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  1. #1
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    Flippin Hook up Issue

    This past week we have 4 extra feet of water in the lake and ample water in the bushes. Excellent conditions for flipping an pitching. I encountered an issue that has seldom been a problem for me. Fishing "beaver style" baits, I lost several fish that inhaled and really clamped down on the bait. When I set the hook, I know the sinker(tungsten) blocked my hook from penetrating the fishes mouth. They eventually opened their mouth and expelled the bait. I tried a Tokyo rig, but did not get bit soon and I have ZERO confidence in that thing with all the hardware on it until I have some quick success. Any other solutions?
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    #2
    What size weight are you using?

    Hook? Sometimes I snell if I use a straight shank sometimes not.I only use a straight shank in very heavy vegetation, otherwise I try to use an EWG or a regular round bend.

  3. Member Skeeterbait's Avatar
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    #3
    I think a Jika rig may help your hook set over a Texas rig. It also works well flipped and pitched because the swiveling of the thin pencil weight allows the bait to be pulled straight down where it landed. Unlike a T-rig which tends to have some swing back toward the boat from the spot it entered the water. But the weight isn't on a long wire like a Tokyo rig. The line tied to the ring is more able to transmit the force of hook set directly to the hook unlike T-rig that must pull the weight forward ahead of the hook before the hook ever moves.


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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeterbait View Post
    I think a Jika rig may help your hook set over a Texas rig. It also works well flipped and pitched because the swiveling of the thin pencil weight allows the bait to be pulled straight down where it landed. Unlike a T-rig which tends to have some swing back toward the boat from the spot it entered the water. But the weight isn't on a long wire like a Tokyo rig. The line tied to the ring is more able to transmit the force of hook set directly to the hook unlike T-rig that must pull the weight forward ahead of the hook before the hook ever moves.
    I do have some Jika rigs, I forgot about. May give those a try. Thanks.
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    #5
    I'd try a stiffer rod first. Classic soft rod problem, assuming you can set a hook.

    If you are using an EWG, try a straight shank. If using a straight shank, then try an EWG.

    I normally use EWG's, but sometimes a straight shank works better.

    Maybe a lower stretch line. Get some 50 lb braid and stick 'em.

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    #6
    I fish Beavers a lot. A Gammy 4/0 Superline EWG, 20# fluoro on a 7'3" Heavy rod works well for me. Tried the straight shank flippin' hook deal (not snelled) and had problems that the OP described. FWIW, I am pitching the bait NOT flippin'.

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    #7
    Are you using a snell knot?

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    #8
    You did not tie a snell knot backwards did you?

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    #9
    Try a Trashmaster Jig.
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  10. Better Lucky Than Good! Casslaw's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by jbh3 View Post
    I fish Beavers a lot. A Gammy 4/0 Superline EWG, 20# fluoro on a 7'3" Heavy rod works well for me. Tried the straight shank flippin' hook deal (not snelled) and had problems that the OP described. FWIW, I am pitching the bait NOT flippin'.
    I posted a question like this about this time last year. My rod (7’6) is great, 8.1 Daiwa SV TW, 50lb Sufix 832, 1/2-3/4 oz weight most of the time. I was getting only about a 50% hook up ratio. I received lots of suggestions and switched to a snelled straight shank flipping hook.

    My hook up ratio didn't change at all. So, I went back to my 4/0 or 5/0 Gamakatsu EWG Superline hook. It was all in my hooksetting process. Once I really dialed in paying 100% attention, detecting the bite as quickly as possible and getting myself in position to make the best hookset possible my % went way up!

    I got 2nd in the tournament that next weekend after I posted that question.

    Flipping/pitching isn’t my favorite so I really wasn’t utilizing every bite like I could have been but once I started realizing I could get bit at ANY time my focus was so much better. I kept my body in position to set the hook, the correct amount of line out, rod handled correctly, etc.

    Its early in the flipping season for us that don’t do it constantly. Practice makes perfect! Good luck.
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  11. Member DrewFlu33's Avatar
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    #11
    If you're snelling the hook, I'd bet a bundle that's your issue. I started snelling at one point since that's "what you're supposed to do," then started missing fish left and right. Lightbulb clicked when I saw this, quit doing it, and I rarely miss or lose one now!
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  12. Member
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by DrewFlu33 View Post
    If you're snelling the hook, I'd bet a bundle that's your issue. I started snelling at one point since that's "what you're supposed to do," then started missing fish left and right. Lightbulb clicked when I saw this, quit doing it, and I rarely miss or lose one now!
    I find that the only time a snell benefits you is if you are almost completely vertical over the bait. True flipping. If pitching at distance the snell works against you

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    #13
    The very reason to Snell a strait shank hook is to increase your hook up because of a bass clamping down on the weight first. When the fish bites and clamps down on the weight a properly tied Snell will cause the hook to flip up to 90 angle and hook the bass in the roof of the mouth. This does not work the same way with a ewg. Also keeping a good slick um coated on the bait and weight helps also. This is for flipping vegetation. If your pitching wood then a non smelled ewg wood probably work better
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  14. Member DrewFlu33's Avatar
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by gatrboy52 View Post
    The very reason to Snell a strait shank hook is to increase your hook up because of a bass clamping down on the weight first. When the fish bites and clamps down on the weight a properly tied Snell will cause the hook to flip up to 90 angle and hook the bass in the roof of the mouth. This does not work the same way with a ewg. Also keeping a good slick um coated on the bait and weight helps also. This is for flipping vegetation. If your pitching wood then a non smelled ewg wood probably work better
    I know the line of reasoning, and I flip grass 98% of the time. Still had issues. Did you watch the Palaniuk video?
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    #15
    Ive been moving the peg stop up the line about 6 lately. Hook up ratio has improved. I figure the weight is not in the mouth as much and I can feel the hit just as well as when the weight was tight to the hook.

    I see what BMP is saying, but I wonder how the hook is positioned due to the bait at hook set?
    Last edited by Williep99; 05-22-2021 at 08:42 PM.
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  16. Member
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    #16
    To each his own. I have a better hook ratio in the roof of the mouth , not the lip or side , with a snelled hack attack hd flipping hook . I lose a few fish but it's due to poor hook set not the Snell or the hook. I keep my weight slick and my Fitzgerald Okeechobee special drives em home so I can winch em out and boat flip em. I also put a edge on the hook . I find the snelled stait shank gets in harder bone than a polymer ewg, but that's me. Also, I want the 1.5 oz weight tight against the bait. The first point of contact in the basses mouth is when his powerful chompers clamps down on that big weight. If and it is a must, when you force the weight past his chompers it forces the hook to flip up but then it causes the hook to a vertical position. If the weight is swinging your odds of staying hooked up goes way down. I'm not trying to convince anyone to Snell or use a straight shank hook. I know what works for me.
    Last edited by gatrboy52; 06-01-2021 at 08:50 PM.
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  17. Member smokewagon's Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by TableRock55 View Post
    This past week we have 4 extra feet of water in the lake and ample water in the bushes. Excellent conditions for flipping an pitching. I encountered an issue that has seldom been a problem for me. Fishing "beaver style" baits, I lost several fish that inhaled and really clamped down on the bait. When I set the hook, I know the sinker(tungsten) blocked my hook from penetrating the fishes mouth. They eventually opened their mouth and expelled the bait. I tried a Tokyo rig, but did not get bit soon and I have ZERO confidence in that thing with all the hardware on it until I have some quick success. Any other solutions?
    Are you pointing the rod tip down at the fish when reeling in any slack before setting the hook? This is really important when the bite is really close to the boat like flipping. Even if you have all the slack out when you rod is pointed too high, you will high stick the fish on the hook set. Sometimes this can happen if you're all fired up and want to set the hook as fast as possible.
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    #18
    How close are you? Are you really flipping or pitching? Do you set the hook straight up very close, or side sweep?
    If you are truly flipping up close, and have a vertical hookset, use a wide gap hook and avoid any EWG hook, as they are very poor at sticking on a close upsweep hookset. They have the wrong shape to penetrate the roof of a big bass.
    If you are further away, and/or side sweep the hookset, an EWG is OK, and does a good job of sticking the corner of the mouth.

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    #19
    I use a 4/0 Trokar TK130 straight shank. 20# flouro. Recently got 3rd but, lost the winning fish on this issue. My hookset was textbook. She got to the surface, opened her mouth and gone. Hook was still imbedded in the beaver. This is with a 3/8 tungsten weight. Shimano Expride 7’6 MH. I don’t tie as snell knot. Appreciate all the feedback.
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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by TableRock55 View Post
    I use a 4/0 Trokar TK130 straight shank. 20# flouro. Recently got 3rd but, lost the winning fish on this issue. My hookset was textbook. She got to the surface, opened her mouth and gone. Hook was still imbedded in the beaver. This is with a 3/8 tungsten weight. Shimano Expride 7’6 MH. I don’t tie as snell knot. Appreciate all the feedback.
    I was having the same issues you're describing with the same exact hook and have been experimenting heavily for the past couple years.. I switched back to a 4/0 Trokar Magworm EWG and won't be going back to a straight shank for anything other than heavy vegetation. I found with the straight shank, if I could get a good hook into the fish they weren't coming off but I wasn't getting a good hook in a ton of fish and would lose them anyway. My catch rate on all bites I'd venture to guess went from around 55 or 60% on a straight shank to over 90% with the EWG. I know some folks swear by a straight shank but it just doesn't work for me except in a few select scenarios.

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