Upgrading to 6AWG on 2012 PT175

[MSD]

After going back and forth in my mind, I have finally decided to upgraded my 8AWG to 6AWG that supplies power to my MG Tour 75 motor. I never had any problems with the 8ga wire, but after research I felt it's time to do it. I have been putting it off because I thought it was going to be too involved. But after taking a much closer look, I'm sure I've found an easy way to get it done. After I do it I will post some pics and that will let others know that have the same boat as mind that it can be done without much headache. I purchased some quality custom made wire with all the connections already made on the ends. I was impressed with the quality and the speed at which I received my order. The cable is made in the USA and everything is marine grade. Also got them to make me a 6ga jumper and a jumper from the positive post to my 50 amp circuit breaker. MG recommends a 50 amp breaker. PM me and I'll be happy to give anyone the name of the place from which I ordered. I will be upgrading my TM plug also. New cranking battery and NOCO Gen 3 charger also. Charger and main battery disconnect are already in place. Hopefully with some decent weather this Sunday, I'll get everything in place.

[Old Army]

I see that the 2014 175 TXW comes with 6 gauge so you are bringing it up to the new standard.

[MSD]

I never understood why they put 8ga in the boat. Surely it wouldn't add that much to the cost. But I guess every upgrade that they make keeps raising the price. And before you know it they'd be way above their price point.

[Bassbully 51]

I never understood why they put 8ga in the boat. Surely it wouldn't add that much to the cost. But I guess every upgrade that they make keeps raising the price. And before you know it they'd be way above their price point.

I wouldn't have an issue so much with 8ga. Its the 10 ga some tin boats are rigged with that bothers me.

[TritonTRXV8]

Looking forward to seeing pics of the process and the finished product. You are making some nice upgrades and they will all perform very well I think. Looking forward to your review on that new TM plug you purchased to its a heavy duty unit.

[TxBigRed]

On a 24vdc setup the voltage drop will be minimal ether way on a 24vdc system. 24vdc@30 amps, 22' length, you will have a voltage drop of .852301 volts on 8 awg and .536018 volts on 6 awg. On a 12 volt set up @50 amps, you would have a drop of 1.421 on 8 awg and .893363 on 6 awg. I don't know about you guys, but I rarely ever use even half of the power on my trolling motor. Even when I am trolling for crappie all day in a good wind I rarely ever get above 5. Maybe if I had a 12vdc system I would change.

[TritonTRXV8]

On a 24vdc setup the voltage drop will be minimal ether way on a 24vdc system. 24vdc@30 amps, 22' length, you will have a voltage drop of .852301 volts on 8 awg and .536018 volts on 6 awg. On a 12 volt set up @50 amps, you would have a drop of 1.421 on 8 awg and .893363 on 6 awg. I don't know about you guys, but I rarely ever use even half of the power on my trolling motor. Even when I am trolling for crappie all day in a good wind I rarely ever get above 5. Maybe if I had a 12vdc system I would change.

I rarely run above speed 3 on mine even in windy conditions. Almost 90% of the time I run on speed 2 and it is just right. Still wish I had variable tho.

[TxBigRed]

Yeah, I know what you mean. On my other boat I have a Copilot Riptide-10 speeds, always wished it had 20. Now on my newer boat I have a I-Pilot Terrova with 20 speeds, but still wish there were more or better yet, variable.

[Tommy O.]

I don't see the point, based on the information from Minn Kota and Ohm's law.

[TritonTRXV8]

Yeah, I know what you mean. On my other boat I have a Copilot Riptide-10 speeds, always wished it had 20. Now on my newer boat I have a I-Pilot Terrova with 20 speeds, but still wish there were more or better yet, variable.

When I got my 70 MG i was wanting variable speed but didnt want to go with the 82 (or at the time spend $1200 on a fortrex) so went with the 5 speed motorguide. 2 weeks later motorguide comes out with a 75 MG variable tour model like MSD has on his boat. What a bummer. O well when the day comes I WILL get a fortrex.

[MSD]

On a 24vdc setup the voltage drop will be minimal ether way on a 24vdc system. 24vdc@30 amps, 22' length, you will have a voltage drop of .852301 volts on 8 awg and .536018 volts on 6 awg. On a 12 volt set up @50 amps, you would have a drop of 1.421 on 8 awg and .893363 on 6 awg. I don't know about you guys, but I rarely ever use even half of the power on my trolling motor. Even when I am trolling for crappie all day in a good wind I rarely ever get above 5. Maybe if I had a 12vdc system I would change.

From what I have researched, a 3% voltage drop is the maximum allowable for main conductors, like trolling motor cables. In your example of the 30 amps on 24v, that is a voltage drop of 3.55% on 8AWG. and on 6AWG, it is a voltage drop of 2.23%. I'm just trying to minimize voltage drop and following guideline from MG. I want to be able to run my TM at full power without having to worry about a meltdown on the wire.

[TritonTRXV8]

I think you are doing the right thing. If I had gone with a variable speed motor like originally planned I was gonna upgrade my harness also. Its better to be safe than sorry. For the 5 speed 70# motor it hasnt been an issue and Im not gonna upgrade until I upgrade motors again.

[poleNhand]

MSD- I'm doing the same thing on my 190 tx. Please share your easy way? I'm waiting on the wire. I chose to put terminals on myself for easier rigging so I'm curious. Keep us posted.

[bassassin]

MSD and PoleNHand - I too am making this upgrade on a 2013 pt 190. Any info on how the switch was made, how the wires were removed and the new ones strung through the tight spots under the decking, etc… would be a great help. Thanks in advance for sharing!!

[MSD]

I got my wires ran from the back all the way to the front. It went as well as expected. I took all batteries out of boat. Then I removed the floor drain cover that in front of the center seat. Then using my phone I took photos of the underside of the floor to see what I was dealing with in the way of braces and foam and such. I used the drain tubes that drain the rims of the compartments....the ports side and the center rod locker.....as a reference and I drilled a 3" hole in the floor of the center rod locker. I used this hole and the floor drain hole as access holes and hand holes. I used 1/2" nonmetallic liquid tight conduit to run under the floor from the battery area to the hole inside the rod locker. I zip tied 2 pieces of the conduit together and with the help of an electricians fish tape, I pulled both pieces at the same time. I needed some hands to help with that step, so you may need some help with that step also. I also had to zip tie my liquid tight to my deck for several days in the sun in order to get it straight enough to work with....it's curled too much to work with right out of the box. I then took off the cover off up front for access to that area. The screws are hard to find in the carpet. I think mine had 8 screws. With the front cover off, I could see the end of the tubes in the rod locker. I ran the wires down one of the tubes, the ran 1 wire in each of the liquid tight conduits. I used the conduit so that the wire would not just be lying in the bottom of the boat unprotected. Once I got the conduit run and the front panel cover removed, running the wire took about a minute. I slid through very easily and is very well protected. I did not even attempt to remove the 8 ga wire...no need to do that. I ran out of daylight and the weather is going to be bad, so I have to finish it Sunday. The work I did tonight took about an hour. I'll post a few pics may be that will help you see how I did it and may help you too.

[MSD]

I did lose the use of one of my rod tubes, but to me that was no big deal at all as I wasn't using the particular tube anyway. I used 2 pieces of 1/2" liquid tite because I felt it would be too hard to try to feed 2 wire in a single piece of 3/4" liquid tite. The conduit will give my wires very good protection from any sharp edges and such. I also used a couple of short pieces of liquid tite upfront. I put it from the ends of the rod tubes to the access hole to add a layer off protection. My install will look awesome after I get it all buttoned up. I'm glad I tackled this project....it's not near as bad as I was thinking.

[MSD]

[MSD]

I know it looks like a mess, but when I'm completely finished, it will be a very nice install. Really happy with the cables I purchased. I had them made to a length of 20 feet which was just about right. It gives me enough with some extra so that nothing is in any sort of bind or against anything sharp. Sorry the pics posted sideways, but I made the post from my phone and I guess that's how it does it. But, it still give you a pretty good idea of what I did

[TritonTRXV8]

Mike it looks great! I got a few preview pics guys and this is gonna be very clean when its all done. I like the idea of going up the middle and not having to pull the front deck up is even better. Are you going to make a cover for the 3" hole inside the rod locker or just leave it open?

[MSD]

Roy, I'm going to come up with some sort of cover or everything I drop will end up under the floor just because that's how my luck runs. And then it would be a real pain to clean the bilge area. Any ideas are welcome.