'96 Blazer 202 Pro V Project

[XpressYoSelf]

The process has begun! I've recently acquired this mess with a vision of turning it into a fast & furious fishing machine. 1996 Blazer 202 Pro V (Boat and Trailer only) I'll try to update you all with my progress, but the original assessment was this:

Transom was questionable. It felt solid when I bought it (I trimmed the motor up and jumped on it), but severe cracking in the splash well instigated bad thoughts. Floor was questionable. Starboard side felt solid but there was a soft spot on the port side, so I initially planned a partial replacement. Carpet was shot. Obvious need for full replacement. Seats good. Gel coat below the waterline looked surprisingly good with only minor scratches and dings. Paint on the top cap is another story (I'll look for suggestions in the near future). Rod lockers need attention and so does the console. Came with hydraulic steering, three new batteries, and a 10" Rapid Jack plate. Trailer is pretty solid with minimal surface rust. This clearly is a big project- but I think some of you will relate with the vision I have that some of you share with your own projects.

By this weekend I was able to get the cap off and cut all the floor out. What I thought to be a partial replacement initially is turning out to be a full floor job. Thank goodness the stringers are still solid! It was clear the stringers were already replaced at one point. This boat had taken some ABUSE! A previous owner had spray foamed (horribly I might add) and blocked the drains going aft towards the bilge... Geez... The process has begun.

Hopefully I can get these pictures up!

[90bumblebee]

Hell yeah that thing’s bitchin’

[Redneckgearhead]

subbed

[Bassnailer]

Nice! Looking forward to updates!

[HVAC86]

I’ve got a 190 pro V split right now, everything inside has been replaced and the hull is upside down as we speak waiting on fairing Compound to dry!

[XpressYoSelf]

I was able to get about 40% of the transom out yesterday afternoon. I used a 1" bit and hammer drill to start it off, and then came back with a 16" chain saw, crow bar and a shop vac. In addition to the de-lamination, the wood that was removed was pretty damp. Hopefully the remainder of the wood will come out easily. YouTube makes this look way too simple! As I progress, my anxiety increases about being able to reach and get all of the wood out from the bottom of the transom without poking through the bottom of the hull. I'll likely have to pry and chip the rest of the way down, as the 21" transom is more than the 16" chainsaw can reach.

What's y'all's experience with pouring the new transom and installing the splash well drains? Should I tape up the holes and drill new drains holes after it's poured, or should I stick greased (release agent) bolts through for the pour and remove them after?

[music man]

best of luck....following

[Bassnailer]

As for your splash well drains, I haven't poured a new transom, but last winter I resealed my wood transom. I found it was easiest to tape the holes shut and fill them with epoxy, then drill new holes threw the epoxy for the fittings. I would think this would hold true for pouring a new transom one as well. It's a lot easier to drill new holes through the material than to try to cast holes in the right location. You are making good progress, keep up the good work!

[XpressYoSelf]

I'll agree with you on that, thank you!

As for your splash well drains, I haven't poured a new transom, but last winter I resealed my wood transom. I found it was easiest to tape the holes shut and fill them with epoxy, then drill new holes threw the epoxy for the fittings. I would think this would hold true for pouring a new transom one as well. It's a lot easier to drill new holes through the material than to try to cast holes in the right location. You are making good progress, keep up the good work!

[XpressYoSelf]

I've now got about 70% of the material out now (below the red line is what's left to remove). The chainsaw has been the best tool, though mine is only 16"... I accidently ripped through the fiberglass skin (red arrow), but I'm not too worried about it. I'll just patch it up with fiberglass, and it'll be hidden by the motor, so I'm not really worried about aesthetics.
I found out that Home Depot rents out chainsaws, so I plan on getting one of their 20" rigs to knock the rest out. My transom is 21" deep, so this outta do without tearing through the bottom of the hull. Anyone have suggestions on getting the last inch of wood out?

[CastingCall]

Maybe a long spade bit with the tip ground off, on a drill bit extension? Or some kind of pry bar, or chunk of metal sharpened like a chisel to reach down that far to chip it out?

[XpressYoSelf]

Maybe a long spade bit with the tip ground off, on a drill bit extension? Or some kind of pry bar, or chunk of metal sharpened like a chisel to reach down that far to chip it out?

All good ideas. I knew it wouldn't be easy, but I'll get it done. Where there's a will, they say!

[hulapopr]

The pros will probably chime in with advice but if i were that far
in,cap off, i would just cut the inside layer of glass out and build
a new wood,glass transom and reglass it all back in on the inside.

[firemech048]

Several years ago i did the same thing to a Cajun. I formed all new stringers and poured my transom and stringers with Seacast. I used a chain saw with a 20" bar and several long chisels. I actually took a piece or round bar and welded it to the chisel. It came out great.

[Skunked again]

I'm in! Keep up the good work. I'm wanting to get a project boat, never messed with fiberglass. Gonna follow this.

[kry29]

If the wood way down there is wet then your stringers may be wet also. I kind of agree with hulapopr, cut the inside glass out and build a whole new transom and glass it in. Then if your stringers need work you can do that also. Clean it all up and spray some gel in the bilge so it looks good

[HVAC86]

If the wood way down there is wet then your stringers may be wet also. I kind of agree with hulapopr, cut the inside glass out and build a whole new transom and glass it in. Then if your stringers need work you can do that also. Clean it all up and spray some gel in the bilge so it looks good

your right about that! The way blazer built they’re boats is all the wood structure was put in then all of it was layed by a chopper gun. Even the 2 triangular shaped tops on either side of transom was wet. Each rear pod had about 2 Gals of water in each trapped in hollow voids in foam.
The wood in these boats act like a wick, once wet on one end, it will make its way throughout the entire core structure.

[HVAC86]

Any new progress?

[XpressYoSelf]

You’re right on that one. Once I got the cap off I realized I was in over my head. What was supposed to be a simple transom replacement quickly turned into needing a complete rebuild. There was about 3 gallons of water under the pods in the rear, and I found that the previous owner redid these stringers less than two years ago did not glass the underside of some of the stringers that had drain passages underneath. The entire job was just piss poor. What a shame. Well We’re about to build our first home, so this project will no longer be DIY. Does anyone know a reputable shop to rebuild my stringers and transom in South LA? I figure it would cost about $3k for stringers and a transom...

[firemech048]

It’s not in south Louisiana but I can tell you this. I would use Toledo fiberglass in Many, Louisiana. Al and his crew are top notch! I took my Gambler to them to have Gorilla hull applied last year and they did some additional work for me on it. It’s worth giving them a call.