Motor Trim power - switched or not?

[78Staff]

So, in replacing my AGM's with Lithiums in my ZX225, I've noticed my Motor Trim power is hot all the time - before (unless I am just mis-remembering) I thought the trim only worked when I flipped the Master Battery switch on.

Simple enough to TS, I have the main power lead from the motor connected directly to battery pos and neg. But maybe I should have the pos lead going through the master switch instead? I took pics of the wiring connections with my phone before I started, but now I can't find the pics lol. I am guessing it was through the switch and I just put it back incorrectly... Would also explain why my pos terminal seems smaller/shorter - that thick a$$ lug probably wasn't there before ;).

Anyway, it seems like yes Trim should be switched, yes? To prevent unwanted/accidental trim from occurring somehow ie when trailering etc?

[McQuaig]

The trim switch on motor works all the time. The bow trim switch works only when panel power switch is on.

[78Staff]

OK so when I leave motor harness direct to battery terminals - switch on Motor works all the time, as does the throttle lever switch. The turn signal trim lever and bow switch do not work unless I flip the Battery Switch on (which has main panel power and PP power connected to it).

If I go back to what was originally setup (not sure if Skeeter wired it this way or the previous owner), I put pos lead of the motor harness on the Blue Sea switch (along with pos for main panel and pp pumps). This way, no trim switch works unless I have moved switch to on of course.

Not sure if there is a right way or wrong way? I wonder what the "factory" setup is from Skeeter. TBH I prefer the direct connection ie motor switch always on for convenience. But if there is a safety issue doing it this way... I thought I read about keeping trim motor on switch to prevent unwanted/accidental trimming while trailering... unless I am thinking of something else.

[ksubasser24]

On my zxr nothing works when the master power is off except the TM since it is on it's own breaker.

[McQuaig]

Any boat I've owned had the engine's cable attached direct to battery, so motor and shifter switch worked all the time, and it makes the most solid contact possible for what needs it most...the engine. I can't see any reason why not to leave it this way. It's convenient for working around motor, instead of having to set another switch every time you need to bump the trim up or down. Also, this way your auto bilge pump (float or sensor) will always work....there's no point having an auto bilge pump if it's not powered all the time boat is on water (overnight at dock especially).

[78Staff]

My auto bilge is actually a separate wire, but yes it is of course on the battery terminal. I've got it currently wired as you suggested, Motor harness directly to battery. I agree it is convenient for working around motor, trimming for getting in/out of garage, etc.

Not sure why it was wired to the switch originally - as I mentioned not sure if Skeeter does it that way from factory, or if the previous owner put it that way. Maybe some other Skeeter ZX owners can confirm.