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  1. Member
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    #21
    Btw ordered my upper mount and gasket today. Should be here next week.

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #22


    Done my compression test after the warm up. Every cly was from 98-102. Does that seem a little low? I got pics of every cly. Cant post with my phone. Those numbers are fine for your motor, it is a low compression motor.
    Also check out my tac at about 20 sec mark in the video. What is causing that? Loose connection? Check the battery connections, no wing nuts. Bad tac? Put your multimeter on the cranking battery and check the voltage before starting then start it and see if the voltage increases. You can also insert a small screwdriver into the pole select switch on the back of the tach and give it a few twist and then set it back to 6 there may be a bit of corrosion internally.

    I think you can also get a better idea of how the motor is shaking and wobbling just at idle.
    All the plugs are very wet? What am i looking for on a plug
    Mine are very wet and look to be "almost oily" Check your head temps they should be ~ 145* F also check your recirc valves they are probably clogged. Thermostats may stuck open or missing.
    Ton of smoke also is it getting to much oil? Are you premixing? The ratio should be 50:1.
    Sorry for all the questions. Not to familiar with these 2stroke motors. I need all the help i can get.

  3. Member
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    #23
    Im pretty sure you might be on to something because as it was warming up. I never really heard a tone change for over 10 mins seemed to be idling a little high i could put my hand on the heads. The starboard side warmed a little not much though but the port side kinda stayed cool to the touch.this was after 10_12 mins of idleing. I tried to goose the throttle a little to see if that would change the motor tone but it never really idled down.

  4. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #24
    It's not going to really idle down until you submerge the lower unit to create back pressure on the exhaust.

  5. Member
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    #25
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    It's not going to really idle down until you submerge the lower unit to create back pressure on the exhaust.
    10/4

    Should i have been able to hold my hand on the heads and it barely feel warm on one side and not warm at all on the other? A very noticeable difference in temperatures. It had been running atleast 10 mins. Should i have let if warm longer. dont think my neighbor liked it to much when i fired it up he came running to peek out his back door.

    Also i am not premixing. It is still running the VRO The guy i bought it from told me that he puts seafoam in the fuel tank that could be adding to the smoke. But the plugs look very oily with right much carbon build up. (dont have a pic i will post a couple tomorrow) I dont know how long the plugs have been in that motor neither could have something to do with it also.

  6. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #26
    Pick up an IR (infrared) temp gun it will quickly give you the temps. You can get one at Harbor Freight, Lowe's, Home Depot. A quick test for your Tach is to unplug the VRO wiring harness and see if it stabilizes. You only have to do this for a few minutes and it will not harm the motor. If the motor doesn't get up to temp it will run rich. Make sure you install the correct plugs for your motor. Champion plugs only(QL77JC4). And as I stated earlier test your recirculation valves, they act like a scavenger valve to remove excess unburned gas oil mix from the intake and inject it to the cylinders.

  7. Member
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    #27
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    Pick up an IR (infrared) temp gun it will quickly give you the temps. You can get one at Harbor Freight, Lowe's, Home Depot. A quick test for your Tach is to unplug the VRO wiring harness and see if it stabilizes. You only have to do this for a few minutes and it will not harm the motor. If the motor doesn't get up to temp it will run rich. Make sure you install the correct plugs for your motor. Champion plugs only(QL77JC4). And as I stated earlier test your recirculation valves, they act like a scavenger valve to remove excess unburned gas oil mix from the intake and inject it to the cylinders.
    I think i have found my tack problem. I have 2 broken wires where they connect to the tack itself. Just hanging on by a couple strands of wire and less than half of the insulation.


    How do i check the re-circulation valves? i looked for them in the manual.And how do i clean if they are clogged? Dont have You tube at work.

    If i was to replace or clean thermostat i did not see a part number for the gasket. do i need a gasket or use the gasket sealant only?

  8. Member
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    #28
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    Looks like to me the steering arm bushings are worn out, everything has to come off, power head, lower unit and swivel bracket to replace them. Upper looks OK but you may want to replace it while you have the head off. Good luck. Order everything in the steering arm section. From the Nut up to the top of the bracket.
    Is this the kit you are talking about? Part #0173700 for the kit or

    1 0122840 NUT, Pivot 1 $9.00 USD Available Add to Cart
    2 0122841 SPACER, Pivot 1 $18.50 USD Available Add to Cart
    3 0123178 BOLT, Steering connector 1 $11.75 USD Available Add to Cart
    4 0315077 LOCKNUT, Stainless steel 2 $8.50 USD
    Add to Cart
    5 0319453 WASHER

  9. Member
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    #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Redman79 View Post
    Is this the kit you are talking about? Part #0173700 for the kit or

    1 0122840 NUT, Pivot 1 $9.00 USD Available Add to Cart
    2 0122841 SPACER, Pivot 1 $18.50 USD Available Add to Cart
    3 0123178 BOLT, Steering connector 1 $11.75 USD Available Add to Cart
    4 0315077 LOCKNUT, Stainless steel 2 $8.50 USD
    Add to Cart
    5 0319453 WASHER

    nevermind i think i se what you are talking about.
    N

  10. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #30
    If it isn't your upper mount (not often), it is the steering arm etc., so you are going to repeat your work. But on a good note you'll know how to pull the power head!

  11. Member
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    #31
    So i was looking on the Evinrude Johnson site to get a gasket part number for the thermostat covers. I dont know if im blind or not but i do not see a gasket.(unless it is the diaphragm) the manual it says
    "2. Tap the cover with a soft hammer to break
    the gasket seal, then remove the cover.
    3. Remove the gasket, thermostat, O-ring, spring
    and pressure valve. Discard the gasket and
    O-ring."
    I was going to take them out and see if i needed new ones or if i could clean them.
    I dont want to unless i have parts on hand to put it back together.

  12. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #32
    #0394408 is the gasket/diaphragm the Venatherm (thermostat) screws into it and you apply gasket sealer on the surface prior to install. #0434107 is the number for the T'stats.

  13. Member
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    #33
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    #0394408 is the gasket/diaphragm the Venatherm (thermostat) screws into it and you apply gasket sealer on the surface prior to install. #0434107 is the number for the T'stats.
    Im getting a different number for the Tstats.
    104 0394409 THERMOSTAT ASSY.

  14. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #34
    Quote Originally Posted by Redman79 View Post
    Im getting a different number for the Tstats.
    104 0394409 THERMOSTAT ASSY.
    Finger check, shoot me.

  15. Member
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    #35
    No biggie just wanted to make sure i was right. My confidence level is not up to par when im venturing into something new!!! I greatly appreciate all your advice so far. I have been reading some older posts and im sure you feel like a broken record sometimes. Glad you have the patients to deal with amateurs like me!!!!

  16. Member
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    #36
    Ok i am in the process of removing power head. Manual say to remove 4 screws and 1 nut from each side and 2 screws and 1 nut from rear. So depending on what you count the rear i only have a nut and i have 4 bokts on each side and the nut in the front. Reason im trying to clear this up is, this power head is not wanting to come off. Do i just have to work with it to get it off??

    To be clear i have removed 4bolts from each side 2 nuts up front and 1 nut in the rear and shift link.

  17. Member
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    #37
    Double post

  18. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #38
    You have a factory manual for your model year motor or someone elses? The parts catalog helps immensely the first time you pull one. Don't forget to disconnect the shift rod screw. And the front two nuts and bolts on each side of the steering arm. All use a 1/2" socket to remove but the motor needs to be trimmed up all the way.. Remove the bolt and nut on the right side and then turn the motor to remove the left side. Trim motor down so you can lift. There are 16 nuts and bolts to remove I may be off one.

  19. Member
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    #39
    Removal/Installation
    (1986-on UO-140 hp V4
    and 200-225 hp V6)
    NOTE
    If your engine is not equipped with power
    steering , omit those steps in the
    procedure which refer to it and proceed
    with the next step in sequence.
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Remove the bracket holding the power
    steering hoses.
    3. Disconnect the water hose at the fitting inside
    the starboard lower engine cover.
    4. Loosen the 4 lower engine cover screws and
    remove one lower cover half with spring clip at
    a time.
    5. Loosen the nut and lockwasher to release
    tension on the power steering belt idler pulley.
    Remove the pulley from the flywheel assembly.
    6. Remove the flywheel as described in this
    chapter with OMC universal puller part No.
    378103.
    7. Remove the screws holding the stator
    assembly to the engine block. Tilt the stator and
    pulley to remove the screws holding the power
    steering reservoir to the engine block. Remove
    the power steering assembly from the power head
    without disconnecting any hydraulic lines and
    place to one side out of the way.
    8. Disconnect the power trim wiring harnesses
    at the power head.
    9. Remove the shift rod pin.
    10. Remove 4 screws and 1 nut from each side
    holding the exhaust housing to the power head.
    11. Remove 2 screws and 1 nut holding the rear
    of the power head to the exhaust adapter.
    12. Thread OMC lifting eye part No. 396748 or
    equivalent to the crankshaft

  20. Member
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    #40
    It does help when all the bolts are removed!! Just saying.. Thanks championman!! Power head is removed and installing upper mount.

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