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  1. #1
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    VSS style reel seats

    I've built a few rods with the VSS17 and IPS style reel seats from Fuji, and every time I feel like it's a complete pain in the arse. Any tips for gluing the grips to the seats without excess glue protruding around the edges? Any spinning reel seats you guys prefer over the Fuji?

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  2. Member
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    #2
    VSS suck IMO. My favorite is just a regular old Fuji DPSM16 or 17. Favorite build is uplocking and 2 cork rings behind the handle and an epoxy ramp in the front. Not necessarily sexy but cheap, easy and comfortable.

    Alps MVTs are fine and look nicer but way more expensive.

  3. Member
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    #3
    I don't put glue anywhere near the edges, I think the smooth transition is all that is needed for durability on the outside. I prefer the larger sized grip in my hand of the IPS and VSS even though the VSS is smaller in diameter, I like the IPS for alignment and grip matching during the build. I only use a 16 mm seat for light, no fail, no corrosion fly rod reel seats.

  4. Member
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    #4
    I use the VSS on most of my spinning rod builds and really like that handle. I almost always turn it around so the EVA or Cork goes towards the butt of the rod and the seat nut comes down and locks onto the reel heading towards the butt. I typically mark where everything will end up on a dry fit, then disassemble and add glue. Before I slide the EVA or Cork on I always wet a couple of wipes with DNA to clean up excess. I typically figure out what my tape arbors will have to be for the reel seat before gluing up anything so as soon as the EVA or Cork goes on, I slide it just slightly further down so I can get a good arbor under the seat near the grip transition, then do two more arbors, one in the center and one towards the front of the VSS seat, get my glue packed in the edges and surfaces and slide the reel seat down. As I merge the EVA/Cork with the VSS seat I apply glue to the barrel of the VSS that fits inside the EVA/Cork, not much is needed here. Slide them together and align to the spline of the rod. As soon as possible, I am going back at it with the DNA wipes to clean up any excess glue from the blank and around the edges of the VSS seat to grip transition. Once I am satisfied, I typically wrap a band of 1/4" masking tape around the joint just to stabilize it while it dries. That has worked very well for me for several rods. From mixing the glue to final wipe is usually less than 10 minutes, gotta be prepared ahead of time.

  5. Member
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Spoonplugger1 View Post
    I don't put glue anywhere near the edges, I think the smooth transition is all that is needed for durability on the outside. I prefer the larger sized grip in my hand of the IPS and VSS even though the VSS is smaller in diameter, I like the IPS for alignment and grip matching during the build. I only use a 16 mm seat for light, no fail, no corrosion fly rod reel seats.
    I think this could be my biggest mistake, using too much glue around the edges.

    2018 LEGEND 211R | 250 MERC PROXS

  6. Member
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by TDobb View Post
    I use the VSS on most of my spinning rod builds and really like that handle. I almost always turn it around so the EVA or Cork goes towards the butt of the rod and the seat nut comes down and locks onto the reel heading towards the butt. I typically mark where everything will end up on a dry fit, then disassemble and add glue. Before I slide the EVA or Cork on I always wet a couple of wipes with DNA to clean up excess. I typically figure out what my tape arbors will have to be for the reel seat before gluing up anything so as soon as the EVA or Cork goes on, I slide it just slightly further down so I can get a good arbor under the seat near the grip transition, then do two more arbors, one in the center and one towards the front of the VSS seat, get my glue packed in the edges and surfaces and slide the reel seat down. As I merge the EVA/Cork with the VSS seat I apply glue to the barrel of the VSS that fits inside the EVA/Cork, not much is needed here. Slide them together and align to the spline of the rod. As soon as possible, I am going back at it with the DNA wipes to clean up any excess glue from the blank and around the edges of the VSS seat to grip transition. Once I am satisfied, I typically wrap a band of 1/4" masking tape around the joint just to stabilize it while it dries. That has worked very well for me for several rods. From mixing the glue to final wipe is usually less than 10 minutes, gotta be prepared ahead of time.
    Good feedback, appreciate it. I think I'll use this approach in the future. I have been reaming the grip, using foam arbors in the reel seat, then gluing the assembly together, then after drying gluing the assembly to the blank. I don't like the foam arbors because I almost never get a dead center ream on them. Tape is better, but never thought to do so with the VSS or IPS design.

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  7. Member
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by willwork4fish View Post
    VSS suck IMO. My favorite is just a regular old Fuji DPSM16 or 17. Favorite build is uplocking and 2 cork rings behind the handle and an epoxy ramp in the front. Not necessarily sexy but cheap, easy and comfortable.

    Alps MVTs are fine and look nicer but way more expensive.
    Yes, I've done the DPSM17's as well and can't beat the simplicity.

    2018 LEGEND 211R | 250 MERC PROXS