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  1. #1
    Member 78Staff's Avatar
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    Active Target Yellow Wire... who's using a switch to power off AT when not in use?

    Currently have my AT yellow wire connected to the yellow wire on the power plug of one of my console units. I've read some folks wire in a switch to this circuit, so they can power of the AT module completely when not in use, saving battery. I've been considering doing the same, and since I've got my console torn down to install a different electronics mount, this would be the perfect time to knock it out...

    A couple questions... It is really effective - ie how much power does the AT module pull typically? Without the switch, if I put the console unit in standby, the power/on signal is still active to the AT Module - it's only when you actually power off the unit that the yellow wire tells the AT Module to power off, correct?

    What type of switch - I assume just a waterproof on/off toggle, nothing fancy. Skeeter does not provide open/spare switches (at least not on my model) so I would have to install a switch of some sort, ie

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-Hea...oot/5001916089
    or
    https://smile.amazon.com/Pico-5588PT...ps%2C82&sr=8-1
    Or any other suggestion?
    Last edited by 78Staff; 09-20-2022 at 04:58 PM.

  2. Member 78Staff's Avatar
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    #2
    Actually I thought about this a bit and the memory cells kicked in - the AT yellow wire is connected to a Bow Unit. It's the SS3D Hub is connected via yellow wire from the console unit. That's why I don't see AT unless I have console unit powered on lol, since the AT is connected to the hub. Getting old is fun lol.

    So, would need to wire in switch at the front/bow plate somehow if I decide to do it.

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    #3
    Nope I have my AT yellow wire wired to my yellow wire from the 12" Live unit I have on my bow. I have dual Lives on my bow. One unit (stacked, top unit) is my dedicated Active Target. When that unit is on I am ready to use Active Target. If I am not using Active Target I either don't turn that unit on or use the "stop sonar" and put in Standby mode. My other Live unit (stacked, bottom) I use split screen map and 2d. Works very well for me.

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    #4
    If you look in the back of the manual for each device you can find out the amps it draws. Simple matter to add them all up to find out how much you are drawing in an hour. Then divide the AH of your battery by that number to find out how long you can run. If the motor is also connected make sure you leave ample power for cranking.

    NoCAL
    2004TR-21X/2015 250 ProXS
    2B112175

  5. Member 78Staff's Avatar
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    #5
    Does stop sonar actually power off the AT module? I though it only "turned off" the transducer from pinging. And TBH I'm not even sure about that as there is a YT vid out there that clearly shows the transducer still clicking or whatever after stop sonar was enabled. I'll see if I can find it.

    Not turning it could be an option as well I guess as similar to you have two units at bow, one for AT, and one for mapping/2D.

    Re the ah draw, for the AT Module it's 1.5ah "Max", but it's unclear what max actually means, and how often it actually draws that - ie only at startup, only when transducer active, etc. I guess I'll have to put the clamp on it and experiment :).

    Marc recently mentioned he installed a switch on his setup which is what got me thinking about this again... the power of the internet lol. Anyway it probably won't happen tomorrow (console mount install) since it's at the bow - plus I don't have the switch anyway, I used my last waterproof one on my PP light wiring so I could run the yolotek powerstick without my PP light being on all day...

  6. Member 78Staff's Avatar
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by 78Staff View Post
    Does stop sonar actually power off the AT module? I though it only "turned off" the transducer from pinging. And TBH I'm not even sure about that as there is a YT vid out there that clearly shows the transducer still clicking or whatever after stop sonar was enabled. I'll see if I can find it.
    Found it.. starts talking about it at 7:36...


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    #7
    I have a LED lighted switch for mine, mounted in the bow panel, I bought it at Autozone. It is round so drilling a hole and mounting was easy, I think 3/4" hole. Since it's lighted you have to connect a neg wire to it. I was concerned the yellow wire would not have enough power to light the LED, but it does fine.

    Some like the switch on the console, but the bow makes more sense to me.

    Per the Ionic bluetooth app, the AT draws 2.2 amps with ducer running, 1 amp with sonar stopped.
    Last edited by mikeky; 09-21-2022 at 06:31 AM.

  8. Member 78Staff's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeky View Post
    I have a LED lighted switch for mine, mounted in the bow panel, I bought it at Autozone. It is round so drilling a hole and mounting was easy, I think 3/4" hole. Since it's lighted you have to connect a neg wire to it. I was concerned the yellow wire would not have enough power to light the LED, but it does fine.

    Some like the switch on the console, but the bow makes more sense to me.

    Per the Ionic bluetooth app, the AT draws 2.2 amps with ducer running, 1 amp with sonar stopped.
    Interesting, so much for Lowrance's "1.5 amp Max" specification lol...thanks. I will probably go ahead and add a switch, I think I would prefer more of a low profile lighted switch similar to what you mentioned vs the toggle mentioned earlier - something like

    https://amazon.com/DaierTek-Waterpro...dp/B07SGWXB3P/

    or

    https://amazon.com/Rocker-Waterproof.../dp/B091TYHY8M

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by 78Staff View Post
    Interesting, so much for Lowrance's "1.5 amp Max" specification lol...thanks. I will probably go ahead and add a switch, I think I would prefer more of a low profile lighted switch similar to what you mentioned vs the toggle mentioned earlier - something like

    https://amazon.com/DaierTek-Waterpro...dp/B07SGWXB3P/

    or

    https://amazon.com/Rocker-Waterproof.../dp/B091TYHY8M
    Those switches are about the same style as mine. I definitely like the low profile.

  10. Member 78Staff's Avatar
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    #10
    yeah I think I am going to just wait a bit - make sure I am going to keep AT. Honestly I think 360 would serve me better in the shallow Florida lakes I fish most, so may wind up switching to a Mega 360 setup. No point in drilling holes for a switch that might not even exist in a month or two lol.

  11. Member 78Staff's Avatar
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    #11
    I know this is older thread, but figured I would follow up on it. I wound up installing a switch, used a Blue Sea Toggle Switch since I already had one handy. It's not lighted but a simple SPST toggle, it's tucked up under my BBC riser/leveling plate, so out of the way but easy to reach when needed.

    Now, if I'm being honest, other than testing it, I think I've actually turned AT off one time when actually out on the water fishing lol... I've found, ever since switching the AT transducer to a pole mount, that I am using AT so much more than I was when it was mounted on the TM shaft. Now, with spawning season gearing up I probably won't be using AT that much so will likely use the switch more. In fact, since my pole mount incorporates removable setup, I was looking at just pulling it off temporarily, but since the cable is routed through the bow panel, unless I wanted to pull the panel/mount/etc apart I would still wind up with the transducer and a bunch of cord piled up on the desk :(. Kinda reduces the effectiveness of the "easily removable" transducer selling point lol. I guess it works better for guys running it off the side on a PM or moving it between different boats and thus run the wiring differently.

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    #12
    My yellow wire is wired with my red wire. A toggle switch turns AT on and off.

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    #13
    I have mine on a toggle switch next to the trim switch at the bow. Couldn’t tell you how much it power it saves because that’s how I wired it from the start. I would think the AT draws a lot more than a sonar though.

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    #14
    The Video has mis information on it. Stop Sonar does stop pinging. He is probably hearing another transducer pining since he does not believe Stop Sonar stops anything

    Page 95 Stopping Sonar referring to Active Target.

    https://softwaredownloads.navico.com...2063-002_w.pdf

  15. Member 520runner's Avatar
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeky View Post
    Those switches are about the same style as mine. I definitely like the low profile.
    Similar to the switch I used.

  16. Member 520runner's Avatar
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by 78Staff View Post
    Interesting, so much for Lowrance's "1.5 amp Max" specification lol...thanks. I will probably go ahead and add a switch, I think I would prefer more of a low profile lighted switch similar to what you mentioned vs the toggle mentioned earlier - something like

    https://amazon.com/DaierTek-Waterpro...dp/B07SGWXB3P/

    or

    https://amazon.com/Rocker-Waterproof.../dp/B091TYHY8M
    These

  17. Member OBT's Avatar
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    #17
    I use a switch.
    No one can be wrong that often so it has to be deliberate.

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    #18
    I have a panel with some switches and put the yellow wire of AT to one of theses switches. The Power for AT goes directly to the box without switch.

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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Basshopper View Post
    The Video has mis information on it. Stop Sonar does stop pinging. He is probably hearing another transducer pining since he does not believe Stop Sonar stops anything

    Page 95 Stopping Sonar referring to Active Target.

    https://softwaredownloads.navico.com...2063-002_w.pdf
    Yup, basshopper is correct; stop sonar does stop the transducer from pinging, though the box remains powered up still.

    In most cases of use, I keep my Ranger's pushbutton switch in the "on" position, even when shutting down my boat power (it stops receiving power when I shutoff boat power for charging) and is automatically back on when I power up the boat for fishing. I turn the button to the "off" position if I don't plan to use the Active Target for an extended period of time. The main reason is connect the yellow wire to a switch is mainly for future times when my battery has a fault or begins to fail and I need all the power I can get for starting the outboard. I like all my electronics isolated also for troubleshooting purposes (when you have multiple electronics daisey-chained and then have a problem, it is harder to isolate the problem).
    ciao,
    Marc

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    #20
    I leave my Active Target Box and Livescope box and all 4 graphs powered all day. I also have a power pole, all accessories and trim tabs wired as well. I've never ran out of juice. All my graphs and both boxes are wired direct to one Odyssey 31 AGM which is in Parallel to another for starting battery which everything else is on.

    Thats on long tournament pre fishing days that I used them for as well.
    NPAA #803

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