I will try that. that is a good idea. I thank you very much for your suggestion.
I will try that. that is a good idea. I thank you very much for your suggestion.
I would try the remote tank first, just to make sure that is your problem and save a $ or two. Some times the selector switch can be faulty, gummed up, etc causing fuel restrictions. Most can be dismantled for visual inspection.
Why did they not do this test in the first placel like bassmeister recommneded. You exhausted all local possibilities and as a another or last result decided to try BBc. At this stage, if they do the test and you pay them, what will they charge you to access the tanks? Modifying glass work on the Ranger (uugh) is still less expensive than replacing powerheads which is usually the end result of fuel starvation issues on 2 strokes. Find a few alternatives or advice, to cutting or modifying. The end result is that you have to pull the tubes out.
I thought it may be the selector switch, but I put in a new one 2 months ago. i will also take that aprt and visually inspect the inside. thank you very much
Seahorse. I took off the VRO to check the diaphram. It looked solid. Only problem I have is I know the two wires go onto the starter plate but I cannot recall the thrid wire . WHere do I put that. Anything will help. Thanks.
I took off the VRO, and I am done with it. I will keep it for a future buyer of my boat. I am going to premix based on a lot of advice from local mevhanics and fine people like you. I am going to buy a fuel pump and be done with it. Anyone know whick P/N for the pump? I was told it would be around $50 - $60.00. I am going to remove the battery compartment and take out all intake tubes and replace with new one. This will ensure everything will be new and reduce future problems for a while. Anyone know how to replace VRO with a fuel pump. i would bve very grateful
so then, did you try another remote portable tank and hose? not too sure of your mechanics capabilities if he suggested you should pre mix, but that is your choice, and you still seem to be tunnel visioned about the VRO being faulty (it could be, but you need to know) throwing parts at a motor in blind faith is a sure way to empty your wallet, do some of the very simple low/no cost test mentioned here.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by vegasroll »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I took off the VRO, and I am done with it.
I am going to buy a fuel pump and be done with it. Anyone know whick P/N for the pump? I was told it would be around $50 - $60.00.</td></tr></table>
Your price quote for a pump is miles off. Your 200 need high volume and even then the old dual pump crossflow system and plumbing not only cost in the hundreds $$$ but may not have enough capacity for a looper like yours.
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A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !
I believe he meant he was going electric if I read it right.
Tested with an outside fuel tank., and the engine died after 2 minutes. I ensured that the oil bulb was working also. pulled tube out and oil came out very easily. I did what you recommended, but it did not work. It was a very good idea.
If after all your testing gave these results I would replace the VRO there is a premix pulse driven fuel pump with the oil side removed for about $55.00 less. You can also try to replace both the air motor piston and the fuel pistons and the housing. These are part of the fuel pump rebuild kit.
Thank you for your help. There are alot of decent good people here, who help out.
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