It's dead, Mammy! It's dead!

[SkeeterStew]

will do sir...this is better than any clymer manual

Thanks bud! I'm trying hard to make sure I don't mess it up worse than it was when I got in

[Charles Prestridge]

You should call Chris Carson Marine and order his composite reeds. They will help with idling, overall running, and fuel efficiency. Only about $125.

I love your part descriptions. This is going to be a good journey for us to follow.

Thanks for sharing.

[jethro1]

Quote

Unfortunately there must be more bolts somewhere I have to remove, because the case wouldn't crack just yet even with all the intake bolts pulled out. I'm not discouraged though. Today was pretty productive I'd say, though my head is still swimming with nightmares of routing oil injection hoses that never go anywhere.

End quote

Did you remove the upper bearing housing and the lower oil seal housing?

[SkeeterStew]

You should call Chris Carson Marine and order his composite reeds. They will help with idling, overall running, and fuel efficiency. Only about $125.

I love your part descriptions. This is going to be a good journey for us to follow.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the tip. The reeds seem OK. Not bent, frayed, wiggly or anything weird. I'll keep him in mind though.

[SkeeterStew]

Quote

Unfortunately there must be more bolts somewhere I have to remove, because the case wouldn't crack just yet even with all the intake bolts pulled out. I'm not discouraged though. Today was pretty productive I'd say, though my head is still swimming with nightmares of routing oil injection hoses that never go anywhere.

End quote

Did you remove the upper bearing housing and the lower oil seal housing?

Nope, my book kinda left me hanging there. I'll get on those next. Today's going to be a honey-do day but if I can get free I'll post an update

[ChampioNman]

That is why a Clymer manual is no where near as good as a Factory manual. You need to remove the upper and lower bearing bolts that connect to both halves plus the taper pin that aligns both halves. You are going to need to figure out why she popped if not at least you'll have plenty of practice when you have to tear it down again. BTW that water hose you removed from the top of the motor with the channel locks is for your water pressure gauge.

[SkeeterStew]

That is why a Clymer manual is no where near as good as a Factory manual. You need to remove the upper and lower bearing bolts that connect to both halves plus the taper pin that aligns both halves. You are going to need to figure out why she popped if not at least you'll have plenty of practice when you have to tear it down again. BTW that water hose you removed from the top of the motor with the channel locks is for your water pressure gauge.

Is this the right thing? It says the right motor, but doesn't seem very thick.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-OUTBO...tT7WtJ&vxp=mtr

Thanks for the tip on the water pressure gauge!

[Charles Prestridge]

Thanks for the tip. The reeds seem OK. Not bent, frayed, wiggly or anything weird. I'll keep him in mind though.

Your existing reeds will likely continue to work. However, since you have the motor torn down, the cost of composite reeds is pretty low. If you can swing the $125, install them during the rebuild.

[SkeeterStew]

Your existing reeds will likely continue to work. However, since you have the motor torn down, the cost of composite reeds is pretty low. If you can swing the $125, install them during the rebuild.

I appreciate what you're saying, but I can't justify $125 for a working part. "Pretty low" is a relative term, my friend. Anything over about $50 requires a 2/3rds vote of the neighborhood, an act of congress, and selling of some excess children in my house

[Charles Prestridge]

I appreciate what you're saying, but I can't justify $125 for a working part. "Pretty low" is a relative term, my friend. Anything over about $50 requires a 2/3rds vote of the neighborhood, an act of congress, and selling of some excess children in my house

I understand. Go ahead and sell some of the children. Maybe Chris will cut you a deal for giving him alot of advertisement from your rebuild post.

[SkeeterStew]

I understand. Go ahead and sell some of the children. Maybe Chris will cut you a deal for giving him alot of advertisement from your rebuild post.

Haha, yeah he sure does seem to be getting alot of advertising in my thread. I'll go ahead and send him a bill when it's over, maybe we can work out a trade

[Charlie206]

The crankcase halves are being held together by (I think) 2 pins and by anerobic sealer which was applied to the block halves upon assembly. If you don't put that crowbar down, I can't help you save that engine. Use a piece of hardwood or anything less dense than aluminum. Steel is more dense than aluminum. The two pieces you pried from the top and bottom of the crankcase will fall out upon separation of the two halves of the block, therefore prying is not a good thing.
Look down both sides of the crankcase for a recess designed to insert a pry tool for the purpose of TWISTING it to break the seal and separate the halves. Don't hammer a screwdriver between the halves. You can use said piece of hardwood and hammer, or a dead blow hammer to gently tap apart the halves. You have to break the seal of the anerobic. "glue" and the the halves come apart easily.

[Carlos H]

If you don't put that crowbar down, I can't help you save that engine.

A true Mech speaking that is a great mentor.. OP, listen to this guy

[SkeeterStew]

The crankcase halves are being held together by (I think) 2 pins and by anerobic sealer which was applied to the block halves upon assembly. If you don't put that crowbar down, I can't help you save that engine. Use a piece of hardwood or anything less dense than aluminum. Steel is more dense than aluminum. The two pieces you pried from the top and bottom of the crankcase will fall out upon separation of the two halves of the block, therefore prying is not a good thing.
Look down both sides of the crankcase for a recess designed to insert a pry tool for the purpose of TWISTING it to break the seal and separate the halves. Don't hammer a screwdriver between the halves. You can use said piece of hardwood and hammer, or a dead blow hammer to gently tap apart the halves. You have to break the seal of the anerobic. "glue" and the the halves come apart easily.

ROger that! I'm cracking that puppy open today if all goes well then! Thanks Charlie

[SkeeterStew]

If you don't put that crowbar down, I can't help you save that engine.

A true Mech speaking that is a great mentor.. OP, listen to this guy

I believe ya. If Charlie wasn't watching my thread I'd not have gotten as far as I have to date.

[Charlie206]

I been called a lot of things - mentor ain't one of them. Thanks Carlos. It's time to talk engine theory Stewart. You won't find that in your repair manual regretfully. The crankcase has to be sealed against atmosphere. The only air that can enter the engine is thru the carbs and reed valves. As the pistons move up and down, a positive pressure, negative pressure is created within each chamber in the crankcase. Each piston has it's own chamber, sealed from every other chamber. So think of the engine as 6 little engines all working together, for a 6 cylinder engine. This pulsation is utilized to pull fuel to the engine, and to pull oil and correctly metered fuel to where it is needed. This is a highly abbreviated lesson in theory but I hope it's enough for you to get my point. If you can't reseal the crankcase because the mating surfaces are boogered up from driving screwdrivers and crowbars into it, the engine is toast. There is no gasket between the crankcase halves. A perfect mating surface is critical.
If there are two locating pins, they are likely conical in shape, larger on one end than the other. They have to be driven out toward the big end. Driving them toward the little end will ruin the crankcase. Different manufacturers do these locating pins a little differently and I haven't looked at a manual for your specific engine so this is just general advice. Look around the side mating flanges for them and see if they are visible.

[joeboata]

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...201/parts.html

This is a link to www.boats.net website. It has exploded views of your engine (you can + or - to enlarge the image).

From what I can tell it looks like your engine uses 2 dowel pins inside to locate the crankcase halves and not taper pins.

You can also look up how many bolts are used per assembly so you can count how many you took out and make sure you got 'em all.

I use this site to figure out where the "leftover" parts go after I work on an engine :)

[SkeeterStew]

I been called a lot of things - mentor ain't one of them. Thanks Carlos. It's time to talk engine theory Stewart. You won't find that in your repair manual regretfully. The crankcase has to be sealed against atmosphere. The only air that can enter the engine is thru the carbs and reed valves. As the pistons move up and down, a positive pressure, negative pressure is created within each chamber in the crankcase. Each piston has it's own chamber, sealed from every other chamber. So think of the engine as 6 little engines all working together, for a 6 cylinder engine. This pulsation is utilized to pull fuel to the engine, and to pull oil and correctly metered fuel to where it is needed. This is a highly abbreviated lesson in theory but I hope it's enough for you to get my point. If you can't reseal the crankcase because the mating surfaces are boogered up from driving screwdrivers and crowbars into it, the engine is toast. There is no gasket between the crankcase halves. A perfect mating surface is critical.
If there are two locating pins, they are likely conical in shape, larger on one end than the other. They have to be driven out toward the big end. Driving them toward the little end will ruin the crankcase. Different manufacturers do these locating pins a little differently and I haven't looked at a manual for your specific engine so this is just general advice. Look around the side mating flanges for them and see if they are visible.

Thanks Charlie. That fancy glue, I'll need that to put it back together right? I better get to shoppin. I'll use a 2x4 cut about 1 ft long and a hammer to try to get them apart. Looking like tomorrow, today is too booked. :(

[SkeeterStew]

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...201/parts.html

This is a link to www.boats.net website. It has exploded views of your engine (you can + or - to enlarge the image).

From what I can tell it looks like your engine uses 2 dowel pins inside to locate the crankcase halves and not taper pins.

You can also look up how many bolts are used per assembly so you can count how many you took out and make sure you got 'em all.

I use this site to figure out where the "leftover" parts go after I work on an engine :)

Now that's handy! Thanks Joeboata!

[Charlie206]

Anerobic sealer is available at auto parts stores for around $12. From an outboard place it costs one nut and 2 children. Go to the auto parts store!!!!!!!!!!