edited by booter; 11-29-2022 at 02:33 PM.
    2018 Bass Cat Lynx w/Suzuki 250SS.

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    #7
    Theres only three red wires. They all have fuses and are all good. The main line is red with a 30amp fuse. other two are 20 amp. I checked every fuse I could find. Thia is making me nuts

    Also just tested the main replays on the engone. Open and close fine. I am geting over 12v from all the fuse plugs and relays. It has to be after the main fuse box on the eng. I checked every fuse under the console. Theres no main fuses uop there. Noty even one 30amp fuse.

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    #8
    Theres only three red wires. They all have fuses and are all good. The main line is red with a 30amp fuse. other two are 20 amp. I checked every fuse I could find. This is making me nuts

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    #9
    Some dealers/installers connected the “white wire” to the positive post on the starter motor rather than run an extension thru the rigging tube and connect it to the battery. Its a very bad idea to do it this way because it exposes the ecu to severe voltage spikes when the engine is started…

    So take the cowl off and have a look at the wire connections to the starter motor, see if there is a large fuse holder nearby there. If you do find it there and the fuse is blown, obviously replace the fuse and if the engine then starts, its highly recommended to do what should have been done in the first place and run it back to the battery and connect there.

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    #10
    Let's see. All the trouble started when the battery went dead. When you replaced the battery did you hook it up backward by mistake once? Most relays and other things like light bulbs don't care about polarity.
    On the two Suzy's I had there is a white wire that took positive battery juice to and from the motor, it has a powerful fuse in it, like 70 amps if I'm not mistaken. Anyhow, if the trim and tilt doesn't work, you have lost the main power supply some where. This could be where.

    As far as the wire connnected to the solenoid that should go to the battery +, when a solenoid or relay energises it takes 12 volts in to close it, but sends a voltage spike that can exceed 400 volts back into the wiring when it de-energises or opens. That can really upset modules.

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    #11
    UPDATE:
    Starting back at the battery and tested voltage. It was found at the starter when the key was turned on the voltage dropped. After pulling what looked like brand new battey cables we found in the middle of the cable under the boat there was a cut in the casing and it burnt up. changed the cable and now getting a 4-2 Error code on the dash. I think this is the neutral switch. Even though the dash shows when I take it out or put in into neutral. Changing the neutral swicth next.

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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by codfishhead View Post
    UPDATE:
    Starting back at the battery and tested voltage. It was found at the starter when the key was turned on the voltage dropped. After pulling what looked like brand new battey cables we found in the middle of the cable under the boat there was a cut in the casing and it burnt up. changed the cable and now getting a 4-2 Error code on the dash. I think this is the neutral switch. Even though the dash shows when I take it out or put in into neutral. Changing the neutral swicth next.
    4:2 code is a CKP sensor, not a neutral switch. Crankshaft position sensor.

    You said that the dash (gauge presumably) shows the shift position correctly when you take it in and out of gear - this proves that the switch is working correctly, so there is no reason to spend money changing it. Its a simple switch, on/off. If the ecu sees the signal and shows it on the gauge, then its working.

    Check the wiring connections to the CKP sensor and the ecu.
    Last edited by Moonlighter; 12-07-2022 at 03:23 PM.