Quick connects for removing onboard charger?

[Meleagris1]

Looking for a reliable way to quickly and easily connect/disconnect my 4 bank charger leads to my batteries so that I leave it out of the boat, instead of having it permanently mounted in the bilge compartment. I would like to leave that area open so that I can work quickly on bilge and livewell pumps if need be. Anyone have any recommendations on a neat clean and reliable way to do this? Thanks!

[Nitro 929]

If you could find some kind of plug with 8 terminals, maybe like a plug for the light hook up on your boat trailer? Wire it to your batteries and mount it some where in the boat, where all you have to do is lay your charger on deck and plug in one plug. Just a thought, but interesting idea you have!

[berudd]

So not an answer to you question but do you find yourself need that kind of quick and frequent access to the bilge area? Is expect that need to arise very infrequently and potentially never. That being the case I'd mount the charger as intended and just deal with pulling it out on the off hand chance I need to work in the bilge. Basically, I'd set it all up to make the most come use, charging, the easiest task.

[Meleagris1]

I haven't needed access to the pumps yet, but if I do, and its on the road at a tourney, it would be a major hassle. I've got a new MK 460 PC coming tomorrow. If it isn't convenient I may just leave it in there, but it seems easy enough to do this and it would also eliminate some weight from the back of your boat. I do like being able to look down in the bilge area and visually inspect everything, as well as clean it out periodically, which I can't do with the charger in there. I fish big water and there is a comfort factor with being able to inspect the pumps, or replace them quickly and easily.

[MarkNY]

There are fuses built into the ring terminals of these onboard chargers so don't get any ideas on cutting them off and replacing them with a quick connect clip of any kind.

[Meleagris1]

Why would you have to get rid of the fuses? Shouldn't be any problem at all to leave them right where they are, just add quick disconnects, something like this from Noco. This one actually comes with its own fuse . . .

[90 5.0]

Mount the charger somewhere else and run the wires is what I would do, alot of people actually prefer to mount them in dry storage to keep them more away from the elements.

[90 5.0]

When I'm traveling for tournaments its nice with on board chargers to be able to only run a cord to the boat instead of dragging chargers around like I used to have to do before on board chargers...

[Islands]

I have a charger mounted on the wall in the garage and another one cabled the same way that I can use for travel. Used twist lock connectors much like the connectors used for TMs. Mine is a 3 bank so I have a 4 pin for two banks and a 3 pin for the third bank, but two 4 pin sets should work fine and if wired the same it should not matter which two are connected together. I did talked with CSI tech support regarding cable gauge, length and where the connectors should be located. The space in the boat was used to mount a spare prop and it has all worked fine for 7 years.

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[berudd]

Why would you have to get rid of the fuses? Shouldn't be any problem at all to leave them right where they are, just add quick disconnects, something like this from Noco. This one actually comes with its own fuse . . .

He didn't say you would have to just cautioning against it. Clearly, you already knew that would be a bad idea but others might not have so it's good advice. I'd think if you are traveling to a tourney you'd like the ability to lock the boat up and just run an extension cord to the boat. Are you thinking you find a plug that will integrate connections to all of your batteries and then run it through the same hole that the cord from the onboard charger plug would use? I guess if you did that you could create and extension cord of sorts that could run from the charger to the boat and then secure the charge in your room (assuming hotel for out of town tourneys). But I'd be concerned about voltage drop from the charger to the batteries that way. I don't have sufficient knowledge to know that that will be a problem or not.

[Meleagris1]

I was just reading a thread on the trolling motor forum where Jones Trolling motor said that the ends of the MK leads have built in temp sensors, so you wouldn't want to cut them to add a different style connectors. Sounds like I'm going to have to stick with on board mounting.

[Jim R]

if you are worried about the bilge pumps why don't you just add an extra one that you can just plug in and access quickly? That MG 460 is heavy, I have one.

[ol man river]

Why would you have to get rid of the fuses? Shouldn't be any problem at all to leave them right where they are, just add quick disconnects, something like this from Noco. This one actually comes with its own fuse . . .

this terminal isnt rated for higher amperage loads, im pretty sure. probably 4 amps max. they are used on 'battery tender ' low amp chargers.

[Meleagris1]

if you are worried about the bilge pumps why don't you just add an extra one that you can just plug in and access quickly? That MG 460 is heavy, I have one.

It is a heavy charger, the new 460PC is just got is less than half the weight.

Jim I would like to do that, but I would have to mount it permanently because with the charger in place I have zero access to the bottom of the bilge. Guys up here will often mount a large bilge pump to a heavy plate with battery clips for emergency use.

[MikeFloyd]

Multipole Connectors

You can get these in the proper size from Grainger or similar electrical supply houses. You will need to cut you charger cables (one at a time) and put these in series. While you're there get some dielectric grease to keep the connectors sealed from water and clean.

[SkeeterBob]

I would leave it permanently in. I have the same unit in my Bug and like the fact it's charging when motor is running. Looks like a big hassle to hook and unhook the charger all the time. Probably kill any warranty when you cut a cable.

[Meleagris1]

I would leave it permanently in. I have the same unit in my Bug and like the fact it's charging when motor is running. Looks like a big hassle to hook and unhook the charger all the time. Probably kill any warranty when you cut a cable.

That's news to me, I wasn't aware that the MK charged the TM batteries while running? Do you have a link to this info? Here is a link to the 460PC . . .

Minn Kota Precision On-Board Battery Chargers - MK 460PC (4 bank)

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I really appreciate it. Looks like its going to be easier to leave it mounted in the boat though.

[MikeFloyd]

One more thought. I don't know about MK chargers but my Promariner has the option of using extender cables so you can put the charger in a better location and run cables to the battery.

[Mini]

I think ALL on board chargers have the built in temp sensors as a safety feature. You should NEVER cut or splice the leads. That is why all manufacturers sell extension leads.

But if you are willing to risk it....The Anderson multipole connectors are what we use in our military designs. Just make sure you get the right size or bigger

[Meleagris1]

I think ALL on board chargers have the built in temp sensors as a safety feature. You should NEVER cut or splice the leads. That is why all manufacturers sell extension leads.

But if you are willing to risk it....The Anderson multipole connectors are what we use in our military designs. Just make sure you get the right size or bigger

This is what MK says about splicing leads, its straight from their instruction manual (345PC) . . .

4) CHARGER LOCATION AND MOUNTING
a) Locate charger as far away from battery as the dc cables permit.

b) Never place charger above battery being charged; gases from battery will corrode and damage charger.

c) Never allow battery acid to drip on charger when reading electrolyte specific gravity or filling battery.

d) Do not operate charger in a closed-in area or restrict ventilation in any way.

e) Do not set a battery on top of charger.

f) Do not mount the charger below the waterline of the boat or directly adjacent to fuel tanks.

g) Each DC output cord is six feet long. Make sure that all DC output cords can reach the batteries and that the AC power cord can reach a
power source. When using an extension cord, make the AC connection to the charger outside of the battery compartment as far away as
practical to reduce the risk of a spark igniting gasses in the compartment.

h) Each output cord is equipped with a temperature sensor. By monitoring external temperature, the battery charger adjusts the charging profile
of the battery to assure full charge without overcharging or undercharging the battery. Attempting to shorten the output wires could damage
the temperature sensor and affect the charger output.

i) If the DC battery leads are not long enough, they may be lengthened by splicing and soldering 12 AWG (minimum) wire. Each splice should
be covered with dual wall adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to protect the joint from corroding. The splice should be made between the
fork in the output cable and the fuse holder. The fuse holder should always remain within 7” of the battery terminals. The maximum extension length is 15 feet. You may contact the Minn Kota Service Department with any questions. Do not splice the AC power cord, as this
voids the three year Limited Warranty.