2003 200hp Evinrude Rough Idle

[twinsguy]

I purchased a 2003 Ranger 619 earlier this summer with a 2003 Evinrude 200 (E200FPLST) on it. It ran and started fine through the first tank and a half of gas, I was using 89 octane gas with BRP 2+4 conditioner, which is what the previous owner had always used. In the next tank of gas I added Stabil Ethanol treatment.

It ran fine for most of that tank too but a few weeks ago it started and died immediately which had never happened before. I promptly flooded it and eventually got it running again after a while. For the rest of that weekend it idled rougher than normal and was very difficult to start. Seemed to run fine at higher rpms.

I have now filled it up with gas again (no Stabil), and changed out the spark plugs. The old ones looked pretty bad - black.

I took it out last night and it seemed a little better but was still difficult to start and the rough idle seemed to come and go.

Any thoughts on what the problem may be and/or what I should do?

[Danrude]

Remove and clean or replace if needed the exhaust pressure sensor. If you do not know when it was last de-carbed do it now and make sure you index the plugs. 87 octane fuel recommended for the engine.

[Bassmeister]

+1 Also make sure the plugs are gapped @ .028 tight and indexed properly.

[twinsguy]

Thanks for the replies. Plugs are gapped and indexed correctly as far as I understand indexing. Basically, I put them in so the opening of the spark plug gap was pointing toward the injectors.

I will check the exhaust pressure sensor and see what I find.

[twinsguy]

I checked under the cover quickly last night and noticed two things:

1. I will probably have to take the lower cover off to get to the exhaust pressure sensor. Is that true?

2. There was oil puddled in the front of the engine compartment. Last time out it idled for longer than normal, tilted up a bit, right before I shut it off. Could this be the cause of the oil and is that normal?

[Danrude]

Yes! you will have to remove the starboard side belly pan to access the exhaust pressure sensor.
Yes! you will see some oil under the throttle bodies and long idling will cause it as well as storing with engine tilted up.

[twinsguy]

I got the exhaust pressure sensor cleaned out - it was almost completely plugged up. I haven't had a chance to take it out yet but hopefully this will clear up the issue.

Is this something I'll have to do every so often or is there something else I should be doing to keep the carbon from building up? Will 87 octane gas make a difference? Should I run different fuel treatment? Something else?

Thanks for your help.

[SEAHORSE]

The exhaust sensor has a 100 hr. cleaning schedule, though many folks and mechanics don't know that or never read the manuals.

Use 87 octane fuel and XD 50 oil or better and make sure the thermostats are allowing the motor to idle at the right temp.

[twinsguy]

Thanks for the response.

As for the cylinder temp, are you saying check the temps with an infrared gun (which I don't have) or is there another way to do it?

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twinsguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

As for the cylinder temp, are you saying check the temps with an infrared gun (which I don't have) or is there another way to do it?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are your fingers calibrated in either Fahrenheit or Celsius ?

[twinsguy]

Kelvin actually.

[twinsguy]

I suppose I shouldn't be too sarcastic - I'm the one asking the dumb questions here.

Is it safe to assume though that if I get it up to temp and can't feel any cylinder that is cooler than the others, I'm ok?

[ChampioNman]

Contact your local dealer and have them get you some thermo sticks. They will melt when the desired temp is reached. For $40.00 I use a IR gun.

[Danrude]

If you are planning to work on the engine yourself then invest in a factory service manual and the diagnostic software. a compression gage, timing light and temperature sensor are good items to have access to.

[twinsguy]

A late update on this - it seems that the exhaust pressure sensor was the main problem. I made it a little harder on myself than I had to but all is well now.

Thanks for the help! This is my first "big" motor so the info I've found on here is invaluable.

Joe

[Danrude]

[triton21dan]

I have 2004 225ho direct ijection engine. Where is the exhaust pressure sensor at on this motor and how do you clean it?

[Danrude]

follow the exhaust pressure hose coming off the starboard side of the EMM, it will go through the diaphragm and down to the exhaust housing the hose is connect to the sensor, remove it. You will have to remove the belly pan to gain access. To clean it soak it in SeaFoam or something that will dissolve the carbon.

[RangerTim619]

On my 619 there is a fuel /water seperator under the splash well that you want to check or change out as well.

Your boat is couple years newer than mine but I would think that you have a fuel/water seprator on your boat too.

I have never cleaned my exhaust sensor maybe I will get at it today.

[twinsguy]

I guess I was a little premature with my "all is well" comment. The exhaust pressure sensor helped but after awhile the issue seemed to come back. When I had it winterized the tech stated one of the plugs didn't look like it had been indexed correctly, so he fixed that and said it was running fine when he put it away.

This summer I've had some other non-related issues with it but I finally got around to de-carbing it and adding new plugs and things seemed better but still not quite "right".

I finally took it in (to a different tech) and he just called and said I have "no compression" on the #4 cylinder. Not good.

He's going to pull it apart and see what it looks like. I'm just wondering if any of the experts can give me an idea what to expect when he calls back. Problem wise and financially.

Thanks.