I really like this idea. I have a 4b/36A charger that im hauling around (15lbs) would be nice to take that out as to keep it from the abuse. May have to look in to something like this. Its mounted to my lid. So its easy to get out.... But then ill have 24 screw holes to cover up lol....Originally Posted by mikesxpress
Keith Rose
In search of what was lost.
Great idea. I have the exact same charger. It is just like having a 5th battery in the boat. I think I will do this AND install a carry strap on the charger to lug to tournaments.
Great Idea..
Instead of each individual battery having its own leads..why not use a 36V charger and charge all the batteries in series? Then you only need 2 banks (1 for trolling batteries and 1 for cranking). I use the dual pro eagle series i3625 36V 25Amps with a RS1 12V 6 amps mounted to it. Then use the quick connects that stay connected to my batteries all the time. I just plug them in when its time to charge.
Am running 3 LA batteries for troller, AGM for cranking. Seems original post is pretty dammed slick for individual charging of each battery and monitor the charge of each individual battery.
Last edited by electritek; 09-14-2020 at 09:02 PM.
2020 Ranger 521L Tour, 300 Mercury, 112 Minn Kota Ultrex
3 12" Helix Units, Mega Si, Mega Di, Mega 360, Garmin 8412 W LiveScope mounted on Rite Hite Turret.
The charger with Delta Volt charges each battery individually and senses the charge going in tailoring it to each battery including 5 stage float. Charging all of them in series just dumps full charge to the entire bank. Allot of overcharging is going to occur and shorten the life of the batteries.
As long as they are of the same type, age and state of charge then it is ok. If there were huge voltage inbalances then there would be issues but then the processor would shut it down because the current would spike. But the charger does no know the difference in how many plates are in the battery configuration.
Disagree..they have on board diagnostics that regulate the output.
For the entire series not for each battery. I would want to see the specs on the charger.
That is the reason for the Delta Volt and an individual charger for each battery. I just came back and in <15 minutes the cranking battery was green/topped off. TM one 3 out of 5 leds, TM two & three 4 of 5. Crank is a year newer than the rest and the TM batteries are always discharged more than the cranking battery.
Mike I sent you a PM
Lester makes a charger that plugs into your trolling motor receptacle that is available in 24V or 36V. I know a lot of the pros that use a Lester charger and have great results. Granted it doesn't charge your crank battery but, that's a pretty easy fix with a 10amp automatic charger. If you go to Basscat's website you can order and or view the charger I'm referring to.
Response there Ted.
There is association of a charger's "Green" indicator and the charging being complete with the battery being "topped off" however the charging continues on.........the cranking battery was green/topped off.
Pro Charging Systems (design) has indicated that their lights illuminate based on charger's corresponding charging voltages as they are being applied. Previously was provided a table of voltages along with the details of the Delta Volt profile's charging stages.
The Green light illuminates (flashes) as the charging is able to raise the voltage to a level of ~14.52 - 15.49 volts , a level that corresponds to the ending of the Bulk (increasing voltages) and Absorption (constant voltage) charging stages.
So a flashing green light represents the battery reaching at least 90% of its' actual full capacity and needing additional time for the remaining Finish Stage to complete before entering for a while Maintenance charging indicated by a solid Green and a corresponding drop in voltage to ~13.5V.
Following Maintenance charging is an Equalization stage that occurs prior to entering a lengthy 30 day 'environmental float' stage. Then the charging cycles through again.
It's another reason best to leave this charger ( located inside or out of boat) plugged in after 1st seeing a green light, powered 24/7 whenever possible or at least let it remain over-night when used on heavily discharged batteries.
Last edited by Lou r Pitcher; 12-06-2016 at 10:39 AM.
Lou could you please share the table?
Sure....moved to start a new topic....
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....07#post7907907
Last edited by Lou r Pitcher; 12-06-2016 at 10:58 AM.
As most of us are using AGM's/PM1's what would the % be for those?
I understood that the Dual-Pro has a thermal sensor in the cable, did you cut that out or relocate it?
Their FAQ says it is OK to extend the cable, but it needs to be done at the ring lug end, not at the charger side.
http://www.dualpro.com/support/faq-troubleshooting/
Q: Can I extend the charge cables on my PCS charger?
A: Yes, you can extend the charge cables, but it is very important that you do so by adding the cable at the ring terminal location and NOT by cutting into the black casing that the red and black wires emerge from. The temperature sensor is located in the epoxied area where the black casing terminates and if you cut the cable between this area and the charger, that bank of the charger will not operate correctly. It is recommended that a minimum of 14 AWG cable be used for lengthening.
Thanks
Mine has been relocated since last year. I did not use the small thermal sensor wires. Terminated them at the cut. Each terminal is fused and that covers the safety aspect. The 25' run and that small gage thermal sensor wire effectively made it useless IMO. The charger continues to operate flawlessly.
Rzone makes a good point of Dual Pros recommendation to not cut the provided wiring and only extend the wires.
Cutting the wiring (before the Y) as done in this thread eliminates the temperature sensor signal from the wiring. That results in the Dual Pro being unable to correctly temperature compensate the charging voltages being applied to the battery.
Temp compensation allows the charger to fully charge a battery without over-charging or boiling away the electrolyte needlessly or possibly damaging an AGM causing it to vent its normally sealed gasses. The sensor included at the 'Y' junction in the Dual Pro charging lead does not have to be physically at the battery....just exposed to the same ambient temperatures as the battery.
For others considering to mount their charger outside of the boat, by cutting/splicing their charger's wires for extension after the black casing 'Y' and before the fuse holders/ ring terminals would still permit reuse of the fuse holders and ring terminals while successfully retaining their charger's important temp sensing/compensation feature.
Last edited by Lou r Pitcher; 03-17-2017 at 11:36 AM.
Reply With Quote