1984 Johnson GT150 6 CYL VRO

[ad5vj]

I originally posted to the wrong forum. I posted to the Champion Boat Forum since my boat is a 1984 Champion 16'8 and has the original 1984 Johnson GT150 6CYL VRO outboard engine.

I am going through the boat making sure all the gauges are working as originally intended by Champion Boats in 1984. I had a problem with the RPM (tachometer) and Speedometer (Pitot) and the water pressure meter.

My original post was about the Pitot on the engine.

I found out that the tubing with the L connector on it belongs attached at the hole at the pitot at the front of the lower end housing. Someone removed it complety and brought it up topside into the engine compartment.

I have an idea to mount to the outside of the pitot hole and the water should still change the air pressure inside the tubing to make the speedometer work I think anyway!?

Today I got the tach working. On the 1984 2-stroke Johnson GT150 V-6 VRO controls there is a 3 pin connector just under a 3 way switch that is just under the key. I unplugged the connector and brought it through the side panel to the front. Upon inspection there was two of the three wires which had been beat up and the insulation was missing. I rewired them and feed the connector back to its receptacle at the control panel and it works great now.

Tachometer_upload.jpg

The tubing at the back of the water pressure meter looks eaten up and has holes in it so this may be the problem on the water pressure not reading.

Any suggestions ideas or schematics are welcome.

[drywall taper 1]

Hey Bob, I have the same rig, a 168 SuperV with /84 GT 150 STLCRD. Talking from experience, if you still have your's, change out the short clear section of oil supply line to the base of the VRO pump for new! When it cracks the oil pump sucks air while the fuel keeps flowing and the engine is at risk. There's no alarm for oil pressure, just a "low oil" level alarm in the oil-tank. Now I have a 31 year old engine that's never given me a lick of problem, and due to that cracked-open oil line I am needing a rebuild done. Don't want to give up my '84 engine.

[drywall taper 1]

Hey Bob, Me again. I am also planning to go to the dual fuel pumps option I think we have with our /84 J150STLCRD models. The blocks are tapped and threaded for a pair of lift fuel pumps as the 235hp engine of that same year had. And there's an extra vacuum tap as well located on the middle cylinder (just-above the lower vacuum tap). No more trusting all the extra stuff necessary for a VRO system, any part of it all that can fail and ruin our engines. I'll pre-mix and be safer. As my VRO after 31 years, is noticed seeping fuel from the seams, I am ordering two of the lift fuel pumps instead of a VRO pump and going that route. (less than 150 dollars for both!) You all might consider the same idea if you want to keep your engines healthy without concern for VRO system issues. Good luck

[omcforever]

He hasn't posted for 3 years,,,3 year old post. Start your own thread next time please...Thanks(VRO is very reliable. They make an updated pump for yours. . Pulse pumps can fail also especially the aftermarket ones with plastic housings. If you like to pre-mix, go for it. Just use OE OMC metal pulse pumps. VRO has gotten a bad rap over the years for failures not associated with VRO pumps)

[drywall taper 1]

Thank you.

[drywall taper 1]

I wonder if the 1989 Tracker GT 150 engine I'm going to look at on Saturday, had the updated VRO pump? Guess I start doing research online.

[ChampioNman]

It should have the 4 wire system. Which is updated, they removed the ports from the front half of the crank case and went with the pulse limiter and the bottom of the block.

[drywall taper 1]

Thanks ChampioNman. Now I have my old '84 GT 150, (J150STLCRD) off the boat and hanging on a stand. I can figure out how to do the fuel connections with mixed gas/oil, and hook up battery cables, but is there a commercially-made ELECTRICAL HARNESS to plug into my engine's elect plug, for starting it on the stand? Or do I need to Jerry-rig electrical controls for starting and trim/tilt?

[drywall taper 1]

Hey Bob, Me again. I am also planning to go to the dual fuel pumps option I think we have with our /84 J150STLCRD models. The blocks are tapped and threaded for a pair of lift fuel pumps as the 235hp engine of that same year had. And there's an extra vacuum tap as well located on the middle cylinder (just-above the lower vacuum tap). No more trusting all the extra stuff necessary for a VRO system, any part of it all that can fail and ruin our engines. I'll pre-mix and be safer. As my VRO after 31 years, is noticed seeping fuel from the seams, I am ordering two of the lift fuel pumps instead of a VRO pump and going that route. (less than 150-250 dollars for both!) You all might consider the same idea if you want to keep your engines healthy without concern for VRO system issues. Good luck

3/15/2016: Instead of rebuilding the ;84 GT150, I am now looking at purchasing a 1989 GT150. So can anyone tell me, what the engine-differences and performance-differences might be comparing the 1989 GT150 to my 1984 GT150, rigged on my '84 Champion 16-8 Super V? (The /89 reads 105# compression across all cylinders). Thankyou. drywall taper.

[omcforever]

Please, in the future, don't resurrect an old dead thread. since the subject you just posted is different also. 1984 and 1989 performance will pretty much the same (if both still have the original tight heads and 1-5/16th carbs) . Newer GT150 had 35 amp charging systems and the first years (1983)had 10 amp. May take a few extra ponies on the 35 amp but you will never notice it. Your 84 already have 35 amp system. 1989 also had 1 power pack and quick start feature and a 2 wire temp sensor in the starboard head.

[drywall taper 1]

Thankyou!

[ChampioNman]

I guess I need to delete old posts so we can purge the old ones.