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  1. #1
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    Replace VAULT bearings?

    My trailer is 11 years old. I noticed that my Vault bearing caps are pretty low. While I have not noticed any leaks I understand when your ends caps are no longer proud they need serviced. I have replaced, cleaned and repacked a lot of the older trailer bearings. While the Vault is similar it is not exactly the same. Does any one have and tips or advice on servicing this type. For example does the kits include the bearings? Should you replace or just clean and repack the old bearings? Is this process pretty simple or should you leave if to the pros?

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    #2
    If it hasnt got hot bearings are probably fine but why tear it apart and not change them? Need seals and spindle sleeves and one tube of Vault grease per axle.Also easier to replace Vault caps then reuse.

  3. Member Bill Reynolds's Avatar
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    #3
    It may be the angle of the pic, but your center cap looks about like mine.
    I would not break it open without a specific reason, like a leak or bearing slack.
    In the same vein, I would not replace the bearings without a reason. These bearings are bathed in grease and wear is improbable, so I would do a visual inspection and only replace if you find a problem.
    If you do decide to open it up, these instructions will be helpful but be sure to clean the cap good before reinstalling and use locktite as it recommends.


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  4. Member ifishinxs's Avatar
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    #4
    I had vault hubs on my last Skeeter trailer. 10 yrs and never touched them. If you don’t a have a seal leaking or excessive bearing play I wouldn’t touch them. The caps on my Skeeter hubs were not sticking up either.
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    #5
    Like others have said. If not leaking or not hot after a trip leave them alone.

  6. Member electritek's Avatar
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    #6
    If the vault cap is not protruding, the vault system as lost it's positive charge. It must have a positive charge in the bearing cavity to prevent water intrusion. Would suggest you inspect rear seals for any possible leakage. If you can't find any noticeable leakage you are in pretty good shape. Wiggle the tires for excess play. Knock off vault hub cap, adjust nut to remove excess play, install grease fitting in axle end, purge old Hybrid lube out with new hybrid lube. Reinstall cap with high temp RTV and you are good to go.


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    #7
    Use Red loctite to reinstall caps!

  8. Member
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    #8
    Here is the manual and filling instructions. I also have a list of parts and part numbers for all the necessary parts to service the hubs, using Timken bearings and seals.

    http://www.ezloader.com/images/20160912/54581863fe3004d34480aff144a42c8ed8d1cf09.pdf


    http://hltlimitedtrailers.com/wp-con...ult-7-8-09.pdf

  9. Member
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by electritek View Post
    If the vault cap is not protruding, the vault system as lost it's positive charge. It must have a positive charge in the bearing cavity to prevent water intrusion. Would suggest you inspect rear seals for any possible leakage. If you can't find any noticeable leakage you are in pretty good shape. Wiggle the tires for excess play. Knock off vault hub cap, adjust nut to remove excess play, install grease fitting in axle end, purge old Hybrid lube out with new hybrid lube. Reinstall cap with high temp RTV and you are good to go.
    I have rebuilt 2 vault hubs on a 2017. If you follow the instructions on filling the 1.980 bearing cap with grease to the line inside then the indicator cap does not come out very far. I added a little more grease so it’s above the line and it sticks out farther. I just received a new axle from Dexter and it already had the hubs on it and they barely stick out, which tells me that they only add grease to the line on the inside of the cap. I pushed on one of my caps that was sticking out indicating that it was pressurized and it pushed in on me, so they do stick if they get low on grease. I was also told by Dexter that you do not have to necessarily change the spindle sleeve unless it’s visibly damaged. The 2 hubs I rebuild last year I did not replace the sleeves.

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    #10
    Bearing covers stick when piston o-rings get damaged, fouled, or when hubs are low on hybrid oil. Since you have no leaks…..and they do not run hot, leave them alone. Hub temp is the principal indicator of hub issues…..I recommend checking hubs with a laser thermometer at every stop.
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  11. Scraps
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    #11
    Back in the days of the Ranger COOL hubs, I only ran into problems when I did "maintenance" that turned out to be unnecessary. Resist the temptation.
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  12. Member electritek's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by bgibson View Post
    Use Red loctite to reinstall caps!
    Red Loctite is for threaded connections. Loctite RC 609 is a retaining compound. I prefer high temp RTV.


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    #13
    They send red loctite with the Vault cap kit

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    #14
    My vault hubs on my single axle trailer will hit ten years old this coming spring. They are still performing perfectly but I've been thinking I should redo them as a preventive measure. However it seems the opinion here is if they are running cool and not leaking leave them alone. But I take a 1000 mile round trip to Canada each year and I worry about getting part way into it and have a seal start leaking. So I'm on the fence.

  15. Member tcesni's Avatar
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by gopherbuddy View Post
    My vault hubs on my single axle trailer will hit ten years old this coming spring. They are still performing perfectly but I've been thinking I should redo them as a preventive measure. However it seems the opinion here is if they are running cool and not leaking leave them alone. But I take a 1000 mile round trip to Canada each year and I worry about getting part way into it and have a seal start leaking. So I'm on the fence.
    I am in the same situation as you with an 8 year old trailer and I make 1 or 2 1500 mile round trips each year to Canada. I do now carry a Vault rebuild kit with me.
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  16. Member electritek's Avatar
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveBrabec View Post
    They send red loctite with the Vault cap kit
    That's because their engineers don't understand the difference between a thread locking compound, a retaining compound and an adhesive sealant!! Red and blue loctite are thread locking compounds. Loctite RC 609 is retaining compound. Red RTV is better as it's an adhesive sealant. Industrial Millwright here, I can tell you what products we use for different applications in industry for threaded fasteners, retaining compounds and adhesives/sealants. The vault cap is not threaded, why in the hell would you use a thread compound???


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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by electritek View Post
    That's because their engineers don't understand the difference between a thread locking compound, a retaining compound and an adhesive sealant!! Red and blue loctite are thread locking compounds. Loctite RC 609 is retaining compound. Red RTV is better as it's an adhesive sealant. Industrial Millwright here, I can tell you what products we use for different applications in industry for threaded fasteners, retaining compounds and adhesives/sealants. The vault cap is not threaded, why in the hell would you use a thread compound???
    I use the Loctite 641 Retaining compound on my Vault caps that was recommended. Am I better off using the high temp Permatex that is used on the grease seal? These Vault caps, at least on my trailer go on so tight I can’t see how they can come off, even if you didn’t use anything on them. The retaining compound is so thin and runny when you apply it to the cap I question how affective it is anyway.

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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by tcesni View Post
    I am in the same situation as you with an 8 year old trailer and I make 1 or 2 1500 mile round trips each year to Canada. I do now carry a Vault rebuild kit with me.
    Do you have a spring or torsion axle? I had to rebuild both right front and rear hubs on a 2017 trailer already. I did not catch the left rear on in time and had a bearing failure and ruined a spindle. I had to have a new axle that luckily Dexter covered. I also had to rebuild the left front hub that was leaking bad. All this is on a 2017 trailer. I also carry all the parts needed to repair a hub on the road, but when a bearing goes and destroys a spindle, all that stuff is useless.

  19. Member electritek's Avatar
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Erie660 View Post
    I use the Loctite 641 Retaining compound on my Vault caps that was recommended. Am I better off using the high temp Permatex that is used on the grease seal? These Vault caps, at least on my trailer go on so tight I can’t see how they can come off, even if you didn’t use anything on them. The retaining compound is so thin and runny when you apply it to the cap I question how affective it is anyway.
    The whole rebuild instructions/kit needs updated. They recommend retaining compound to install Vault cap,and send threadlocker compound in kit?? Rear seal needs a small smear of high temp RTV before installation. Vault cap needs a thin smear of high temp RTV before installation. They indicate Vault caps are not reusable, if you use retaining compound or threadlocker compound you have to beat the holy hell out of them for removal and they can't be reused.


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    #20
    Devil is in the details!