Blazer VL100 The Forgotten Pocket Bass Boat

[rojoguio]

I don't disagree with you on the lime green. I wanted Seafoam to match the hull since I'm going for a Old School Retro look but I only paid $44 a full sheet for the Lime Green on closeout. It was too good a deal for me to pass up. I bought 10 full sized sheets, half in lite blue for my Champion, half in Lime for this project here. I personally like the "Pop" the Lime has against the Black, when others see it for the first time walking in my shop the visual impact stops them cold. Like they walked into something. Being a one of a kind BBC members will be able to pick me out anywhere. Thank you for the other comments as quitting and walking away is not in my personality. I get tired of it and fish, work on everyone else's stuff, etc.

[wmitch2]

It's really coming along looking great !! How soon do you think it will be to the "Maiden Voyage" ?

[rojoguio]

It's really coming along looking great !! How soon do you think it will be to the "Maiden Voyage" ?

I drove up to Ross Barnett today to get the other VL100 that's on a better trailer. NIP Tide starts here tomorrow so I plan to make the local Crappie "Fear My Name" for the next 3 days. Saturday has rain in the forecast so I may work on it more then. This boat is getting all Garmin, some new, some existing so if raining Saturday I expect to be installing Chartplotters and Transducers. Next week I will swap trailers.

[DewRonInc]

Looks amazing, I hope to have my stroker back on water soon, I redid it completely also.....

[rojoguio]

Looks amazing, I hope to have my stroker back on water soon, I redid it completely also.....

Thank you Bud. I spent all day today on it, engineering how everything will work without interference with another component. So I have been stuck on an Dual Electronics mount design taking into consideration how the existing unit on the other Blazer gets in the way at times. Well the forward decks are tiny, (one man boat) the trolling motor must deploy and stow cleanly, the GPS is much less important than thought fabricating the other Dual Mount as I rely on the Panoptix to Lock-On to the structure I want to crappie fish. A forward looking location for the Panoptix Screen is needed just so I keep the direction to the Tree Top in mind without really looking at the Screen, if that makes sense. I fabricated the Panoptix transducer pole so it un-plugs and moves from Vessel to Vessel. Well it can get in the way of jigging with a pole in each hand. The Panoptix Transducer pole must tilt forward, and rotate to stow clearing the Panoptix screen in the process. I really could use a Shoehorn here but got it figured out by lunch time. Also both transom transducers had to penetrate the Transom itself return the wires under the waterline so much care had to be taken to guarantee no future leaks. I have never understood, someone pulls their boat out of the water, pulls the plug watching water run out without thinking twice about how is the water getting in to start with. I pull my plugs only when I wash my boats and actually get water in the bilge. If I have water in the bilge I fix the leak, Period. Anyway, I shoehorned a Garmin 1042xsv and Garmin 4in (for water depth on plane) onto the Console this evening. I hodge-podged together a RAM mount that will work for the Panoptix screen but have to order two different RAM mounts tomorrow to make it up. The GPS will be mounted in front of the Forward Switch Panel, on the Deck, since it only has to remind me what direction the next Tree Top is. So this part is super slow as I will not drill a hole in this boat without knowing I need to.

[DewRonInc]

My wife just got me a ghost for mine.

[DewRonInc]

I had to fill a ton of them myself, holes everywhere. I have all lowrance, active target, dern new stuff is about to come out, hds pro, active target 2. Tester told me the active target will not work with hds pro, need another box to make it work. Did u put resin in bolt holes on transom when u installed?

[rojoguio]

The large 5/8in Eye Bolt hole in the Transom was used for the GT54 Transducer wire then filled with Starbrite Marine Silicone before capping with the proper wire cap. The same was done for the Garmin Striker Vivid 4c Transducer wire except I could reach the exit hole on the inside of the Transom to tool the silicone there too. Starbrite Marine Silicone is rated below the waterline. All other holes were sealed with Urethane (5200). If any hole below the waterline has a sealant used in my shop it is 5200 or other Urethane equivalent. The project boat is in a heated building so I expect fully cured silicone before it sees any water. I will say here the 1708 S-Glass I Epoxied on the inside of the transom made the drill work for the hole put in it.

[retiredmechanic]

In post #268, 3rd paragraph, you made a very good point about proper crimping tools. I'll bet most will say a crimping tool is a crimping tool what difference does it make. I have 3 or 4 different pair for the various types of terminals.

[rojoguio]

In post #268, 3rd paragraph, you made a very good point about proper crimping tools. I'll bet most will say a crimping tool is a crimping tool what difference does it make. I have 3 or 4 different pair for the various types of terminals.

Thank you for noticing. For the novice I thought to include it as this thread has become reference material for their own DIY projects. The Proto Crimpers pictured have been with me for 46 years now and worked on several different continents. Here in my shop I made a ridiculous amount of money on professional installs and manufacturers' installs, both who still don't know to not penetrate the insulation. My customer would complain about something not working, see the crimp butt connector was still there but not realize the High Resistance Connection that had grown within the connector in effect causing a break in the wire. Anyone can see when they corrode in two.

[rojoguio]

Well another baby step finished. Fabricated the Bow Switch Panel after figuring out if I could fit everything I wanted to so I would not have to cut a extra hole for cables to exit.
Bow Switch Panel 1.jpgBow Switch Panel 2.jpg

I cut the panel out of 5052 1/8in aluminum sheet to fit the Bow Switch Panel location first. Then doodled on the panel till a layout I could live with developed. You just never know till you draw it out, I wiped off the Sharpie marks several times before settling on this layout. Using my drill press and good clamping I drilled and hole-sawed The openings needed.

Bow Switch Panel 3.jpgBow Switch Panel 4.jpg

Painting was really straight forward after diligently radiusing and deburring the outside edge and inside opening for the Chartplotter Cables. I sanded with 320 grit using a DA sander, sprayed 1 heavy coat of PPG Refinish Epoxy allowing the proper wait time to Topcoat then shot 2 coats PPG Refinish Direct Gloss Urethane on top. One thing to mention here, using the Epoxy is great but make sure you allow plenty of Induction time before spraying.

Bow Switch Panel 5.jpgBow Switch Panel 6.jpg

Using a razor blade to trim I put Hatch Seal on the back of the Switch Panel. There is adhesive on one side so I can open it up if needed. Also I used a hole punch to punch holes in the Seal so the screws would not accidentally catch the Seal and tear it by rolling it up on the screw threads. Another thing, on my other Blazer I have to set the Livewell timer on the Helm Dash, I just think it causes wasted steps so this timer I installed in the Bow Switch Panel. If you look close you will see I Siliconed the Timer, it is a Grout so the plastic stem where the nut secures it to the Panel is not holding the weight of the timer alone. I think over time it would break off without the added Silicone. Finally a picture of the installed Panel. One more baby step to completion.

Yesterdays Catch.jpg

With the river here due for real gully washing rain tonight after making and painting the Switch Panel yesterday I went and stuck steel to some Crappie. I had a 30 fish limit of keepers in 3 hours or so, culled numerous Shorts too. Had quite a bit of fun using a B&M BGJP 14 footer that I cut the handle down on. I always hold a jig pole with my Index Finger on the Backbone of the Blank so cutting the handle down keeps you from sticking the handle in your side. Real limber but lets you lead the fish out of the school before raising to the surface.

[rojoguio]

I will keep this short as I'm moving a bit slow today but a couple of pictures. First is the Trolling Motor Battery setup. Using Odyssey Batteries I do not need to worry about venting the Battery Compartment as they can be installed in any direction, even upside down. The reserved space in the hull lowers the Center of Gravity a little but opens up space somewhere else. Space is a premium in this boat. Also you can see I installed a set of battery taps so when I switch to 12 volts for my Hand Control TM it will be quick and easy. You can't get a wrench on 2 of the 4 battery terminals when the batteries are in place.

Trolling Motor Batteries.jpg

Second picture is now She is sitting on a good trailer so I can finish setting the boat up and get some use out of it while building the new trailer. I found I have enough Chrome Moly 2x3 Chassis Tubing to build 3 Killer cross members for another galvanize trailer frame that has been sitting around here for years. We have a galvanizing plant 45 minutes away so I'm going to re-work the old trailer then have it dipped again. I think I can set the hull well into the frame on this other trailer, add a full length walk board down one side, and leave plenty of clearance from the axle. The trailer has 13in Sliders now but I will re-assemble with new 14in Sliders, Springs, Fenders, and Radial Tires.

Sitting on Trailer.jpg

[paulrodbender]

Looking great and she looks about ready to hit the water any day now for some sea trials.....

[rojoguio]

Looking great and she looks about ready to hit the water any day now for some sea trials.....

Thanks Bud, I have to reset the boards a bit, increasing the pad height has all the weight on the keel guide boards.

[rojoguio]

Hatch Latch 1.jpg

First thing you have to know is where the edge of the flange your Latch hooks under is. Here I put masking tape down first then raised the hatch to reveal the flange under it. Then I took a measurement from a common vertical and transferred the measurement to the tape. Perko Hatch Latches are offset 2 inches from the flange edge so you can see I marked the tape at that point.

Hatch Latch 2.jpg

I drill a 1/4 inch hole at the 2 inch point for the 2-1/2 inch Hole saw pilot bit. By drilling the hole first you don't accidentally damage the hatch which is always possible using the Hole saw for the initial pilot hole.

Hatch Latch 3.jpg

Now since I have a material installed be it SeaDek or Carpet the Hole saw can grab this a cause a problem with control so I put just the Hole saw in the pilot hole then traced around the saw blade for cutting a relief cut. If the saw grabs the Seadek it will only tear up what is being removed with the aluminum underneath.

Hatch Latch 4.jpg

I just used a box cutter to make the cut in the SeaDek. Don't worry if you get a little inside or outside the line with your cut. This still makes sure you don't loose control of the saw by grabbing.

Hatch Latch 5.jpgHatch Latch 6.jpg

A aluminum hatch will have a burr on the underside that needs to be removed before installing the latch. I just use a screwdriver blade on edge at a 90 degree angle to scrape the burr away.

Hatch Latch 7.jpgHatch Latch 10.jpg

Finished Latch install. The Latch is installed with the Cam Stem closest to the Flange lip. The Latch tension is adjusted by turning the cam up or down the stem before tightening the set screw.

Trailer Adjusted to New Hull.jpg

I have the trailer adjusted to the new Hull setting the boat as low as possible into the trailer frame.

[rojoguio]

Livewell Seat Mount 1.jpgLivewell Seat Mount 2.jpgLivewell Seat Mount 3.jpg

I ordered a Stainless Marine Seat Swivel Mount and bolted it to the new Livewell Hatch. The hinge was seriously upgraded to a 1/4in pin Marine Aluminum Piano Hinge. I had to attach the Swivel Mount to the Seat first then bolt from inside the lid thru the Swivel Mount using a locknut on top. The HD Perko Hatch Latch secures the Livewell Hatch Lid when the Livewell is not in use.

Livewell Seat Mount 4.jpgSeats Installed.jpg

She is getting Wet Tomorrow. I have oil in the gas till I verify the oil tank is going down. Also Yamaha Ring Free Plus, a double dose, I have been running for a few minutes every day to make sure the Rings get a chance to loosen up from sitting 5 years.

[paulrodbender]

Oh yeah...... Best of luck and give us a report. I got a feeling, she's gonna do good.

[rojoguio]

She did a little too good. The prop caught and She shot like a rocket to porpoising. 35mph and climbing at around 3200. I was paying more attention to getting the boat slowed down with the little freeboard aft. I have to remove the 4in extensions, I have them on the other Blazer with a 4 in Jackplate but the Hooks in the hull give a tremendous amount of Stern Lift. The static balance is off too, I have to relocate the cranking battery to Stbd. Pulling the Extensions and moving the Battery first then another water test.

[Charles Prestridge]

Congratulations on your 1st test run.

Did you use 3M5200 when you mounted extensions?

I typically have to use heat to help break the 5200 to fiberglass bond.

I am curious to see your tricks/skills in removing the 4” extensions.

[rojoguio]

Mr Charles I used the Starbrite Marine Silicone. A piece of Piano wire will zip the sealer right off. I have been picking up the trailer tongue all along and was concerned too much setback may be a problem. More due to the weight removal longitudinally, smaller front deck, the extra 38 pounds in the Yamaha and having a oil tank and being located so far back. I located the oil tank partially under the aft deck leaving more of the Hatch area open. The Hull really lost some weight. So much water logged material was removed. Although I added to the Pad Height increasing the Transom total height the Bob's Machine Jackplate has little rise built in, since I had a couple of sets of extensions I hoped it would work. The Extensions have about 4 inches of rise added. The Static Balance must be corrected to improve "On Pad" driving & handling with such a narrow Beam. My Prop shaft all the way down was 3 inches below the Pad to start so I have to use all the lowest mounting holes when removing the extensions. Most likely will need to run with the Jackplate up a bit once this is done. I like to fish "The Horseshoe" on Ross Barnett and the Marsh below my house here, both areas require a Jackplate to shortcut to the good fishing. You can access going around all the Shallows but that takes time. My rigging was adjusted for the height I run the E-Tec 90 on the other Blazer which is way in the air in hopes of having the entire 6in stroke of the Jackplate. I don't think I need to pull out my pencil yet to calculate corrections, the front storage is completely empty also no cooler on the deck. I engineered this boat for a Yeti with ice in front of the console, 20 pounds of tackle in the forward storage, being such a small boat the weight sensitivity to balance is huge. 20 pounds of tackle 12ft forward plus 40 pounds 9ft forward of the Transom will really make a longitudinal difference in balance in such a short boat. I plan on pulling all the tackle out of the other boat today to weigh and weigh the Yeti Roadie and 35 Yeti to see the difference before ice and I run with the Roadie sitting where the passenger seat went where the 35 Yeti will be well further forward. Once I have some weights I can drop lead shot bags in the forward storage to simulate loaded conditions. I have 200 pounds of lead shot for this kinda of stuff.