Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 59 of 59
  1. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Junction City, KS
    Posts
    136
    #41
    No worries, I've learned a bit already... the switch checks out ok. In response to ChampioNman the VRO is removed but the pump is still present on the fuel module assembly. I'm assuming the fuel is being delivered to the filter then the vapor separator and then on to the VRO injection pump. Since pulling the pulling the purple/white solenoid still blew the fuse I'm going to disconnect the main red ampenol connector and then see if it pops the fuse.

    I have a Clymer Evinrude/Johnson outboard manual for years 91-94.

    I've also noticed that the lanyard kill switch doesn't have connectors on the back end of it. It's completely closed off so I'm going to go ahead and strip the wires right behind it. I'm praying that the problem with it not wanting to start and flooding is a malfunctioning kill switch.
    Last edited by RisenAngel; 05-24-2013 at 06:11 AM. Reason: Added info

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
    Posts
    72,113
    #42
    The kill switch wires go to the ignition switch. Follow the link I posted on the switch wiring.

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Junction City, KS
    Posts
    136
    #43
    I just tested the lanyard kill switch with my multimeter set to ohms. there are 2 black/yellow wires coming off it and 1 black. I think 1 goes to the ignition switch and the other to the ignition itself. On the meter it showed near zero both with the button pushed in and with it popped out. That doesn't sound right to me... shouldn't it show a 1 (no continuity) at some point?

  4. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
    Posts
    72,113
    #44
    Read the section about the key in the off position in the link I put up it will answer your question.

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Junction City, KS
    Posts
    136
    #45
    Thanks again

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Junction City, KS
    Posts
    136
    #46
    Woohoo I've narrowed in on the faulty circuit! Thanks ChampionNman for the link I used that and the manual and made my own inline fuse with bullet connectors and disconnected the main harness. Using 2 of my homemade lines I made a solid connection to the constant power and used a 15a fuse (since im blowing 20a fuses) and connected all of the secondary connections one at a time. The only connection to blow the 15a fuse 4x is the prime circuit. I pulled the primer solenoid off the engine and took it apart looked at it and did an ohm test for continuity and it tests out ok. I'll test for continuity against the harness prime wires and ground for a short and then all that's left is a faulty ignition switch.

  7. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Junction City, KS
    Posts
    136
    #47
    Update **** I apologize to anyone if this thread is getting annoyingly long...I figure if someone else runs into this issue my little journey here is detailed enough to help someone else avoid a pitfall (and spend money). I took a known good source of 12v and put to the side of the main harness going directly to the primer solenoid and CLICK! it opened right up. The switch is still testing good but the shop manual states that an ignition switch can test good for ohms and still be faulty, but for that a high voltage test is required... me n high voltage don't mix too well lol so I'm going to replace the switch and if that still blows a fuse it's the wire running from the ignition switch to the main harness ampenol connector. In which case I'll replace the whole damned line with a fresh line and label it purple white on each end and intermittently. More to follow

  8. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Junction City, KS
    Posts
    136
    #48
    The ignition switch was the problem! It fires up without a problem now and the carbs aren't flooding to what I can tell it is however, either stalling out once it comes out of quick start or it accelerates on it's own and the only way to stop it is to turn the engine off or pull the lanyard. i've added a link so you can see below.

    http://www.trinitygsp.com/boat/idle_accelerate1.mp4
    Last edited by RisenAngel; 05-24-2013 at 05:00 PM. Reason: Added video link

  9. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
    Posts
    72,113
    #49
    Can't get link to work takes for ever to come up.

  10. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Junction City, KS
    Posts
    136
    #50
    It's a big file. Let me try to crop it down in file size

  11. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Junction City, KS
    Posts
    136
    #51
    Sorry about that. I forget my connection may be faster than others' I've edited the video down to about 28M so it should load a lot faster. Here is the link http://www.trinitygsp.com/boat/idle_accelerate.mpg

  12. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Junction City, KS
    Posts
    136
    #52
    Got it running! !! Turned out that the gasket on the primer solenoid was reversed. (Silly me! !) Ran it on the mugs for about 15 minutes with no issue.

  13. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
    Posts
    72,113
    #53
    Yippee! Three pages for a self induced issue! Good job, glad you got it running.

  14. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Wichita KS
    Posts
    4,917
    #54
    Good job! A bad switch and a silly me mistake. I can sleep tonight!

  15. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Junction City, KS
    Posts
    136
    #55
    I cant believe a switch and a gasket can do so much to a motor like that. Many lessons learned! I just got back from the lake and it ran strong the whole time. Thank y all again!

  16. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
    Posts
    72,113
    #56
    BTW I tried another PC and couldn't get your file to open even after downloading the latest Quicktime player.

  17. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    West Greenwich RI
    Posts
    2,154
    #57
    Put it on YouTube and link it RisenAngel , here is mine pulling away from a Nitro @60

    1996 STRATOS 278 V
    1996 Intruder 150 HP
    Model 150GLEDB Serial # 04148601
    1991 335195 Heads
    FICHT Reed Cages
    Chris Carson Carbon Fiber Reeds
    Large Bore Carbs
    Prop Mark Croxton A45 15" X 23 Tempest
    Props Owned/Tested: 23 Renegade, 23 Renegade B&B, 22 Raker, 24 Raker, 24 Raker B&B, 26 Raker, 26 Raker II, 24 Raker II, 23 Tempest, 24 Tempest, 24 Fury, 24 Trophy, 25 Renegade, 27 Renegade, 23 Razor 3.

  18. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Junction City, KS
    Posts
    136
    #58


    Here is the link sorry about that. It's encoded in a format fit for windows based players and not quicktime.

  19. 9/11 - Never forget markheb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Nixa, MO
    Posts
    3,824
    #59
    Thanks for posting what it took to get it running. So many times threads go on and on with suggestions, but when (I assume) they get it fixed or running correctly, forget to post the solution.
    "Do not believe everything you read or see on the internet" -- Abraham Lincoln.

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123