key switch question ?

[273 DC]

Where can i get a replacement switch with the push in for choke and the kill switch on the switch. Just like the factory one? How much do they tend to run $ wise?
My problem is while fishing the other day after making a run to my next spot, I turned key to the "off". and motor still running pulled kill switch off, motor still running. When I turned the key off it made the motor die down like running on 3 cycl. or something but would not shut it off. I had to choke it to die out. Any help would be thankful.. Tommy

[SEAHORSE]

It is probably not your key switch but more likely a break or open connection in one of the black-yellow or black-orange "kill wires" by the pack.

[273 DC]

Seahorse it did not do it every time. At blast off it work fine for about 5 different runs. Around mid-day I ran about 10 mile to upper part of the lake and switched it off and it kept running, then pulled kill switch and also kept runing. Choked it out that time, fished about a 1 hr or so. Started motor idled out of cove and switched off just tho test it out, it worked fine. Ran to another spot and switched off, worked fine again. Made long run back to ramp. Get there and tried it again before putting on trailer, turned key off, motor stays running. These wires you talk about are they at the power pack? Is that the pack you are refering to? Thanks

[Troy250]

I just had a very similiar problem and found that the wire had broken in the wiring harness where it goes into the cowling. I guess from all the twisting/turning over the years, those wires will eventually break. I ran a decoy line from the ignition switch to the solenoid and found that the wire was the problem and not the ignition switch. Like yours, my problem was intermitten....


Modified by Troy250 at 12:48 PM 3/22/2010

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 273 DC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seahorse it did not do it every time.

These wires you talk about are they at the power pack? Is that the pack you are refering to? Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>


Check the single pin round connectors for wires that are broken or loose at the crimped area of the pins or sockets.

[juanjuice]

mine was the same way and it was the black and yelleow wires you can get a meter and put it on the buzzer mode for connection take the plug apart and touch each end at the same time to seeif you have a connection do the other one as well more thanlikely thats it

[ChampioNman]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juanjuice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine was the same way and it was the black and yelleow wires you can get a meter and put it on the buzzer mode for connection take the plug apart and touch each end at the same time to seeif you have a connection do the other one as well more thanlikely thats it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Better re-read the manual Juan.

[273 DC]

Hold up Champ. What is wrong with that post. Something I should not do or what?

Also thanks Seahorse and to all the other guys for the help. I just have just finished some work on the motor had had the lower hood off hanging by the wires. So that very well might be my problem. It never did it until the first time I really ran it for a while after the work.

[ChampioNman]

I had to re-read Juan's post. Sometimes he has run on words and it doesn't come across to me some of his verbiage. Now I understand what he is saying. Yep that will work.

[273 DC]

I think if "I" am reading it right. All he is doing is just checking the singal through each individual wire. Am I correct ?

[ChampioNman]

You are checking continuity on each wire some meters offer a tone that sounds when you have continuity.

[273 DC]