Switch from Steel to Aluminum Trailer couple questions...

[78Staff]

So, my 2016 Skeeter EZ-Loader trailer basically was rusting out due to good old Florida Brackish water, so recently had a local trailer shop build me out a custom Aluminum replacement trailer. It's a bit different from a Skeeter OEM/EZLoader, which is to be expected. But I did have a couple questions...

Guide Poles - they installed guide poles - which I didn't ask for but I guess is pretty common on aluminum builds, at least for saltwater boats? Not sure if I really need them - I already had to adjust them since they installed them tight to the rub rail and didn't allow for the middle of the cap getting wider. I guess they don't hurt anything, but the PVC tube does rattle a bit. Is it normal for these to be common PVC tube over an aluminum upright? TBH it looks kind cheap/cheesey.

Also, they installed my boat buckles at a "strait-back" angle instead of being turned 90* to the frame like you would commonly see on bass boat trailers - I didn't think much of it at the time. Skeeter does somewhat limit how/where these can be installed due to the transon sponsons. But looking at it now, the "blades" of aluminum sticking back from the frame give me a bit of pause. I mean, they are lower than the bunks, and I don't suspect I could hit them with the hull loading/unloading, but figured I would get some other opinions?

I could always pull them off, maybe get a 90* bend put in them and remount? Maybe even drill a lower hole to lower them down a bit on the mounting blade? Or is it nothing to be conerned about?

[doyce]

I had an aluminum trailer made for my bassboat for the same reason. They did not add the guide posts. You could remove them for aesthetics but they don’t hurt anything.

Looks like your boat buckles were an after thought by the way they have been added. My builder forgot the boat buckles as well. When I went to pick up the trailer I saw they were missing. He built a box and welded it to the frame so it would be parallel to the frame and accessible to remove if needed. He left no sharp edges. I don’t think you will have any issues with the mounts where they are but my only concern is that they are held on with a u-bolt. At least you have the option to move them as needed.

[78Staff]

yeah I agree re it being an afterthought - looks like he just grabbed some plate stock, vs something nicer like your welded setup which is what the oem trailer had as well. The build took almost 3x as long as promised and I suspect at the end he was just rushing to get it done since I was pressing him to get my boat back.

As I understand it, in a real accident Boat Buckles really aren't going to hold anyway for the most part, I look at them more of a "bounce control" kind of thing, so the ubolts (vs welded) didn't concern me. I actually don't even run them super tight, just snug-ish, but maybe I am wrong.

[1Holeshot]

So what do you guys with new aluminum bass boat trailers do with your original steel trailers?

I have ordered an aluminum trailer for my Triton 18 TRX and need to find a home for the original trailer?

I appreciate the ideas about mounting transom straps on the aluminum trailers.

[Eric ZX190]

I also have to deal with brackish water where I fish. I ordered my new boat with an aluminum trailer. I was very happy that Phoenix offered that as a factory option as most bass boat manufacturers only offer a painted steel trailer.

[Tromanoski]

So what do you guys with new aluminum bass boat trailers do with your original steel trailers?

I have ordered an aluminum trailer for my Triton 18 TRX and need to find a home for the original trailer?

I appreciate the ideas about mounting transom straps on the aluminum trailers.

I got one for my Ranger from McClain Trailer in Houston and they kept my wrecked Ranger Trail trailer.

[doyce]

I sold my trailer. It was still usable and not in terrible shape yet. Since I’m in brackish water I wanted to get ahead of the problem.

[1Holeshot]

I sold my trailer. It was still usable and not in terrible shape yet. Since I’m in brackish water I wanted to get ahead of the problem.

I have no idea what mine is worth. Any ranges low to high?

[78Staff]

So what do you guys with new aluminum bass boat trailers do with your original steel trailers?

I have ordered an aluminum trailer for my Triton 18 TRX and need to find a home for the original trailer?

I appreciate the ideas about mounting transom straps on the aluminum trailers.

TBH, I just left it with the Trailer Builder... we actually canabalized a few parts ie my slick bunks, jack, winch, buckles etc and wheels also, so it's essentially just a frame at this point. While the frame was in ok (but not great shape, shape, the torsion axles were shot and the fenders/steps/axle mounting points etc were rusted quite a bit, so would need to be cut out and new metal welded in, etc.

[78Staff]

So, my 2016 Skeeter EZ-Loader trailer basically was rusting out due to good old Florida Brackish water, so recently had a local trailer shop build me out a custom Aluminum replacement trailer. It's a bit different from a Skeeter OEM/EZLoader, which is to be expected. But I did have a couple questions...

Guide Poles - they installed guide poles - which I didn't ask for but I guess is pretty common on aluminum builds, at least for saltwater boats? Not sure if I really need them - I already had to adjust them since they installed them tight to the rub rail and didn't allow for the middle of the cap getting wider. I guess they don't hurt anything, but the PVC tube does rattle a bit. Is it normal for these to be common PVC tube over an aluminum upright? TBH it looks kind cheap/cheesey.

Also, they installed my boat buckles at a "strait-back" angle instead of being turned 90* to the frame like you would commonly see on bass boat trailers - I didn't think much of it at the time. Skeeter does somewhat limit how/where these can be installed due to the transon sponsons. But looking at it now, the "blades" of aluminum sticking back from the frame give me a bit of pause. I mean, they are lower than the bunks, and I don't suspect I could hit them with the hull loading/unloading, but figured I would get some other opinions?

I could always pull them off, maybe get a 90* bend put in them and remount? Maybe even drill a lower hole to lower them down a bit on the mounting blade? Or is it nothing to be conerned about?

FWIW I launched this weekend without any issues... trailer does sit different, seems to load best with fender out of the water, which was unexpected. Typical Skeeter OEM/EZL loads best with fenders about half covered. Just different config, I suppose, but works fine.

[1Holeshot]

Very interesting and somewhat surprising.

[doyce]

I have no idea what mine is worth. Any ranges low to high?

I tried responding to your IM but it says your mailbox is full and won’t accept any messages until you make room.

[1Holeshot]

I tried responding to your IM but it says your mailbox is full and won’t accept any messages until you make room.

Thank you.

I will delete some PMs now to make room.

[78Staff]

Very interesting and somewhat surprising.

I guess I also should have said, if I though my steel EZL trailer any any real value, I would have taken it back. But since it has so much rust, and we canabalized it for parts in places, it just wasn't worth the hassle to haul it a couple hours home.

[1Holeshot]

I examined my steel trailer again yesterday and it is in better shape than I thought.

Since my new aluminum trailer will be only about 5 miles from where I store my boat, I can put my steel trailer on Craigslist and FB Marketplace and see what offers I get.

Should be more than the scrap metal yard pays.