1996 Johnson running bad - I need help!!

[jay's snake]

1996 200 Johnson

I need some help to get my Johnson running right again.
Last weekend, the engine started fine and idled good for 10 minutes to get out of the boat cove. I then accelerated normally and drove for about 15 minutes at moderate speed.

The problems began after I had stopped the boat for a few minutes. The engine would start and idle fine, but when I put it in gear and try to accelerate, it died over and over again. I tried hitting the choke button, but it did not help.

When I finally made it back to the ramp, I checked the plugs and one plug was pretty oily, but the others looked good with light tan insulators. While on the water, the water pressure was good and the pee hole showed good water flow.

Now for my confession.....I do not have stabil in the tank and I had not run the motor for about 9 months. Does it sound like the carbs are gunked up? If you think that may be the problem, is there a fix short of taking them all off and going through all of the carbs??

Your help is appreciated!!

Jay

[jay's snake]

Ok, I have the powerhead back together and it went together fine.

Question... what is the purpose of the small hoses that are plugged into the block all over?

I noticed one of the fittings where the hoses connect seems to be plugged. How critical is it?

[ChampioNman]

Reciculation hoses and it is very important to have proper flow and idle characteristics.

[jay's snake]

I noticed the Pulse Limiter Fitting blows both ways. Isn't this supposed to have a check valve in it? Would this affect the operation of the VRO system?


Also, i used vacuum line to replace the recirculation hoses. I was having a hard time finding the right size. Will that work or does it have to be fuel line?

Thanks!

[ChampioNman]

They have changed the design for the pulse limiter now so it does go both ways. The vacuum hose will work fine for that purpose.

[jay's snake]

Championman, any idea where this plate and these studs go?

[jay's snake]

Everything is going together great. the toughest part was lifting the powerhead back onto the rest of the motor. I'm not sure how much is weighs, but it was a challenge for me and my son to hold it there and place it on the studs slowly. I would recommend a hoist.

[jay's snake]

Nevermind, I figured out the studs go in the back of the powerpack and the plate holds the wires in the front of the cowling.

[bamabassmaster]

Hope everything works out for you.

[jay's snake]

Well everything is back together and I am going to try starting it up tomorrow (after mom's day festivities of course).

I'm more than a little concerned that I really cannot say exactly what caused the meltdown. I took the #2 carb apart and did not find anything clogged. I checked the jets in all of the carbs and here is what I found for the high speed and intermediate jets:

#1 65D 20
#2 67D 20
#3 65D 20
#4 65D 23
#5 65D 23
#6 65D 23

#2 already has the bigger high speed jet, but why do #1, 2 and 3 have a smaller intermediate jet?

As far as the VRO system goes, I have not taken it apart because I feel it went lean and was not an oiling issue. Anyone think otherwise??

[ChampioNman]

Well everything is back together and I am going to try starting it up tomorrow (after mom's day festivities of course).

I'm more than a little concerned that I really cannot say exactly what caused the meltdown. I took the #2 carb apart and did not find anything clogged. I checked the jets in all of the carbs and here is what I found for the high speed and intermediate jets:

#1 65D 20
#2 67D 20
#3 65D 20
#4 65D 23
#5 65D 23
#6 65D 23

#2 already has the bigger high speed jet, but why do #1, 2 and 3 have a smaller intermediate jet?

As far as the VRO system goes, I have not taken it apart because I feel it went lean and was not an oiling issue. Anyone think otherwise??

Really can't answer the ? about the intermediates, someone may have changed them playing around. If you want order 3 23's and put them in. Make sure the drain plugs are the new style with the "tit" on them to keep the HS orifices seated. Don't take the VRO apart, you are just asking for troubles.

[jay's snake]

Ok, I'll leave the VRO alone. What's the best way to tell if it's working correctly?

[ChampioNman]

The procedure is in the service manual. But for quick ref, mix portable tank 50:1 hook to fuel side. Connect a 10" section of clear tubing to oil side. Make marks on the tube every 1/2" for 4" and hold it so there is a U in it fill with OB oil to the top mark and start motor. Oil should drop by X amount of motor pulses. Could have a clogged Pulse limiter fitting if the oil doesn't drop in the number of pulses. Pretty sure it is 6-8 pulses and the level should drop 3". Shop is closed today so I'm going off memory on the test but it is in the fuel section Chapter 2 of the manual.

[jay's snake]

Here's the latest update....

It turns over great, but could not get it to start. I did get it to kick a few times, but I suspect the plugs may be fouled. I squirted some 2 stroke oil in the spark plug holes before I installed the plugs to give it a little extra lubrication, but I may have fouled the plugs. I also mixed the fuel with 50:1 oil in addition to the VRO for break-in as per the book.

One concern I have is the #2 carb is spitting out fuel out of the pipe in the venturi. I took it apart thinking the float is sticking open, but it kept doing it after I put it back together. It's got to be the float or the needle valve right?

[ChampioNman]

Yep. Primer bulb firm. Motor level. Hit choke twice, kill switch on, Vrooommmm two cranks. To prove your point you can move them. Should follow the carb. If not bad reed.

[jay's snake]

Here's the latest.....

I found I only have a spark in cylinders 2 and 4. What the heck?? I know it's been three years since it last ran, but do coils get old?

I attempted to check the voltage on the red wires at the coils, but I don't have a peak reading voltmeter. My voltmeter did register some pulses in voltage.

[ChampioNman]

Flywheel key missing? Recheck your connections from the timer base to the power pack, also make sure the two sets of brown wires from the stator to the power pack didn't get crossed. Easy to do with all the wires in there and tight quarters to work in. Pull the pack off, but leave it connected and make sure the ground is hooked up then crank it up and check spark.

[jay's snake]

How do you know which pair of brown wires plugs into which connector? They are all the same color.

I eliminated the coils by substitution. It's got to be the power pack , stator or wiring.

[jay's snake]

making some progress....

I think one set of brown wires may have been pulled loose.
Now, the only cylinders not firing are the bottom two (5 & 6).
I tried re-plugging all the connectors together, but it made no difference.

What is the common connection that would make these two cylinders not fire??

[ChampioNman]

Timer base. If you really examine the PP leads and clean the wires it is pretty evident where they go. This is always a good time to check the manual. The port leads have a difference trace than the starboard side. Brown/orange and brown/white. From stator to pack, they need to match up with the TB leads.