250ss and lithium batteries?

[booter]

I cant recall whether we discussed this previously or not, but there were problems with some software versions of the Suzuki interface cables that, amongst other things, caused random false codes to be thrown.

Go into the C-10 menu, open the network menu, scroll down and select the Suzuki interface and open it. That will show a page where the software version is listed. Copy the version details down and report back. If its a bad version (3.5.0 was bad) then it can easily be flashed to run a more suitable version.

Also, many Suzukis can have an auxiliary charging lead fitted that is specifically designed to charge a house battery. Would be worth checking if the 250SS has this option.

The easy and effective alternative is to use a VSR between start and house batteries. Ive been using the BEP dual battery cluster for 13 years and it does the job perfectly: https://www.bepmarine.com/en/p/716-S...bution-Cluster

Moonlighter, thanks for information. Anyway, I looked up the software version on my Suzuki Interface Cable and I'm running 3.5.7-MZ2076C-B1.0

As for the random codes, these are the ones that I had last weekend. 4-3 (fuel injector), 1-5 (exhaust manifold Temp) and 1-2 (Shift position sensor). They all cleared once the engine started. I need to go back into the history if it's always these faults or other ones.

Lastly, I asked some people on FB and the house battery option is for the 250AP and not the SS models.

[Moonlighter]

Moonlighter, thanks for information. Anyway, I looked up the software version on my Suzuki Interface Cable and I'm running 3.5.7-MZ2076C-B1.0

As for the random codes, these are the ones that I had last weekend. 4-3 (fuel injector), 1-5 (exhaust manifold Temp) and 1-2 (Shift position sensor). They all cleared once the engine started. I need to go back into the history if it's always these faults or other ones.

Lastly, I asked some people on FB and the house battery option is for the 250AP and not the SS models.

OK, 3.5.7 is the latest interface version and a good one. I think those false codes are just due to electrical stuff, may well be from the Lithium battery, but maybe not too.

Yes you are correct, I checked after I posted and the aux charging cable is for AP (fly by wire) engines. I dont know why they couldn’t make it for mechanical motors as well.

But you could use the VSR based approach. As well as the BEP system that my boat has, Blue Seas makes them and others too.

I like that system because the house battery is isolated from the starting battery when the engine is being started, and that protects all the expensive electronics from the power spikes that happen so often when engines are started. You will never again see a low voltage warning on your screens when the engines are started.

It also means that you can never flatten the house battery by running all the house stuff. Fully automatic. I just turn both start and house switches on at the start of the day, and it manages the charging by itself. I dont have to touch anything all day.

Pretty well everyone in my fishing club has one of these systems on their boats.

And using one of those systems may well help with the codes, especially if you have the network power connected to a separate switch powered by the house battery.

Edit: with Lithium batteries involved you would need a DC/DC charger instead of VSR!!

[billnorman1]

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Since then, I went through and cleaned up all of the connectors, ran bigger gauge wire from the battery to the terminal board and etc. That helped my issue with the live well timers resetting, but still hasn't eliminated the random fault codes that only seem to happen randomly throughout the day. However, my trim/tilt doesn't read correctly or at all and maybe that sensor has something to do with that. One of these days maybe I should try finding that sensor and see what's entailed to try and replace it since it would be nice to sort of know where my tilt/trim is vice eye balling it.
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On my 200 but not necessarily your 250, the T/T is controlled by a stop that is easily adjustable by hand on the top of the motor stem at the splashwell area. My motor has a PUSH cable that controls throttle settings. If your motor has a fly by wire throttle then it won't have a cable BUT on mine if the motor tilts up too far it can break that cable by bending it too far. Anyhow, if someone else has a 200 4 stroke be aware the tilt must not tilt the motor too far horizontal.

[booter]

On my 200 but not necessarily your 250, the T/T is controlled by a stop that is easily adjustable by hand on the top of the motor stem at the splashwell area. My motor has a PUSH cable that controls throttle settings. If your motor has a fly by wire throttle then it won't have a cable BUT on mine if the motor tilts up too far it can break that cable by bending it too far. Anyhow, if someone else has a 200 4 stroke be aware the tilt must not tilt the motor too far horizontal.

On the 250SS, there is a mechanical stop there as well that will stop it from going to high and breaking stuff. On the C10 gauge, it has the ability to tell you how high or what percentage the T/T is at and mine randomly fluctuates and there's a sensor back there somewhere and not sure how hard it is to replace or even worth it. I normally don't worry about it.

[booter]

OK, 3.5.7 is the latest interface version and a good one. I think those false codes are just due to electrical stuff, may well be from the Lithium battery, but maybe not too.

Yes you are correct, I checked after I posted and the aux charging cable is for AP (fly by wire) engines. I dont know why they couldn’t make it for mechanical motors as well.

But you could use the VSR based approach. As well as the BEP system that my boat has, Blue Seas makes them and others too.

I like that system because the house battery is isolated from the starting battery when the engine is being started, and that protects all the expensive electronics from the power spikes that happen so often when engines are started. You will never again see a low voltage warning on your screens when the engines are started.

It also means that you can never flatten the house battery by running all the house stuff. Fully automatic. I just turn both start and house switches on at the start of the day, and it manages the charging by itself. I dont have to touch anything all day.

Pretty well everyone in my fishing club has one of these systems on their boats.

And using one of those systems may well help with the codes, especially if you have the network power connected to a separate switch powered by the house battery.

Edit: with Lithium batteries involved you would need a DC/DC charger instead of VSR!!

Thanks Moonlighter! I might go out and buy the smallest dedicated starting battery that meets Suzuki's requirements and experiment from there. The lithium battery that I have is equivalent to 3-group 31 AGM (215ah) and no need to charge it while I'm running. Just to ensure that the electronics talk and read everything correctly, I'll probably connect the negative leads of the two batteries together and go from there. If all works out, then I'll have to go out and purchase a $800 MK charger that is capable of charging 5 batteries at once.

[SkidooSteve12]

How are you liking the Suzy? I love mine!

I'm getting used to the boat and motor combo, 2008 Ranger Z520 and loving it too. The 250SS is so quiet that I've forgotten to turn it off after idling into an area and letting the kids start fishing!

The cranking battery that came with the boat is supposed to be a few years old now, but acts weak and should be replaced pretty soon, which is why I was thinking about just adding a lithium for the 3 Humminbird Helixes, Mega360, and 2 Lowrance graphs that came installed and connected to the Ghost. Last tournament last year it barely started the Suzuki after we fished one spot for a long time at the end of the day. I do carry a portable jump starter though just in case.