Just getting into this reloading stuff lol
Im looking for a work bench currently and was wonfering what yall got and how ya have it set up
Ive got about 80% of the stuff i need just need a proper bench, tumbler and and few more tools
Just getting into this reloading stuff lol
Im looking for a work bench currently and was wonfering what yall got and how ya have it set up
Ive got about 80% of the stuff i need just need a proper bench, tumbler and and few more tools
2020 Skeeter ZX150
Are you reloading shotshell or metallic? I reload for pistol and some cases require quite a bit of pressure on the press to de-prime/re-size.
I slapped together a small platform using 2x6's and 5/8" plywood. Been using it for over 30 yrs. I looked at some workbenches and just didn't think the top could handle the pressure of re sizing. Just make a frame and top to fit your reloading area. I didn't even put a finish on the plywood. It doubles as my fly tying bench too.
RifleOriginally Posted by acesover
2020 Skeeter ZX150
My benches are built from solid wood doors that came from a construction materials salvage business. Each is 7'6" wide x 3' deep and 2"+ thick. I used one door for the top, another I cut down for the 2 vertical legs and cut down a third to make the lower shelf. Everything is both glued and bolted together and is extremely heavy which is a necessity for use as a loading bench. I don't have any good pics of the benches but here is a partial of one of them. IMG_0327.JPG
Very nice
What kind of shell holders are those?
2020 Skeeter ZX150
MTM. The gray ones are over 50 years old and some of the red ones are only 4 or 5. Aside from color they are identical. Just goes to show, when you get something right there's no need for change.
You'll notice from the pic that I'm not brand loyal to anyone. I use what works for me and since you're just getting started I would suggest you do the same. These reloading kits that are offered aren't worth the trouble. As an example I have 40 or 50 sets of dies and probably around a dozen different brands.
As to your bench. As with most things size matters. The bigger and heavier you can make it the better.
As to tumblers. Wet does a better job than dry. I use a dry vibratory for small batch cleanup in prep for sizing, a Thumblers Tumbler with steel pins, lemme shine and dawn for small batch finish cleaning and for large batch stuff I use a Harbor Freight concrete mixer. Again, no brand loyalty.
I use this work bench for my reloading/gun cleaning platform:
https://www.samsclub.com/p/height-ad...d/prod22651720
Heavy, stable and looks good.
Reloading for rifle is a tough place to start. So much case prep work compared to pistol. I am a long time shotshell and pistol reloader that made the jump into rifle in the last 6 months. It's been an expensive education, and I'm still learning/spending. I also have wet and dry tumblers. Wet is superior if you also use the pins, but the clean up/drying is more time consuming. Both get the outside of the cases shiny, but the wet gets the inside of the cases clean too, something dry tumbling is poor at.
Good luck on your setup, and I hope you enjoy reloading.
John
Yes it has not been cheap lol
But its gonna be fun
2020 Skeeter ZX150
Does the water clean the ingition chamber well...i have a brush for that but...
2020 Skeeter ZX150
Yes, it does, assuming you are using pins also. When I do 9mm wet with pins, they look factory new, inside and out. Harder to tell on .223/5.56, since it's hard to see inside of the cases. But if it works so well on 9mm, I'm confident it works well on the rifle brass also. The pins are small and for sure will get inside.
Some folks wet tumble w/o the pins. That makes no sense to me. Might as well just dry tumble, IMO.
OP, here's a good thread on loading bench setups:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...-bench.218720/
John
A wet tumbler using stainless steel pins along with a bit of lemme shine (which is basically citric acid used as a dishwasher booster) along with a shot of Dawn will clean the worst brass even cleaner than new both inside and out and will even slightly deburr the case mouths in the process in 60 to 90 minutes. Cleanup and drying is simple but takes a little more equipment to make the process efficient. Dry vibratory cleaners only do fair no matter if you use corn cob, walnut hulls or whatever type of media you choose and no matter the additives you choose
Awesome tks!!!
Im only reloading large rifle...22-250, 243, 270, 300 and 338lm
Got me a rcbs case prep station coming...gonna start at water cleaners now lol
2020 Skeeter ZX150
Seeing as how you are loading necked cases, you may want to get a stuck case extraction tool. My buddy who loads rifle cartridges says it will.come in handy. Good luck and enjoy it!
No pics but I bought a 36" base kitchen cabinet and found a leftover piece of butcher block counter top at HD, mounted the top to the cabinet. Bolted my reloader to the counter top, drawers smaller stuff and large bottom opening for larger items.
I have one but have yet to use it. I've only done about 2K .223's, with a full length RCBS TC die. I do lube them well before sizing, though.
John
Good tip!
2020 Skeeter ZX150
I have one of these but I haven't touched it in probably 20 years. There's a much better way to prep brass. For low volume stuff like you mentioned I would suggest a rotary tumbler. I use a Model B but there are a number of knockoffs on the market now that will do the same thing. Next you'll need a case trimmer. I use the Lyman Case Trim Express but there are a large number of trimmers available both manual and powered that will work when coupled with a good dial caliper. This is all you need to get you started for case prep.
Summary,
Solid heavy bench in a well lit area.
Single stage cast iron O-press
Dies correct for caliber. Full length to start and neck dies later on when you start going for superior accuracy.
Balance beam scale (not digital). You can add digital later on if you like but just starting out they can be a hazard.
Powder trickler
Dial caliper
Priming system that works with your press of choice or a separate bench system.
Case lube. You'll be happier with a dry lube such as Hornady One-shot or any other aerosol dry lube. The last few cans I went through had Caterpillar labels. If it's good enough to use on a dozer it's good enough for hand-loading.
Case tumbler. Preferably wet/rotary with 5# stainless pins, can of Lemme Shine and a bottle of Dawn.
Case separator such as linked is handy but not an absolute necessity. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016958652?pid=271904
Anything else can be added later.
I got a franklin wet tumbler coming, also got a few cans of one shot yesterday.
Got a few more things to order and ill be in buisness
2020 Skeeter ZX150
I find that brand new brass or wet tumbled brass requires a lot more force when going through the dies on a progressive. Especially the case mouth expander. I prefer dry media because it does leave just a touch of residue behind that actually acts kind of like a lubricant.
The one shot lube works ok but make sure you follow the directions. I have come to like imperial wax for loading single stage rifle and a lanolin/alchohol lube (Dillon or homemade) for progressive loading.
That Franklin is a good buy. You're gonna want that Franklin case separator to go with it.
BTW you mentioned 22-250. You might want to consider picking up some Sierra BTHP match bullets to try. I have 4 22-250s and they all handle these exceptionally well. The only catch is they all prefer a different powder and loading. The only reason I mention this is because this is my all time favorite caliber. Still have the first I bought in 1968 but it's been rebarreled twice over the years since they're only good for 3000 to 4500 rounds before they give up the ghost.
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