Leaking X21 LE

[CVX21]

X21 owners, I need a little help....

My X21 leaks at the back corners of the gunnels, on both sides. It happens when I step on the gas to go; the transom sits down in the water and before it gets up on plane, the water sprays off the undersides of the back ends of the gunnels. This forces the water inside the boat (bilge).
(No water gets into the boat if I'm just using the trolling motor, it's only when I take off with the big motor, so I know the hull is not leaking.)

I can fix it, temporarily, by caulking the end caps with silicone sealant, but I all have to do is not pay attention once while fishing docks, and drag the back corner on a dock and "Pop" goes the seal. I have also pulled the back 6 feet of the rub rail off and caulked the screws under the rub rails and the last 10 feet of the seam where the hull meets the gunnels.

I've been thinking of fabricating a shield to cover the end caps so the water flows over it instead of catching on it, and was wondering if anyone has already done this. I'd appreciate any insight that you can offer.

Has anyone else solved this problem in another way, and how did you do it?

Thanks for your help, in advance!

[hog power]

What year is your boat?

[CVX21]

It is a 2005 X21 LE with a 10" jack plate & a 250 VMax HPDI turning a 25" T-1 prop.

[FEARTHETURTLE210]

I used the caulk method on my X19. I sealed everything up with marine silicone and it solved my problem. Held up pretty good and didnt have to reseal..sold boat.

[scotty34]

Would a holeshot plate added to the jackplate help keep the transome from squatting down ?
Just a thought
Scott

[mikesxpress]

Doesn't matter. They all leak back there sooner or later. Best to just seal it.

[Kevin R.]

Someone post some pics of the areas so I can do some work on mine please!!!!

[kk4iz]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Kevin R. &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Someone post some pics of the areas so I can do some work on mine please!!!! </td></tr></table>

For me too

[hog power]

I am with Kevin and Warren, someone post pics where it leaks.

[CVX21]

Guys,
Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, I don’t know how to post pics, but maybe I can explain so you will know where to look...

My boat is the Limited Edition model which has a large rub rail down the sides of the gunnel. At the transom, on the very end of the rub rail is a black plastic cap, held by two sheet metal screws, that covers the end of the extrusion that holds the rub rail. The extrusion has a large open area under the cap. Water catches on this cap and finds its way inside the boat during the hole shot. I closed the extrusion up with sealant, re-installed the end caps and formed a bead of sealant so the water could flow over the end caps. (Warren, I checked out the pics of your boat; it doesn’t have this style of rub rail.)

The rub rail is two pieces, the molded rail itself, and a rubber center cover. The rubber center cover hides the screws that mount the rail to the gunnel. Because the cover has two seams that run in parallel to the end cap, I ran a bead of sealant along the seams so water could not channel its way into the caps and eventually into the bilge.

The other place that water seemed to get in was under the gunnel, where the gunnel fits over the hull. If you look under the gunnels, you will see the joint where the gunnel overlaps the hull. I caulked this joint, too.

When I first bought the boat, it leaked only when I was using the big motor. After I caulked these three areas my problem was solved, until I caught one of the end caps on a dock and nearly tore it off! Then, it starting leaking again.

This year, the water found a new way into the bilge… through the livewell and bilge pump out flanges in the splashwell. The flanges did not have any sealant on them and had come loose. I removed them, put sealant around them, and re-tightened them. That solved the problem.

I hope this helps,
Allen

[kk4iz]

Thanks Allen
If you have any pictures email them to me and I'll post them for you, if you mind.

kk4iz@bellsouth.net

[mikesxpress]

Yep. Those are the trouble spots. Good write up.
Any thru hull fitting on these should be removed and sealed. I found no sealant on any of them. Toss in the hose connections that need to be pushed on and clamps tightened and you only need to be concerned about the water coming in around all of your front rod lockers and storage!!!

Gotta love these beer can boats!!!

[chucktx]

what would be the best sealant???? my cap leaks at the rear also.....i am sure a bead will seal it, i just want to use the best, or one that will last.........

[CVX21]

chucktx,

I have had the best luck using Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant. (Permatex # 81158)

It cures to a shiny black finish, so it blends in well with the rub rail and end cap. Because it is an adhesive, it tends to last a pretty long while.

If you get it smeared where you don't want it, use a rag with rubbing alchohol to clean it before it cures. It is very difficult to remove after it cures, I usually need to cut it off with a razor blade.

[opaleski]

How fast do you run for a top speed??

[chucktx]

thanks for the info, cvx21...........

[CVX21]

The fastest speed I've seen on my GPS was 78.9. That was in the fall, by myself. Normally, with 2 passengers, it runs around 72.

[opaleski]

Any chine walk?? What do you use for a prop?? What is the draft on your boat??

[kk4iz]

The 4 blade prop Xpress send on these boat don't even make a good boat anchor. An Yamaha T-1 27 should work real great and even better after Mark works it 82.7 mph/gps with two fisherman and tackle with very little chine walk

[CVX21]

I absolutely agree with what Warren said... the Yamaha T-1 prop made a huge improvement in the performance of my boat, too!

Allen