GoPro Users - powered stick vs seat post type stick

[78Staff]

Bought the Powerstick, along with a mod case for powering externalldy. Figure I try the normal powerstik power setup, and worst case I can switch to a USB powerpack, or wire an on/off switch into the PP light wiring even - would be easy to do really and could mount in bilge or rear compartment easily with minimal fuss.

[78Staff]

Bought the Powerstick, along with a mod case for powering externalldy. Figure I try the normal powerstik power setup, and worst case I can switch to a USB powerpack, or wire an on/off switch into the PP light wiring even - would be easy to do really and could mount in bilge or rear compartment easily with minimal fuss.

Went ahead and wired a waterproof on/off toggle into the wiring coming off the socket to the PP light, so can switch it off once it's daytime and still have socket power for the PowerStick

[78Staff]

Another older thread, but just a followup for anyone searching... YoloTek is working fine, however I do think I would prefer a more centered view similar to Marc's setup with his Ranger, or Ken Smith's setup with his Basscat - both feature light recepticles that are more towards the center line vs on the outer gunwale of the Skeeter.

As stated above, I wired in a waterproof toggle since I am running a PP light, so can power the stick without my PP light being on all day. But I kinda wish I would have splurged and bought that Taddo pole (for the center seat pole mount) when Tackle Trap has their liquidation sale :(.

[Woody b]

My camera is a Fish I, not a go pro. I use a powerstick from Yolotek. Here's a screen shot.

Attachment 513039

[86 inches]

Sorry if this is a hijack but it was brought up earlier in this thread...
Can you share some tips to help prevent overheating. I have a Gopro 8 and I have a hard time looping because of overheating... especially in the Arizona sun.

[78Staff]

The only way to reduce overheating really is to run off a powerpack/external power of some sort, and not use the internal battery, ie completely pull it from the camera. And even then, when it's in the 90's my 10's can still overheat when looping.

Some other tips I've found online...
Run 1080K instead of 4K, 30 FPS instead of 60, etc.
Turn off some options... Stabilization uses a lot of processor, so if not needed turn it off. Unfortunatly, on the boat stabilization is useful. But try a lower level, ie not "Max" level. Also Wifi and Voice Control as well.
Turn off GPS if not needed

[86 inches]

The only way to reduce overheating really is to run off a powerpack/external power of some sort, and not use the internal battery, ie completely pull it from the camera. And even then, when it's in the 90's my 10's can still overheat when looping.

Some other tips I've found online...
Run 1080K instead of 4K, 30 FPS instead of 60, etc.
Turn off some options... Stabilization uses a lot of processor, so if not needed turn it off. Unfortunatly, on the boat stabilization is useful. But try a lower level, ie not "Max" level. Also Wifi and Voice Control as well.
Turn off GPS if not needed

Good tips. Thanks.