200 E Tec HO LowerUnit Oil Change, need some tips

[BigBass044]

Hello All, I usually just have my Dealer do My Maintenance but they are pretty booked up, every 100 hrs I have them Change the LU oil and Fuel filter, basic things. I am pretty mechanically capable and was wondering What exactly Am I going to need to change the LU oil in my 2012 E-Tec 200 HO. The Lower is a Magnum II if that matters. If possible a few links to the specific products would be fantastic. I saw there is HPF pro which is what my dealer has always used in my LU and now there is a XPS gear lube, not sure if they are for the G2 or if there’s a benefit or not. I tried searching for the Little white Washers as I would like to purchase the oem ones but I couldn’t find them. Thanks guys

[Fireball]

I have used Leaders RPM Shop and do recommend them. Also Crowley Marine
https://leadersrpmshop.com/johnson-e...778754-778754/

https://www.google.com/search?q=5011...hrome&ie=UTF-8

https://www.google.com/search?q=0311...hrome&ie=UTF-8

[Bighare2]

Here is a link to find a service manual. See page 36 in the 2012 manual
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...kSfjnBGwA-HzsB
Thanks to the ETEC owners group.
you can also fine information for gear lube service in the owner guide located here. https://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/...a-45c705bf9e49

HPF Pro is superceded to the XPS gear lube.

[XingEyeballs]

Here is a link to find a service manual. See page 36 in the 2012 manual
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...kSfjnBGwA-HzsB
Thanks to the ETEC owners group.
you can also fine information for gear lube service in the owner guide located here. https://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/...a-45c705bf9e49

HPF Pro is superceded to the XPS gear lube.

I didn’t know this last part, so going forward we’ll need to be looking for XPS gear lube and the HPF Pro is being phased out?

To the OP, maintenance is pretty straight forward once you have the supplies. I typically order through LeadersRPM, Wholesale marine, or Crowley depending on inventory. I believe your lower is the same as mine and you’ll need two quarts of lube(takes about 1 and a third roughly). They sell the white rings and the pumps, just make sure it’s the right threads for OMC/Evinrude. Make sure you pull the prop at the same time and inspect the shaft/seal along with checking the water pick ups, just a good time to get a look at it all.

The link to the manual Bighare posted is very helpful doing maintenance yourself.

[BigBass044]

Great information thank you. So I should be able to pick up some XPS HPF Pro and be just fine? Is it still the same as The Regular HPF pro, I’m guessing they just changed the packaging.

[DaleH]

TIP – A picture shows all ... BEFORE draining out the old oil, clean/wipe the lower leg and add a strip of blue painting tape behind the oil drain screw. This allows the old oil to follow the tape edge out and drip/drain STRAIGHT down into your collection bucket. No mess !

Oil.jpg

[BigBass044]

Awesome tip thank you, Another question… do I have to purchase new drain plugs or can I re use the old ones?

[Bighare2]

Yes use the old drain screws. Replace the sealing washers.
the change to XPS branding occurred in 2019. Strictly a packaging change. The fluids are the same

[JR19]

Hello All, I usually just have my Dealer do My Maintenance but they are pretty booked up, every 100 hrs I have them Change the LU oil and Fuel filter, basic things. I am pretty mechanically capable and was wondering What exactly Am I going to need to change the LU oil in my 2012 E-Tec 200 HO. The Lower is a Magnum II if that matters. If possible a few links to the specific products would be fantastic. I saw there is HPF pro which is what my dealer has always used in my LU and now there is a XPS gear lube, not sure if they are for the G2 or if there’s a benefit or not. I tried searching for the Little white Washers as I would like to purchase the oem ones but I couldn’t find them. Thanks guys

I'm going to give advice with the assumption it is for someone who has never done this and may not know exactly what the steps are. I will also add that with your statement of you saying your mechanically inclined and capable I think you should be fine.

Good advice has been given so far but I would like to add a few things for people who may have never changed lower unit fluid and may not know what function each screw hole has or the order of how things are done. The top screw hole is a vent hole. When draining removal of the top screw will released any vacuum, thus allowing it to drain more easily. The bottom screw hole has two purposes. One purpose is its the drain hole and second is its also the hole used to fill the system. As previously stated you already know to put new washers on both screws. When filling hopefully you have a pump that's attached to the jug. Screw the threaded part of the pump into the bottom hole. With the lower unit level pump fluid until it starts to seep out the top hole. While your pumping the fluid in through the bottom with the top vent hole open it is pushing out any air pockets that might be inside the gearcase. Once fluid starts to seep out the top vent hole insert the top plug. When you unscrew the pump have the bottom screw ready to go in. You may lose a teaspoon or less of fluid and that's no big deal. If you do not put in the top vent plug screw before you remove the pump fluid will come rushing out.

A couple other things I will add is the upper and lower screw is magnetized. It is normal to see very small metal shavings. What is a problem is if they are chucks or fragments on the magnetized screw. If your mechanically incline you should be able to know the difference between what metal looks like from normal gear wear as opposed to metal chunks that are a problem. Also don't be alarmed if the color of the drained fluid is greyish. I guarantee it will not be a golden blond color like the fluid you just pumped in. I like to save mine into a good clean plastic jug. I typically save a empty clear jug that cranberry juice comes in. I'll clean it and cut off the top and wipe it dry. I use the tape method like previously mentioned but I will use 3-4 layers of electrical tape. The reason I use a clear clean plastic bottle is because oil is actually less dense than water so if it has any water in the oil the water will be on bottom and the oil on top after it sits for a prolonged period. I leave it sitting in a secure area for a few days and see if there is any separation. I have never had mine separate but I have seen water in a lower unit before. I help a friend change his lower unit fluid one day and as soon as the drain was removed the first amount that came out definitely look like it had water in it. I recommended him to take it to a shop and have it pressure tested. Once pressure tested at a shop they confirmed he had a leak. Paying attention when draining helped him catch something before it got to the point of causing a failure.


Sorry for such a long reply. I just wanted to be as detailed as I could.

[ChampioNman]

Never touch a Phillips head screw on an John/Rude lower unit. No reason to ask why just don't do it.