I finalized the build sheet for the Ultrex motorized transducer pole. I decided to create a new thread since the other one was getting a bit lengthy.
This version includes all the control options.
Hope it is helpful
I finalized the build sheet for the Ultrex motorized transducer pole. I decided to create a new thread since the other one was getting a bit lengthy.
This version includes all the control options.
Hope it is helpful
Last edited by Bill Reynolds; 02-22-2024 at 08:04 PM.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
Steve in Texas
1999 ChampioN 203 DC
2011 Mercury Optimax 250 Pro XS
Ultrex 36v 112# - 2 10" Helix - 1 10" Garmin for Livescope Plus
Thank you Bill!
. Awesome job. I just made mine, I 3D printed some parts to fit my Ghost Trolling motor. Still have a design change on the 3D printed part but your design works great.Originally Posted by Bill Reynolds
Thanks, I hope you guys Find this project as helpful as I did.
User Tip: I have not been happy with my ability to see the lure even though I know my direction arrow is lined up with the transducer. I made some progress this weekend and wanted to pass it on.
Since the transducer pole is mounted on the Ultrex, it slants back under the boat at a 3 degree angle so I set about to make it vertical. By placing SS washers under 2 of the three mounting tabs on the PVC brackets that secure the pole, I was able to get it plumb in both the vertical and horizontal planes. It was a significant improvement.
You may want to try this if you are having the same problem.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
I built this and it works amazing. Only problem I have is the lake I fish is full of stumps and I have stripped the gears out of two motors already. I need to build the pole where it has a breakaway in it. I have an idea of cutting the pvc shaft and putting some ridges on it. Basically a female ridge on one side and male ridge on the other side. Hold the two halfs together with a spring of appropriate size and tension. Anyone else have this problem and came up with a solution? Or have a better idea than what I have?
Is yours mounted to the right side like this. This is the UltraLock version with the latest bracket attachment. Seems that my trolling motor takes most of the abuse.
I wonder if we can do some sort of spring arrangement where the brackets attach to the mounting plate kind of like on the Minn Kota bow guard.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
Sort of like a lightweight pillow block. How about using a PVC ball valve (1-1/2" or 2")? The shaft would pass through the ball portion of the valve, and would need a way to secure the PVC valve body to your mounting bracket. As you said, some sort of single in-line spring (aka MinnKota style) or multiple springs (rigged like guy-wires) to retain the shaft vertically.
Yes mine is mounted to the right side like that. I am not at the boat now for pics and couldn't get them anyway as I have taken the pole off and mounted the ducer to the shaft being as it is broken and I have been bass fishing instead of chasing the swimming filet minons. Here is a very crude pic, the best I could do of my idea. This would be cut down maybe 3 inches or so below the motor, as to still have plenty of pole left in the 1 1/2 inch pvc for support. The spring would be connected to two stainless 1/4 inch pins through the shaft and surfaced smooth with the outside of the shaft. I am debating on whether i will need two, three, or maybe even four of the dimples. I am thinking two because another one of the manufactured brands I have fished with on BIL's boat has some sort of breakaway and it rotates 180 degrees and locks back in place, so I know it only has two. I also need to build and incorporate the foot switch on mine as I only have it on a remote right now and have fished last week with a foot operated one and it is more friendly than the remote alone.
This is the first I have seen of this new ultralock version. Have you been holding out on us or maybe I have not been reading enough? LOL
The squiggly lines are the spring and I did not want to draw it all the way through for visibility purposes but this should give an idea of what I am thinking. Any thoughts on this design?
Breakaway.JPG
I found the ultralock post as usual I wasn't reading enough. LOL
I haven’t thought this through but it seems the breakaway point has to be at the mounting bracket. The rotating shaft is inside the stationary one so they have to move and spring back together.
If you are making changes, take a look at my Kayak Transducer wand video in a previous post. This is my most simple yet fully featured design and the integrated battery makes for an easy install and good portability. The post only shows this with a remote but I just completed a proof of concept foot switch that is simple and inexpensive.
It needs some refinement before I post it but if you PM your email address I will send a video link that shows the preliminary model.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
I will pm you my addy now Bill very interested in that video. I think I understand what you are saying about the breakaway being at the mounting bracket maybe I should have used different terminology. It doesn't actually breakaway when the ducer hits an object it allows it to spin and not destroy the gears in the motor. Then all I would have to do is raise trolling motor spin it back in place and back to fishing. I got the idea from a LiveScanner model if you have ever seen one of those in action. Hope I can say that here. I wasn't able to open it up and visually inspect the design but it has to be something on these lines. This would allow the internal shaft to turn if contacting an object but has enough tension to not slip under normal operation. And we are only talking 180 degrees max and the spring ends should easily be able to handle that much turn with no damage it would just tighten the spring up a lil bit.
Ahhhh - now I understand.
It is possible that the LiveScanner uses a stepper motor. If that is the case, you can override the motor holding torque without damaging the motor or circuit.
With the PM motor/gear reducer, I would be inclined to address this at the connection point of the rotating shaft to the drive motor. I would look for an adjustable slip shaft coupling. If the transducer strikes an object that rotates it out of sync with the motor, you could manually rotate it back. PIC (Precision Instrument Corp) makes these but they are not readily available in the retail space. Worth a search though.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
Yes that would work and I just searched them and see what your talking about. Only issue with using something like that I think would be not having a dedicated notch or groove to land back into when rotating back into forward facing position. And not being able to get your FFS back into the exact position each time would be aggravating searching for your lure each cast. Or at least I think it would pose a problem.
Hey guys i built this pole and have been playing around with the best way to support it, used a kickstand like Bill's original design but i also came up with a cool DIY dogbone that only cost me about $55 and is real solid. Pics attached figured I would share for other DIYers to have
Looks really good. Please send the purchase info on the split collars you used.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
I would like the purchase info on the split collars you used also. Please post or PM me.
Thanks
Here is the info on parts i used in the links below
The DD26 bushings i used the ultrex ones and they fit the 1" PVC rotating end of my pole perfectly . The kickstand it rests on uses split ring pipe clamps and all thread rod cut to length. The dogbone brackets are 2" screw on conduit hangers, i think they call it #5 size,
https://dd26fishing.com/collections/...ement-bushings
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-1-1-4...ger/1001120992
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-5-...7850/100139436
I don't understand the dogbone. Can you explain how it works.
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
Reply With Quote
