It's dead, Mammy! It's dead!

[SkeeterStew]

The nut and friction between the flywheel and the crank shaft is all that is holding it on. It can be a sumbitch. Leave the nut loosely in place so that when the flywheel comes loose it does not go flying into outer space. Maybe apply a bit of heat to the flywheel and a bit of dry ice to the top of the crank shaft.

Regarding the dowel locating pins they sometimes get stuck in the hole in the bottom of the block. Or if the power head was removed once before they might not have been reused. Or, maybe one went down the exhaust.

I have had some luck getting aluminum off the cylinder walls by applying hydrochloric acid with a swab. It will dissolve the aluminum while not harming the steel liner.

I never thought of it flyin off! Doh! Thanks for that one! It's still stuck on, but I put the nut back on loosely and put on a pair of safety glasses. My puller bolts are starting to bend I'm putting so much work on it. Still nothin! I'm out of time today so let's do the update. Day three commences in 3...2....1...

[jethro1]

On the basis that there is no such thing as having too many tools might I suggest this one for your tool box.

To quote Seahorse "possessing more tools than talent"

[jethro1]

I would use a puller like this one if I did not have the hydraulic puller. Which I don't.

Metric bolts needed of course.

https://www.grainger.com/product/1MZ...160609210104:s

[Charlie206]

Dude, looks like the wrist pin broke in half. Remember all the warnings above about other internal damage? That's what they were talking about. You will have to measure the crankshaft journal carefully where that rod goes to the crank. There was some violent backlash going on before she blew. Git r done. You remind me of me!!!!

[cwilt]

Stick a fork in that piston....its DONE!

[jethro1]

Dude, looks like the wrist pin broke in half. Remember all the warnings above about other internal damage? That's what they were talking about. You will have to measure the crankshaft journal carefully where that rod goes to the crank. There was some violent backlash going on before she blew. Git r done. You remind me of me!!!!

Detonation and its twin ugly red haired step sister preignition will do that. It will bend/break connecting rods, destroy pistons, and all sorts of other mean and nasty stuff. In air plane motors it has been known to blown an entire cylinder off of the motor. It might even cause piston ring locating pins to jar loose.

[Tonyc]

Wow, you are my hero!

[CJ1]

Get your puller on the flywheel, put some tension on it and put a little heat on the od of the flywheel around the shaft. Don't get it too hot so as to damage anything. I warm it up and hit the pulling screw with a brass hammer.[don't think you will get enough shock with a computhane hammer] They normally pop right off. Most of the time without even using a hammer. It almost looks like your puller is upsidedown? I know with mine the flat goes up for the bolt heads and washers don't sink into the recesses [sp]. The heat is the trick that I have found with a tapered shaft. CJ

[jethro1]

Get your puller on the flywheel, put some tension on it and put a little heat on the od of the flywheel around the shaft. Don't get it too hot so as to damage anything. I warm it up and hit the pulling screw with a brass hammer.[don't think you will get enough shock with a computhane hammer] They normally pop right off. Most of the time without even using a hammer. It almost looks like your puller is upsidedown? I know with mine the flat goes up for the bolt heads and washers don't sink into the recesses [sp]. The heat is the trick that I have found with a tapered shaft. CJ

My thinking as well. I used a large claw hammer. And got grief from my colleagues for not use a ball peen hammer. An impact gun on the puller nut can help as it applies a great deal of torque while providing the vibration sometimes needs to break the taper loose.

For a heat source I prefer a hot air gun. Hope a flame torch is not being used. But if so, be careful.

[Charlie206]

Years ago I had a Suzuki stuck so bad that I broke grade 8 puller bolts on it. It was warranty work so I called the rep and asked him if he wanted to stop by cause I was gonna get mean with it. He did come by and we broke a second set of bolts on it. The torch came out and it took an 8 lb maul hitting it so hard I was sure we were going to do internal damage. I had to buy a new puller, destroyed it with the toughest impact we had at the shop. They can be frustrating at times.

[SkeeterStew]

Dude, looks like the wrist pin broke in half. Remember all the warnings above about other internal damage? That's what they were talking about. You will have to measure the crankshaft journal carefully where that rod goes to the crank. There was some violent backlash going on before she blew. Git r done. You remind me of me!!!!

Will do! Once I figure out what a crankshaft journal is :D

Thanks for keeping an eye on me.

[SkeeterStew]

Stick a fork in that piston....its DONE!

Yep, she's toast. New one is in the mail.

[SkeeterStew]

Detonation and its twin ugly red haired step sister preignition will do that. It will bend/break connecting rods, destroy pistons, and all sorts of other mean and nasty stuff. In air plane motors it has been known to blown an entire cylinder off of the motor. It might even cause piston ring locating pins to jar loose.

Holy mackerel! I'm glad nothing like that happened with the kids in the boat! I think after this I'm going to start premixing my gas & oil and using premium gas only. We've had a lot of prime fishing days go by already. I don't ever want to do this again!

[SkeeterStew]

Wow, you are my hero!

Thanks Tony! Welcome to my mess :)

[SkeeterStew]

Get your puller on the flywheel, put some tension on it and put a little heat on the od of the flywheel around the shaft. Don't get it too hot so as to damage anything. I warm it up and hit the pulling screw with a brass hammer.[don't think you will get enough shock with a computhane hammer] They normally pop right off. Most of the time without even using a hammer. It almost looks like your puller is upsidedown? I know with mine the flat goes up for the bolt heads and washers don't sink into the recesses [sp]. The heat is the trick that I have found with a tapered shaft. CJ

You're right about the puller. Upside down! That's what I get for getting ahead of myself. didn't read the instructions. Thankfully I have the lifetime warranty so I'll just go swap it out later on this month.

[SkeeterStew]

My thinking as well. I used a large claw hammer. And got grief from my colleagues for not use a ball peen hammer. An impact gun on the puller nut can help as it applies a great deal of torque while providing the vibration sometimes needs to break the taper loose.

For a heat source I prefer a hot air gun. Hope a flame torch is not being used. But if so, be careful.

The PB Blaster worked last night. Popped right off with a couple of whacks with a claw hammer this morning.

[SkeeterStew]

Years ago I had a Suzuki stuck so bad that I broke grade 8 puller bolts on it. It was warranty work so I called the rep and asked him if he wanted to stop by cause I was gonna get mean with it. He did come by and we broke a second set of bolts on it. The torch came out and it took an 8 lb maul hitting it so hard I was sure we were going to do internal damage. I had to buy a new puller, destroyed it with the toughest impact we had at the shop. They can be frustrating at times.

Geesh! I'd have put it on the back of the truck with a chain by that point haha!

[cwilt]

if i was you i would ( at a minimum) tear down the respective carb to the melted piston. just a thought

[SkeeterStew]

if i was you i would ( at a minimum) tear down the respective carb to the melted piston. just a thought

Haha, cwilt! Ya beat me to the end of the day. I got the carbs off. Stay tuned!

[cwilt]

Haha, cwilt! Ya beat me to the end of the day. I got the carbs off. Stay tuned!

will do sir...this is better than any clymer manual