Ranger Z520C. When you power load the boat onto the trailer how deep should you back in the trailer? Up to the fenders? Top of the enders should be equal to the water?
Ranger Z520C. When you power load the boat onto the trailer how deep should you back in the trailer? Up to the fenders? Top of the enders should be equal to the water?
Each boat trailer is different and every ramp is a different angle so there isnt a one depth fits all. For the record I no longer have a Ranger but look at the boat when you are backing it in to unload and as soon as the rear of the boat floats stop. Make note of the trailer depth and that’s usually really close to the depth you want to be at when you load. This is just based on my past experiences.
Depending on the angle of the ramp, wind, etc. I normally back in to where the water level is about mid way across the top of the fender. Normally my outer bunks are just poking out of the water. Go too deep, especially in the wind, and the back end will swing around and you will struggle getting it lined up. Crude sketch attached.
trailer.JPG
Thank you
I back in until the front trailer tire has about an inch of it showing above the water line. Easiest boat I've ever loaded from day 1 of owning it.
2019 Ranger Z520C DC / 250 Pro XS 4 Stroke
ThanksOriginally Posted by Bassin Bob71
For my Rangers at my ramps, both loaded and launched the same and different. I launched when water was about 1" from the uppermost portion of the fenders. When loading, I backed down so the fenders were about 3" above water and drove it on the trailer.
To determine the best power loading depth you need to pay close attention to the unloading depth. If your alone let out about 2 feet of the wench strap but leave the boat attached to the strap. Then back down very slow and pay close attention to where the trailer is at when the boat starts to slide off the trailer. Make a mental note of where the trailer was at when the boat started to slide backwards. If you have two people simply tell the driver to back in slow and have him make a mental note of where the trailer was at when the boat started to slide back. Then when loading instruct your driver to put the trailer depth at the same it was when the boat started to slide off the trailer or just a tiny bit more shallow. In my opinion too shallow is easier to fix than too deep. Too shallow you simply back down deeper but if your too deep and load when you pull out the boat may shift and be out of alignment, hence why I say too shallow is easier to overcome than too deep. The main thing is you do not want the very back of the transom floating when the nose is touching the bow roller.
Another thing I will add is regarding the trim angle of the motor. I like to trim my motor until its at full trim. Once it starts into the tilt mode I'll bump it back down to upper portion of the travel in trim. The reason being is when you are on the trailer bunks and you bump the throttle to power load having a lot of positive trim helps "pop" the nose up and load easier in my opinion. Plus with a lot of positive trim you will not have to worry about your prop striking the ramp.
Now here is where a curve ball comes in and you will simply learn this over time. On a really steep boat ramp you will more than likely load/unload more shallow. On a boat ramp that has a small angle you will have to back in more deep. Most boat ramps have a good angle but I have ran across some that have a very steep angle or not quite enough angle. In these cases you will learn how to adjust with time.
when outer bunks barely go under water - usually you can see one of them in side mirror if you slightly angle when backing in
And take it easy…power loading puts a bunch of stress on your bow eye and your bow stop. I ease it on and then use the two speed Fulton to crank it up the rest of the way.
Dip trailer till bunks are covered then pull forward. Helps keep things moving when getting the boat the last bit of the way.
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