could use some help buying a used boat

[ruforeel]

Hello all new to this whole boat thing. I am going to look at a used 1996 stratos 201pro xl. Has a johnson 200 venom for motor. 71 lb Trolling motor . Onboard charger. Gauges that work our temp,bat,fuel, RPM. Speedometer doesn't and he said there is another one that is fogged and he doesn't even know what it does.
Only has the original lowrance fish finder in the dash. He says the boat has been used and the normal wear with some scratches but nothing bad. The carpet probably needs to be done if you want it to be perfect. The boat is like 3 hrs a way from me. He says the boat never starts on first crank and but has always started on the second. He states after it warms up and you go fishing it restarts with no prob every time. I told him I lived far away and if there was anything wrong to just tell me now. I asked him about the transom and he stated there were some cracks in the paint on the back but not the transom itself. He said he had it looked at and the guy told him not to worry these motors are heavy and the cracks were not unusual. He also stated the steering was a little stiff. He has only had this boat since March and the steering was that way when he got it. Stock steering no after market stuff.
Any thoughts on this boat before I go and look at it would be appreciated. The paint cracking towards the back is alarming but those who actually have boats may actually know more about this. The price 4800
Thank you
Rob

[JR19]

Speedomoters are the first thing that normally fails on a boat. Of all the speedomoters that I have seen work about 75% of them are off buy a couple mph when compared to GPS speed. *In my opinion* a speedomoter is not very important...tachomoter ,water pressure, voltmeter, trim guage and fuel guage is all I need.

There actually is a starting procedure for a carburated motor. Since the motor fires after it has been warmed up I would think he is not priming the bulb and or using the eletric chocke correctly...1st thing in the morning prime bulb,push in on key and release two times (injects fuel into carburaters) then push in on key and crank motor at the same time...after motor is running if it starts to stall or run rough a quick push and release of the key can help. The rest of the day you should be able to get buy with just turning the key.

When you say cracks I am going to assume they are stress cracks. They are in the outer layer of the boats gel coat and not down in the fiberglass...If they are deep enough cracks to see fiberglass Run Forrest Run. If they are gel coat stress cracks they are merely an eye sore.

Stiff steering...since the motor is an 96 I assume it is cable steering. Pending what type cable system it has and wether you do the work or take it to a mechanic the cables can be replaced for $75-200...if it has hyduralic steering it could have air in the system or it could be low on fluid.

With the motor toter removed apply some pressure to the back of the motor. If you feel flex inspect the transom very close. If you are very serious about buying the boat ask the owner if you can get a compression check on the motor. If he is serious about selling the boat he will agree. Call a mechanic and tell him you will pay 1 hour labor to check the compression, check for water in lower unit and evulate the overall condition of the motor.

[ruforeel]

"When you say cracks I am going to assume they are stress cracks. They are in the outer layer of the boats gel coat and not down in the fiberglass...If they are deep enough cracks to see fiberglass Run Forrest Run. If they are gel coat stress cracks they are merely an eye"

Exactly how he described it not deep. more like cracks in the gel coat. He said the guy he took it too said exactly that. An eyesore but not a problem. Will give it the motor toter test.

Will check the lower unit after we get back from the lake.

Was Hoping to get down there tomorrow but might have to wait til next week
Thanks for the quick reply and the advice
Rob