Oh boy...torsion axels

[Koma]

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A guy posted about the exact same thing on the Ranger thread and got me thinking so I checked my trailer because I also changed tires from the Kendas that came from Ranger to Michelin Defenders, exact same size as the factory tires.
The port side rear axel is actually rubbing on the inner fender plywood with the boat sitting in the shop, I can see where both tires on the Starboard side have hit the plywood while trailering. Seems the port side front axel is the only one that isn’t hitting.
Some guys had posted it’s a easy fix by rotating the hub assembly a spline or two and re torquing the nut. I have zero experience with these things and don’t have a clue where to even start? Which way to rotate? Are they under tension and gonna spin if I pull the assembly off the spline?
I’ve called both my dealer, which is 350 miles away and Ranger, waiting for a call back from both. Anyone ever messed with these things and had any success? I know my trailer is still under warranty but not sure I really wanna drag it 350 miles like it is.

[21XDC]

Yes I did that a couple times.... Before you remove the arm off of the splines, Mark with a marker or sharp scratch where it is now for reference. Move 2-3 teeth and slide arm back on and put it back together in this position. You may need a wheel puller. After removing the big bolt that tightens the arm, I drove a screwdriver etc into the "Crack" to spread the splined arm open to help come off. This changes the ride height giving you more clearance.

[Koma]

Yes I did that a couple times.... Before you remove the arm off of the splines, Mark with a marker or sharp scratch where it is now for reference. Move 2-3 teeth and slide arm back on and put it back together in this position. You may need a wheel puller. After removing the big bolt that tightens the arm, I drove a screwdriver etc into the "Crack" to spread the splined arm open to help come off. This changes the ride height giving you more clearance.

Good to know Michael, thank you for the info

[21XDC]

FYI... You need to do all axle arms the same amout to share the weight evenly on the vulcanized rubber assembly.

[Koma]

FYI... You need to do all axle arms the same amout to share the weight evenly on the vulcanized rubber assembly.

I had read that. Thanks for sharing the info

[Koma]

FYI... You need to do all axle arms the same amout to share the weight evenly on the vulcanized rubber assembly.

I did the trailer tonight and ended up going 4 teeth to get the clearance I was comfortable with. It wasn’t to bad of a job really. I appreciate the help Michael!

[21XDC]

I knew you could do it... If you can change a tire, You can do this.

[Koma]

I knew you could do it... If you can change a tire, You can do this.

[bassnut1]

I had my tire off and looked to see how to do this. I could not see a bolt that you talk about. it seems there is a cover over the torsion part. do you remove this to get to the bolt.i only see the nut that holds the hub on. i am very familiar with that as ive replaced 4 hubs on the side of the road.

[pumatrac]

The hub bolt is the one you'll remove. It takes a 15/16' wrench. After resetting the hub, retorque that bolt to 150 ft lbs.