Stator

[JOE54]

endeavor to persevere

[sooner magic]

I had that same motor a few years ago and the biggest problem I found out I was doing wrong was using a deep cycle battery for starting. Turned out that was my problem all a long. After changing to a non deep cycle and repairing a couple burned wires my problem was solved. By the way BBC informed me of this problem, I couldn't figure it out. What a tool at our finger tips!

[Crappie Bob]

Well, I replaced the voltage regulator, it had the shield on the connectors burnt looking. Cleaned the bullet connectors as best I could, still don't look good but I wanted to test it. Seems like that and the 3 spark plugs did more good than anything I have replaced to this point, and that is everything, LOL. I ran it in a no wake lake fishing so no open it up, but idle and trailer loading seemed to be good. I have been reading some owners cut out the connectors and just solder and heat shrink the wires, leaning towards this because it's not something I would ever see changing out on a lake. I did swap some batteries around, I found one of my 4 AGM Deep Cycle was a Start/Deep Cycle battery so I swapped the motor over to it, will see if it makes a difference.

On the water leak, I ordered 2 pump housing to water tube seals. There are little ribs on one end and the other end is made like a smooth bevel, exactly which end goes on the pump. I am assuming the "ribbed" end goes on the tube since more force is there, and the "smooth bevel" end fits on the housing since the water is being forced from the housing port into the fitting into the tube. Looked extensively and find no description of it.

[JOE54]

,bevel fits pump discharge outlet

[EuropeanAM]

Never been too fond of the solder method- especially since if you lose a regulator that's under warranty, it's been modified so it's probably not covered.

Battery should be a WET CELL (ie: Lead Acid, removable caps through which you can check electrolyte level and/or add distilled water as necessary). Deep cycle, AGM, sealed, maintenance free, etc. etc. are NOT recommended.

[Crappie Bob]

endeavor to persevere

One of my favorites

[Crappie Bob]

Never been too fond of the solder method- especially since if you lose a regulator that's under warranty, it's been modified so it's probably not covered.

Battery should be a WET CELL (ie: Lead Acid, removable caps through which you can check electrolyte level and/or add distilled water as necessary). Deep cycle, AGM, sealed, maintenance free, etc. etc. are NOT recommended.

Well I guess it's back to wet cell then, maybe I caused all this when I got the boat and changed everything over to AGM. I have read on multiple web sites they are used, but like I have read in some of your past quotes, they make and sell batteries not Mercury motors, LOL. I certainly don't need this coming back around any time soon. Thanks for all you guys help, I have a couple friends I need to get in touch with about their batteries

[Crappie Bob]

,bevel fits pump discharge outlet

Thanks, I was kinda leaning that way since the force is more upward towards the tube. Again thinks for help, greatly appreciated..

on me....

[JOE54]

One of my favorites

mine too

[Crappie Bob]

Well 3 new plugs and a voltage regulator made it run a lot better, I guess they were the problem all along, learn something new every day...New plugs have the Z, old ones didn't..

I haven't opened it up yet but idling around 2000 in a no wake lake purrs like a cat, climbs on the trailer like it used to. I'm guessing when I go to a lake I can open it up it's going to be fine, I hope, LOL

Stator, trigger, 3 new coils - spare parts in the closet to save for later I guess, I put the old stuff back on it


Now if I can get rid of the rattle, LOL........

[Crappie Bob]

Ran like a top WOT today, old tach had me doing about 6200 wide open, the new one says 4900 - which I believe more. I think the motor is just tired. Compression is 125 - 115 - 125, top down. Seems I read on here someone said theirs was 145 on all 3. maybe time for some pistons and rings

[JOE54]

yea 49k me too , thier gage is wrong yours is right check that middle one first again , if its worn out you used it a whole lot for days on end , only an INDIAN CAN DO THAT

[Crappie Bob]

Well, everything was going real well and all of a sudden, not so well. Runing along about 3800 rpms the motor speeds up about 200 rpm and then back to where it was, doesn't seem to be missing, cranks good and idles good. Just this weird thing going on now, what should I look at first?

[JOE54]

prop / boat hull release from surface seen this in current is it consistent with throttle position ????

[Crappie Bob]

It's a Tracker 185 XT - 4 blade Spitfire X7 19P fairly new. It's weird because it never did it before. After it planes off just at a cruise it starts it, like you are moving the throttle up and then back, up and then back, about 200 rpm's. Motor rev's up and boat speeds up, slows and then goes up again. Not in any current, lake run with very little wind. I'll pull the prop and check the hub, but I think the hub is fine. Prop has never been worked and looks like it just came out of the box. Get back to it this weekend.

[EuropeanAM]

If you have someone to assist you, have them pump the primer bulb while you're running it, and monitor to see if that makes any difference in how it runs.

Also would be a good idea to replace the fuel filter (at a minimum)- also reference the following link:

FUEL LINES AND PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS

[Crappie Bob]

I already replaced all the lines and filter and rebuilt the fuel pump. I really didn't like the way the cheap plastic check valves looked but did it anyway. So, I just now ordered a "new" fuel pump, see how that works out. Thanks, guys

[Crappie Bob]

Fuel pump fixed it, runs like a scalded dog again

[Hydrasport80]

Fuel pump fixed it, runs like a scalded dog again

That gives me hope, I've got a rebuild kit for the fuel pump ordered. Was your tack jumping around while running?

[Crappie Bob]

Yes it was, but that wasn't the fuel pump. My regulator went bad and I guess burned up the tach. I replaced all 3 coils, stator, trigger and still didn't run right. After I did the regulator, and 3 new "correct" spark plugs it ran better. I also replaced the tach. I rebuilt my fuel pump, didn't really like the way the new check seats looked but figured it was ok, it wasn't. Had the surging problem so I replaced the complete pump with new and cured it. All go now, thanks to Don and Joe