Golf...Questions for anyone who has been fitted for a driver

[coreynov902]

I've never been fitted for clubs and decided that before I put down a bunch of money to get fitted for everything I would try getting fitted for just my driver first and see how much of a difference it makes. The local fitter I'm going to use advertises free custom fitting for all new clubs so I am assuming I won't be spending anything extra for the actual fitting process. I'm going to be working with a $500-$600 max budget (I'd love to spend less than that but it seems like most new drivers are in that range now). Considering that getting a custom shaft can add hundreds of dollars (from what I've heard), what is going to be the best way to approach the fitting? Do I need to tell them my overall budget? Do I need to let them know that I'm willing to sacrifice elsewhere in order to get a better shaft? Do I just shut up and let them do what they do? I am just trying to not look like an idiot when I go to get fitted (I'll let my swing do that for me ). I'm also not wanting to get into that awkward situation where they fit me and then I learn after the fact that because of something like a shaft upgrade, my price is now $800 instead of what I planned to spend and I have to tell them that's more than I'm willing to spend.

[LTZ25]

Give us your age , handicap , current driver specs and tendencies and app. swing speed . and we can get you straightened out . Probably need a little more loft if you tend to slice like most regular folks do .

[Warrenroadie]

I've been fitted twice in my life. Once as young person and again approx. 5 years ago when I was 55. Don't remember much about my first fitting , but it was only for irons. Second fitting cost $200 was for every club and then was discounted from my iron purchase from that pro shop. IMO-definitely tell them your budget and be truthful what you are looking for in the fitting and new club or clubs. Being upfront is the best way to handle something like this. I was also not brand loyal and ended up with three different brands that fit my game, ability and wants. Calloway irons, one hybrid, 3 wood, Cobra driver and Scotty Cameron putter. I do remember my driver shaft cost more than the Cobra club head. I ended up trying 5 or 6 different driver shafts. One last thing, get all your clubs balanced with the same swing weight. Sorry for the rambling. Hope this helps.

[coreynov902]

I'm 45, my handicap is around 15-20 (don't know for sure since I only golf in a 2-person best-shot weekly league and haven't played a round by myself for at least a year or two). I'm currently using a Callaway X2 Hot driver that I purchased a few years ago. It is stock with the standard graphite stiff flex shaft. No idea on swing speed. I only golf once a week from late spring through late summer and that's about it. I generally hit my driver shots very high and I think I have way too much spin as well. I believe my driver is currently at the 10.5 degree setting and I believe I have adjusted the hosel to the draw setting to compensate for a slice.

[coreynov902]

I've been fitted twice in my life. Once as young person and again approx. 5 years ago when I was 55. Don't remember much about my first fitting , but it was only for irons. Second fitting cost $200 was for every club and then was discounted from my iron purchase from that pro shop. IMO-definitely tell them your budget and be truthful what you are looking for in the fitting and new club or clubs. Being upfront is the best way to handle something like this. I was also not brand loyal and ended up with three different brands that fit my game, ability and wants. Calloway irons, one hybrid, 3 wood, Cobra driver and Scotty Cameron putter. I do remember my driver shaft cost more than the Cobra club head. I ended up trying 5 or 6 different driver shafts. One last thing, get all your clubs balanced with the same swing weight. Sorry for the rambling. Hope this helps.

Thanks! This is the type of information I'm looking for. I am also not brand loyal and honestly could care less if I have the ugliest club on the course as long as it improves my drives.

[200xp]

There is no substitute for a club fitting. I have been through three of them thus far. One for irons, then one for driver, 3 wood and a hybrid and then a putter fitting. I did not mention a budget before we started, but I guess I can see where that would be beneficial.
Yes, there are very expensive shafts on the market, but a fitter will not go that route unless specifically requested.

Enjoy the process. The amount of data they collect is impressive. The real fun is when they start dialing in the club head, shaft length, lie angle, loft angle, shaft weight, shaft flex and shaft kick point to fit your swing and you can see the results.

[coreynov902]

There is no substitute for a club fitting. I have been through three of them thus far. One for irons, then one for driver, 3 wood and a hybrid and then a putter fitting. I did not mention a budget before we started, but I guess I can see where that would be beneficial.
Yes, there are very expensive shafts on the market, but a fitter will not go that route unless specifically requested.

Enjoy the process. The amount of data they collect is impressive. The real fun is when they start dialing in the club head, shaft length, lie angle, loft angle, shaft weight, shaft flex and shaft kick point to fit your swing and you can see the results.

I appreciate your input. I have watched a few videos on driver fittings and was amazed at the number of data points they collect from the launch monitor. I have to say I am looking forward to seeing how much better a fitted driver feels and hopefully seeing the end results being a much improved shot.

[barbarian]

I would not mention budget. Most driver fittings are $100-150, but will roll it into your purchase. And I expect you to see improvement. I would let them know your priority- distance or accuracy. Sure, we all want to hit it 300+ and 12/14 fairways. But realistically not happening. Turn your slice into a cut, no lost balls and lower your trajectory a bit and get more roll and wind penetration and in the 240-250 range and you should be gold and headed to a 12 HC. Honestly I’d ask about last years model (example Callaway Epic) with great shaft. Way inside your budget

[coreynov902]

I would not mention budget. Most driver fittings are $100-150, but will roll it into your purchase. And I expect you to see improvement. I would let them know your priority- distance or accuracy. Sure, we all want to hit it 300+ and 12/14 fairways. But realistically not happening. Turn your slice into a cut, no lost balls and lower your trajectory a bit and get more roll and wind penetration and in the 240-250 range and you should be gold and headed to a 12 HC. Honestly I’d ask about last years model (example Callaway Epic) with great shaft. Way inside your budget

Thanks! I wondered about trying to time my fitting so that the 2023 models would be out but yet the 2022 models would still be widely available, but I have no idea when the 2023 models actually debut at retailers and golf shops. Because of the way my shots are right now, I feel like I could gain a significant amount of distance if I get my trajectory down quite a bit, especially when there's any wind blowing in my face. The course I play 99% of the time is pretty forgiving on most holes if you slice or hook your shot some, but I definitely would like to see more consistency in hitting the ball straight.

[RonCat]

Being open with the fitter is your best approach IMO, then they will know better in what direction to take you.

During a fitting around 2010 I got there early and the guy was just finishing up with another customer, and I could tell the fitter was frustrated. He started by asking me my objective with new clubs and I told him hit it straighter more consistently and little extra yardage would be good to. He had a sigh of relief on his face and said the last guy, probably a 25 handicap, no matter what he told him, had to have the same clubs as Tiger Woods. So the guy fit him for a set, full well knowing that the guys game will get no better and he (the fitter) would be blamed.

[Dylevan]

For the most part, (man this sounds sexual), a head is a head is a head. Its all about the shaft. Get the right shaft and you will definitely see some game improvement. I am a 3 handicap and have been fitted for the last 20 years on all my clubs, including wedges.
Shafts in all your clubs can make all the difference in the world. If you are able to go to a fitter that has access to hundreds of shafts, that is where you should go. Some places will only try and fit you for the stock shafts that come with said driver. That is not a true fitting.

[rid 05 198]

Pick up a different hammer and you can still drive the nail....

[rid 05 198]

Spend your time and money at the range. Hit 5000 balls a week for five years.

[JohnnyO]

The only thing that has changed with driver heads in the last 5 years is the weight. Technology has not changed, As stated earlier, find a head you like and then invest in a very nice shaft. You can still find 2020 and 2021 new club heads.

[BP in ME]

I would not mention budget. Most driver fittings are $100-150, but will roll it into your purchase. And I expect you to see improvement. I would let them know your priority- distance or accuracy. Sure, we all want to hit it 300+ and 12/14 fairways. But realistically not happening. Turn your slice into a cut, no lost balls and lower your trajectory a bit and get more roll and wind penetration and in the 240-250 range and you should be gold and headed to a 12 HC. Honestly I’d ask about last years model (example Callaway Epic) with great shaft. Way inside your budget

Not sure what you mean about the cost of the fitting. Is this based on having a club pro do the fitting? My BIL is a traveling fitter for Taylormade and I'd be surprised if they're rolling that much cost into the clubs he sells. He goes to country clubs, golf shows, etc. I'm going to see him tomorrow so I'll have to ask.
I'm a fan of the Calloway drivers and, like you said, they are pretty reasonable if you get last year's model. Carried an ERC for many years and finally replaced it with a Rogue on an Evenflow Blue shaft. All I have to do is put the club face on the ball and it'll do the rest. The first part is key. I can get the 300+ but I don't have the 12/14

[492slayer]

Corey, I read your post and the advice of those who replied. One of the first things that come to mind is you did not say what your current game is. Are you a casual one round a month kind of guy or do you play a few rounds a week? What is your current driver, shaft and tendency when driving.... hook, fade, slice, etc. The reason I ask is your wallet may thank you before you drop $500+ on a new driver. I hate seeing people dump big money on a driver then find it doesn't do anything for their game. Let me explain my comment... let's say right now you have a driver that is 5 years old with a non adjustable hosel and a shaft that is regular or stiff flex. You have a decent swing speed of 95-100mph and you drive the ball (with roll) 250 yards on a good day. A fancy driver with a custom shaft might get you another 10 yards on a good day. What I mean by this is that the laws of physics, aerodynamics and the golf gods will limit your drives based on swing speed, ball compression and how you make face contact with the ball. In essence, if your swing speed isn't above 110mph, you can forget about the 280-300+ yard drives you see the pros getting. My swingspeed is 103-105mph and I typically hit the ball very straight and my contact is pretty consistent on the face of my driver. I had my Ping G410 Driver fit with an X-stiff shaft 2 years ago and my average drive is 247 yRds according to Arrcos golf. The driver I had prior was a Ping G5 with stiff shaft. It was 15 years old and aside from being able to adjust the fade/draw and loft of the club, I gained less than 10 yards per drive. I bought the G410 instead of the newest G425 as it was $120 cheaper being one year out of the "latest greatest" My ultimate point is don't think you need to drop a bunch of money. You really can't buy your game unless you are playing with a driver that is totally wrong for you. I've played Ping clubs for years and last year decided to treat myself to new I59 irons and Pro wedges. My previous irons were I3+ that were 20 years old. I am a 8-10 handicap, and the new clubs cut my scores by maybe 1-3 strokes a round. The biggest gain if getting a custom shaft will be your shot dispersion tightening up. But unless you are consistently shooting in the 70's, id go with a factory offered shaft and save the money for a putter or lessons. I hope all works out for you. And don't be lured by promises of a radical improvement to your game. Remember the adage "Drive for show, putt for dough"

[Yellow Fever]

There is no substitute for a club fitting. I have been through three of them thus far. One for irons, then one for driver, 3 wood and a hybrid and then a putter fitting. I did not mention a budget before we started, but I guess I can see where that would be beneficial.
Yes, there are very expensive shafts on the market, but a fitter will not go that route unless specifically requested.

Enjoy the process. The amount of data they collect is impressive. The real fun is when they start dialing in the club head, shaft length, lie angle, loft angle, shaft weight, shaft flex and shaft kick point to fit your swing and you can see the results.

What he said....if you think about it golf is the hardest game to learn and playing with ill fitting equipment won't help. Also once you get your clubs it is a cheap investment if you hang on to them,the more you use them the less the cost per round. The club fitter at our course has a saying. Would i buy a coat that didn't fit because it was on sale?

[barbarian]

Not sure what you mean about the cost of the fitting. Is this based on having a club pro do the fitting? My BIL is a traveling fitter for Taylormade and I'd be surprised if they're rolling that much cost into the clubs he sells.

Many places around Houston advertise the $100-150 fitting cost and friends who have gone said they rolled that into a purchase (probably with a minimum price tag). A big thing around here is several places are popping up in strip centers with simulators and they give lessons all day every day. And they sell clubs. My guess is the fitting is the loss leader to get people in, sell them a club, and get them to come back for lessons. Heck they even sell 'range' memberships where you can go and hit balls in their simulators.

[coreynov902]

Corey, I read your post and the advice of those who replied. One of the first things that come to mind is you did not say what your current game is. Are you a casual one round a month kind of guy or do you play a few rounds a week? What is your current driver, shaft and tendency when driving.... hook, fade, slice, etc. The reason I ask is your wallet may thank you before you drop $500+ on a new driver. I hate seeing people dump big money on a driver then find it doesn't do anything for their game. Let me explain my comment... let's say right now you have a driver that is 5 years old with a non adjustable hosel and a shaft that is regular or stiff flex. You have a decent swing speed of 95-100mph and you drive the ball (with roll) 250 yards on a good day. A fancy driver with a custom shaft might get you another 10 yards on a good day. What I mean by this is that the laws of physics, aerodynamics and the golf gods will limit your drives based on swing speed, ball compression and how you make face contact with the ball. In essence, if your swing speed isn't above 110mph, you can forget about the 280-300+ yard drives you see the pros getting. My swingspeed is 103-105mph and I typically hit the ball very straight and my contact is pretty consistent on the face of my driver. I had my Ping G410 Driver fit with an X-stiff shaft 2 years ago and my average drive is 247 yRds according to Arrcos golf. The driver I had prior was a Ping G5 with stiff shaft. It was 15 years old and aside from being able to adjust the fade/draw and loft of the club, I gained less than 10 yards per drive. I bought the G410 instead of the newest G425 as it was $120 cheaper being one year out of the "latest greatest" My ultimate point is don't think you need to drop a bunch of money. You really can't buy your game unless you are playing with a driver that is totally wrong for you. I've played Ping clubs for years and last year decided to treat myself to new I59 irons and Pro wedges. My previous irons were I3+ that were 20 years old. I am a 8-10 handicap, and the new clubs cut my scores by maybe 1-3 strokes a round. The biggest gain if getting a custom shaft will be your shot dispersion tightening up. But unless you are consistently shooting in the 70's, id go with a factory offered shaft and save the money for a putter or lessons. I hope all works out for you. And don't be lured by promises of a radical improvement to your game. Remember the adage "Drive for show, putt for dough"

Thanks for all the information. I actually did put more information into my second post in this thread. I play once a week from May through mid August in a 2-person best shot men's league. I might play an extra one or two rounds in with my golf partner per season and the company I work for usually does an annual company outing where we go and play golf for an afternoon. That's pretty much it for me. I could go more often but I choose to go fishing instead since I'm more passionate about fishing than I am about golf. I'm currently playing with a Callaway X2 Hot driver. It was listed as one of the most forgiving drivers which is why I bought it. I slice much more often than I hook it, but the bigger issue I have is that I hit a really high ball with my driver and I know that's costing me quite a bit of distance. I'm really trying to keep my expectations in check since I know that I'm not going to be gaining 50-60 yards just by getting fit. I have a $500-$600 max budget but I'd love to get by much cheaper than that. I just figured that most of the new drivers are running $500-$600 now so I thought that even if I go with a year-old head but upgrade the shaft I'll still probably be in that price range.

[coreynov902]

For the most part, (man this sounds sexual), a head is a head is a head. Its all about the shaft. Get the right shaft and you will definitely see some game improvement. I am a 3 handicap and have been fitted for the last 20 years on all my clubs, including wedges.
Shafts in all your clubs can make all the difference in the world. If you are able to go to a fitter that has access to hundreds of shafts, that is where you should go. Some places will only try and fit you for the stock shafts that come with said driver. That is not a true fitting.

From the videos and articles I've been looking at, this is what I've come away with as well. I never realized there was so much involved in the shaft of the club. I always just thought it was the flex and also thought all manufacturers' flexes were the same (like there was an industry standard). But it seems like golf shafts are a lot like rod actions. One company's stiff flex isn't the same as another company's stiff flex the same way one rod company's fast taper isn't the same as another company's fast taper.