Someone mentioned stator could that possibly be doing it intermittently?? I will check ignition switch but would that stop it from starting even though it cranks ???
Someone mentioned stator could that possibly be doing it intermittently?? I will check ignition switch but would that stop it from starting even though it cranks ???
1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years
If the switch is keeping the stop circuit closed even though it’s in the run or start position. Might read through this.
https://www.go2marine.com/Product-Gu...-1991-2006.pdf
My kill switch is not on my ignition switch if that makes a difference
It does, yours it the old style with the plunger style separate kill switch. Ignition switch changed in 1996 to the MWS style switch with the lanyard that clips to the ignition switch (get home style) that only shuts the engine off when the lanyard is pulled off. The engine will start with it on or off. Part number for your ignition switch is 0508180 1977-1995 model years.Originally Posted by twitch
Last edited by ChampioNman; 05-18-2025 at 07:16 AM.
I replaced my original ignition switch back in 2013. But will check connections ok
Basscat21 came over tonight thanks Jeff,tried to do a few test but we didn't have all the needed equipment to do some of the test,key switch tested good though and leaning towards a stator and then if that maybe power pak but I didn't think PP went working then not or intermitently but I could be wrong .Do power paks come qwith a new optical eye???
Al i had a loose ground wire do pretty much what you're saying your is. Took it to shop & it started perfectly every time so he just started checking & found a wire that had grey soot & tightened it up & ran great for atleast 5 years until it burnt a hole in number one cylinder last summer
The guy I originally brought it too said he checked all the grounds
Basscat 21 read the mentioned article and thinks the readings we got were good,but is now leaning towards some kind of switch in or near the throttle handle ,we are having a spring Nor Easter right now so will have to wait a day or 2 before I can try that stuff with the throttle ...lol
CDI has a kit with power pack, optical eye, and plug wires. OEM packs do not come with the EET. Don't mix and match.
Simply__M gave us a little insight we are gonna try out tomorrow and see what happens
As Usual the Guru was right ChampioNman said to check the ingnition switch and when we did the wire came right off the terminal and we put it back and tightened it up and pow right to life , thanks for all those that gave me insight and something to go on and Jeff, Basscat 21 for all his help with trying to nail this down.
Was fun Twitch! Always willing to lend a hand.
Glad to help.
On the water today no start again this sucks
When you are on the water and it won't start trim it up so the prop is out of the water and see if it starts. You may not be turning enough RPM to crank with back pressure on it. Needs to spin at least 250 RPMs to generate spark. How did you test the ignition switch? I'm still leaning towards a bad switch or corrosion on the wires at the switch.
What is the part number for a new key switch with choke and what would cause it not to have enough rpms??? never had that problem before ???
I ordered anew ignition switch this morning 0508180 hope this is the right one ,for the money good to have an extra in case I need it , old boat parts are starting to wear and storing outside 24/7 all year probably doesn't help.
What would cause it not to start under back pressure
Engine not spinning fast enough needs to spin at least 250 to generate spark.
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