got home and tested all the sensors. no problem there. all in spec at all temp ranges... timing light check will happen next time im out
got home and tested all the sensors. no problem there. all in spec at all temp ranges... timing light check will happen next time im out
Faulty ignition coil maybe
OR an intermittent STATOR winding....Originally Posted by Wisfarmer
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
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Or bad grounds...
I was chasing a spark problem on mine, hooked to a spark board it was weak and the miss would move from cylinder to cylinder.
I ran 12 ga wires from the negative post of the starter to every ground I could find on mine (94 carb 225 3.0), and it started cracking lighting across the spark board.
Just a thought.
Yeah,I hope so. That's what I'm gonna look for with the light. It's something really dumb like that. Ran 72 mph today with 2 guys loaded down,so the motor is sound otherwise apparently.
VERY good point, and often overlooked. I've seen several cases where the internal "harness" grounds were compromised/weak.
I actually recommend adding TWO 10ga ground wires on this engine series, if there is ANY question:
1. 10 gauge ground lead from TOP of coil plate (at one of the bolts retaining coil ground leaks), up over the top of the block, down into electrical plate cover, and attached to the BATTERY CABLE GROUND BOLT.
2. 10 gauge ground lead from RIGHT-BOTTOM bolt of lower ECU, under the starboard cylinder head, up into electrical plate cover, and attached to same BATTERY CABLE GROUND BOLT.
This helps to ensure good, solid (and redundant) grounds to the critical ignition and fuel components at the rear of the engine.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
ill go ahead and add that too. it cant hurt. lol. i was in a lot of 10 mph zones this weekend and that where this problem really shines. trying to kjeep the boat in the 10 mph area is hard. just when i give it just enough to bump the speed up a notch,thats when i hit a dead spot and it loses power. then i have to throttle way up to overcome it. still feels tps related. i rechecked that when i got home and the range of voltage seems odd. the lower and upper range is right, but throughout the range is what seems odd. from idle up to about where im having the stall (a little over half throttle) ,im only seeing the voltage go from 1- 1.4ish. then the rest of the range comes on progressively faster up to 3.8 at full throttle. maybe its made that way, or maybe it should increase more even across the board. thought about grabbing up a used one just to compare the readings
Try reading TPS voltage while operating the ROLLER (moving the roller progressively away from the cam).
You should see smooth/steady increases in voltage as the roller moves AWAY from the cam, and smooth/steady DECREASES in voltage as you return the roller to the cam.
Any "glitches" (voltage hangs, or jumps in the wrong direction momentarily) should be considered a FAULTY TPS.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
ill try that and see if theres any difference. it still has the 'surge' also at about 2800 rpm or so if you hold it steady. about a 200 rpm surge,and if you ease past it a hair, thats when it falls on its face. unless , you full throttle it to get it to go on and go past it.
Also keep in mind, most any 2-stroke will have a "flat spot" where the reeds are transitioning from "mostly closed" to "mostly open" in their duration.
You probably ran an older carb-model two stroke at one time or another that exhibited this... it was often audibly noticeable with a telltale "blurble" sound (and moving either side of this RPM range corrected the problem). It's seldom noted on bassboats, as most of them don't remain on plane in the 2000-3000 RPM range (and are seldom run in this RPM range).
A "glitchy" TPS in this RPM range would make it very pronounced, however.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
i have not done the ground wire thing yet, as i have nnot had the time. but last weekend i was noticing (again) how hard it was to get the tps to repeat what i set it at and to get the max reading of 3.8V. now i know why. there is way too much slop invloved in the connection and its not worn either. so i bumped it past spec up to 1.15v and i never had one issue getting on plane all day. so , just for giggles, i took it apart and shimmed the flat on the half moon to get a good snug fit with shim stock. now i can set it on 1.00V and it hits 3.84V EVERY time and returns to 1.00v EVERY time like it should. before , due to the slop you could only have one or the other or some form of in between, and when set 'right ' at idle would only pull 3.68V wide open. i get the same readings with the roller or the throttling from the dash. if nothing else, at least its more precise now. will report back if any changes this weekend.
Good catch.... and if the shim material tightens up the link (and will REMAIN in place indefinitely)- good job.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
yeah, it cant come out
Must have been a lot of the issue. I went out yesterday and never had an issue all day. It planed out every time,and I never felt or heard the rpms drop after starting it like it had been. The only thing now is that it just seems like the prop is just a hair too much for hole shot. But it's never been fast out of the hole anyway. I may get a 26 tempest and see if that wakes it up. As heavy as this boat is and from what I've seen, a 26 fury is just too much.
Which prop do you have on it now?
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
26 fury
No plugs in the Fury, correct?
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Nope. And 3 extra 5/16 holes to boot.lol
That should be providing more than enough ventilation... perhaps something less steep in pitch (as you mentioned earlier).
Every tried a Trophy Plus (or a Bravo-1 FS)?
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
a trophy was another i thought of using. is the fury comparable to a 27 pitch in other common props? would a 26 trophy be like stepping down a pitch since its a 4 blade\? or should it be a 25?
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