Metalflake, gelcoat (with and without wax) sequences

[spinkick63]

Hello all

I have an 2007 Skeeter 20i that was not well treated before it was mine. Metalflake areas above the rub rail are quite faded and to make matters worse, someone apparently tried wet sanding, went to hard/far, and cut into the flake. :|

The areas to repaint/regel (whatever the proper term is) are blue metalflake and two different silver metal flakes:

gunwhale.jpg

Note the missing decals. I already have replacements, but need to get the painting done first. Also, I already have the metalflake.

The question... based on all I have read and videos watched on the matter, it appears coat 1 is clear gelcoat w/o wax with metalflake. Step 2 is clear gelcoat w/o wax. Step 3 is clear gelcoat WITH wax. Does anyone know if this sounds anywhere close to correct?

The secondary question can I do it this way? Step 1: mask off where I can spray the dark silver metalflake. Let it cure/dry. Step 2: Mask off where I can the blue metalflake. Let it cure/dry. Step 3: Mask off where I can spray the bright silver metalflake. Let it cure/dry. BTW, all previous steps were clear gelcoat without wax. Step 4: spray all new metalflake with clear gelcoat without wax. Let it cure/dry. Step 5: spray all new metalflake with clear gelcoat with wax. Let it cure/dry.

Of course I left off any wet sanding, blending, polishing, etc. but it is part of the deal.

Does anyone know if masking/painter tape can be applied to a gelcoat that has cured but did not have wax? Or is that bad juju?

Thanks for any info

[rojoguio]

More later but skip the wax! Duratec High Gloss Additive is all you want to use. Wax is a contaminate and depending on how much correction/repair is needed you may end up needing more material to level the Gelcoat. Last thing you want is wax in the pores or voids between the flake causing problems on overcoat.

[spinkick63]

You have my undivided attention. I look forward to more info. I'm 100% rookie at this part. Thank you!

[crank68]

Duratec is your friend …. As stated above.

[rojoguio]

Respectfully speaking, you are not the first to get this Idea. If you have worked in a environment that at least exposed you in how flake work is done you would not be considering tackling a flake repair. I'm assuming your end product is expected to look good, after all this is purely cosmetic work not structural. The front end investment in the cheap equipment ( 1 off grade stuff ) will set you back quite a bit. Flake gets everywhere! By the way your questions are written I would ask you to consider having it done at a shop, consider a wrap, or just live with it. The very first thing you have to do is get enough clear on to seal over the pores in the areas where sand paper cut the flake. That would at least stabilize what you have now. I had a 1994 Skeeter in my shop yesterday installing electronics, garage kept, that needs a polishing just to clean off the beginning of oxidation. I pulled out my Rupes Bigfoot and hit the aft area of the cap with fine Rupes polish and water to show the owner the oxidized gelcoat even changes color. Like today's car headlights, it turns yellow or off color, your boat has to have that yellow on it too in places. Well that stuff is softer than the material on the underside and needs to be completely removed before any other work can begin. This is not a DIY project, very few boat shops will even offer the service. It's a very specialized talent to do it where the final repair flake matches. I use a Dry Flake Gun for repairs, I spray clear gelcoat on, dust on the flake, blow it flat with a air gun, spray gelcoat over. The HVLP gun I use has a 2.5 tip, I start with Duratec High Gloss Additive at a 25% beginning ratio to a 65-75% final "Shine" coat. If you spray on "Shine" to start with all the sanding work is greatly reduced. Using Dry Flake the amount of clear gelcoat to bury is much less, remember you still have to build up enough clear on top after getting "To Level" so your gelcoat is actually Fixed. Unfortunately YouTube video posters make videos for money, to sell a service, their ego, etc, after having watched several videos myself I can testify first hand it should not be your only reference material resource. I post to this website to provide reference material to guys just like you to help them with their DIY project. When I'm gone these posts will still be helping others while my ashes are feeding the fish. If you do decide to go forward start a thread here with the good and bad to help others who want to do this. I will answer any questions I can to help.

P.S. don't beat me up for being direct, no way to sugar coat this answer.

[spinkick63]

Hell no! I appreciate the candor and information. Absolutely I do.

There's no doubt I should let someone that has a clue do this, but it simply depends on the charge. Quick example... my seats have a few tears and need reupholstering. Worst quote was $2100. I can buy brand new seats for less than that. This is an example where I do NOT have the tools to do the work if I wanted to, so I'll live with it for now.

As for videos, if they are selling something or there's a charge, I move on. I have also referenced forums and manufacturer websites for both gelcoat and metalflake. I haven't decided to venture down this alley way just yet. I'm still gathering all information that I can. I will get a quote from a shop that knows gelcoat/metalflake eventually.

Thanks again for the info.

[APS]

you can do all 3 colors in a day in a heated shop. If you don't have any painting experience, it's not gonna look that good. Flake work done right is an art. I never add wax or pva, always use duratech on last coat only. Do one color and once it's dry, tape up with blue tape and plastic sheet. They sell it at home depot or lowes. Paper will stick to uncured gel. Spray next color and do the same down the line. Once all the flake is down, you'll have to spray straight clear over all of it, thick enough so that they're all level and mix duratec 50/50 in the last coat. Now you have a bunch of flake that sitting up 1/8 inch higher than the solid next to it. You can either live with that unsightly mess, or spray the surrounding white to bring it up to the flake level. Be sure to post pics if you decide to try it.

[spinkick63]

APS. Thank you much. I was also looking for the order of colors. No doubt I'll have to go into the white part of the gunwhale. If I do foolishly take on this challenge, I will follow-up. It can't be much worse than it already is. Confirming the painter's (blue/green) won't stick to the cured/dried gel w/o duratec?

Thanks again to all

[rojoguio]

It's always a more involved project than expected. As stated above, you still have a buildup above the background color. Using a dry flake gun, blowing the flake level, lowers the buildup but you just can't avoid the issue. I will be posting the flake repair on my new project a little 15ft Skeeter Strada F80 soon.

[spinkick63]

More involved... I could go into my previous "gifted" boat that qualifies as "more than expected...and more expensive". :) Thanks again

[Scott S.]

Fineline tape is what they use in the mold, it handles gel coat. Another good to bad ass tape is flash tape, it's just not as easy to confrom to corners like fineline.

[APS]

APS. Thank you much. I was also looking for the order of colors. No doubt I'll have to go into the white part of the gunwhale. If I do foolishly take on this challenge, I will follow-up. It can't be much worse than it already is. Confirming the painter's (blue/green) won't stick to the cured/dried gel w/o duratec?

Thanks again to all

Yes you can use the blue painters tape on gel after it's kicked. Time depends on how warm it is in the shop. Don't over catalyze the gel trying to speed up the process. Masking paper will stick to the uncured gel so either cover it with the thin plastic or tape. I use the blue tape on the lines and yellow everywhere else. Fineline on corners but you have to keep an eye on edges rolling up. Once all your flake work is done sand it down almost to where it can be buffed, then you'll know how high to build up your surrounding gel so it's all level. I have alot of pics on my fb page apsfiberglass if you wanna see the stages.

[spinkick63]

Will look into fineline and flash tape.

Yes... will look at the FB page.

Thanks to all