2007 250 proxs alarm

[Dr. No]

The last time I used my boat late spring it ran fine. Took it yesterday and after warm up when I tried to get on plane a constant alarm came on at about 1800 rpms and the engine started jumping and skipping. Idle back down and runs good. Fuel is clean and filter looks good. Changed batteries and still does it. Added frest fuel and it still does it. Anybody know what this alarm could be? Could I unplug neutral safety switch and try it without doing any damage to anything to see if this is the problem? This particular alarm is not listed in the manual. Thanks

I dont understand how just sitting in enclosed garage for a while could cause this problem even though it was for about 5 months.

[ol man river]

you might want to have your coils checked......

[Shef]

Neutral safety/shift switch. Guardian will not let the motor go over 2k rpms because it thinks its in neutral.

[Dr. No]

Thanks for the info-would it hurt anything if I unplug the switch and try it out to see if it is corrected?

[EuropeanAM]

Actually- it's the SHIFT POSITION SWITCH (Netural safety switch is in the CONTROL BOX).

If unplugging the shift position switch allows the engine to accelerate- have the switch replaced.

This switch is critical to proper engine operation, proper idle, AND proper shifting.

[Dr. No]

Thanks

[mpino]

Actually- it's the SHIFT POSITION SWITCH (Netural safety switch is in the CONTROL BOX).

If unplugging the shift position switch allows the engine to accelerate- have the switch replaced.

This switch is critical to proper engine operation, proper idle, AND proper shifting.

Hey Don,

What is soo critical that this switch should be replaced, I had a problem over the weekend and discovered that the white tip of the switch would get stuck inside the housing and cause the motor to go into guardian mode and not let me go over 2000 rpm.

I now removed the switch and tie strapped it to some other wires, soo it's out of the way, and motor seems to run fine.

just wondering if there is something bad that could happen without the switch hooked up, ooh and by the way, not sure if it matters, but I have a hot foot, soo the rpm is controlled by my foot, not the shifter.

[EuropeanAM]

ooh and by the way, not sure if it matters, but I have a hot foot, soo the rpm is controlled by my foot, not the shifter.

Actually, the THROTTLE position is controlled by your foot. Rpms are still controlled by the PCM (based on inputs from the TPS, which is attached to the throttle linkage).

The PCM monitors the shift position switch to accomplish several things:

-Recognize when the engine is in NEUTRAL (to prevent over-revving in neutral)

-Recognize when the engine is IN GEAR (to adjust timing and idle speed, maintaining the correct idle speed)

-Recognize when the engine is being shifted OUT of gear (to momentarily "stutter" the engine, allowing the gears to disengage easier, with less effort)

Without the shift position switch in place, it's possible (actually likely) that you may encouter a scenario where you are unable to GET the engine out of gear at times... which poses a significant safety concern.

Replace the faulty switch... and make sure that the throttle cable retaining nut is not over-tightened (it should be snugged, then backed off approximately 1 turn, so that the plastic washer can rotate FREELY under the nut).

[TC3]

How in the heck do you get the switch out? Had to drive all the way across the state to get one, and can't even get the old one out.

[EuropeanAM]

Factory Service Manual would be very helpful in situations such as this.

First, you need the PORT side lower cowling removed.

Then, remove the SHIFT SLIDE from the engine, so that you can easily access and install the new switch onto the shift slide.

[TC3]

Factory Service Manual would be very helpful in situations such as this.

First, you need the PORT side lower cowling removed.

Then, remove the SHIFT SLIDE from the engine, so that you can easily access and install the new switch onto the shift slide.

Thanks Don, I figured it out. I just didn't want to believe that it took that much disassembly to remove/install a $40 switch. That switch must have been going bad for quite some time. The engine idles better now, and the difference is very noticeable when putting it in gear. Thanks.

[EuropeanAM]