CMC Jack Plate Actuator Removal?

[tap_tap_boom]

Hey guys, JP Actuator 7050 died. Bought a new one and the instructions seemed easy to replace, but there is a bar at the bottom that is preventing it from coming out. Has anyone replaced theirs and could you offer some advice??

Thanks,

Mike Malinao
408-859-one971

[atcje]

I had to take my jack plate off the boat to remove the actuator.

[hooken203]

I had mine off when I did it but if you had the plate all the way up and supported then ran the actuator all the way down after you drove the pins out of the cylinder rod on top and the actuator at the bottom you may be able to sneak it out of there. When you take the pin out of the bottom you should be able to get the actuator to move up. Maybe you are past this point but DO NOT hit the part of the actuator that goes through the bottom plate with a hammer it will swell if you strike it and then it is a real PITA to get out. Trust me on that one.

[ssv1761982]

I did mine with it on the boat. I have a spare set of pins if you need them. I think I tightened the side bolts to hole the motor in position.

[xb03fs]

On my xb03 i changed it on the boat not sure if design changed but it looked the same

[tap_tap_boom]

Thanks guys, couldn't figure out how to get it off and need to take into a shop :(

[xb03fs]

There was some pin that had to be beat out. Had to position in the correct spot the use side nuts to lock in place so it could
Be removed It was 4-5 years ago and was a pita

[tap_tap_boom]

Yeah, there is a bracket on top and on the bottom and we could not see a way to get it out without removing the motor! Sucks because the boat has only been used once since I bought it used (2010) and its looking like $1k for parts and labor. So pissed!

[AllyFishing]

A grand for parts and labor?? I'd buy a brand new one and install it myself. It's not hard if you have a lift

[tap_tap_boom]

The actuator from CMC was $400 shipped and it sounds like it 5-6 hours labor $120/hr.

[Tim Powell]

I think I'd buy a new bobs or something before paying that to fix the cmc.

[ssv1761982]

You should be able to do it in an hour or two.

[hooken203]

When I bought my boat I got the engine bolted on and the CMC plate wouldnt hardly move. Got a rebuilt actuator from CMC. I bench tested this rebuilt unit and worked almost as bad as the original. Sent it back and bought a Bobs Machine Shop plate. Either way you are going to spend 1000 to 1500 dollars to get it fixed. I would pitch the CMC.

[tap_tap_boom]

Hopefully it will be an hour or two! Before I bought the new actuator I read the removal process online and it seemed simple. Raise the JP all the way up, lock down the bolts to 100 pounds, retract the JP and remove from the bottom. Sounded simple enough. Called CMC and they said the same thing so I ordered another actuator on the spot. Had I known all of this would have to happen, I probably would have researched the Atlas a little more and just bought a new JP!

[tap_tap_boom]

$460 in labor $400 part...ouch

[AllyFishing]

have you had it installed yet? Is that the labor price of a marina? What i would really like to know is how can a fairly new actuator go bad so quickly? I had a CMC JP on my old boat for over 15 years without one bit of trouble. All I ever did to it for maintenance was spray the rollers and guides with WD40 every few weeks or so as per the techs at CMC.

[Cartes Custom]

Hmm, dang Mike that sounds like a hell of a task. If you were close I would help. Good luck.

[atcje]

My actuator went bad pretty quick as well. Once I had it out I pulled the top off the motor and discovered one of the brush mounts had come loose allowing the brush to lose contact with the armature. The mount only had 1 of the 2 rivets, it appeared to leave the factory that way too.

[tap_tap_boom]

Yeah it sucks, spent a ton on a boat, had it shipped, used it once and the JP started like a you know what. We found out that one of the slide bolts was significantly tighter than the rest. The only thing I could think of is that, plus the vibrations in traveling 2000+ miles did something to it. When you buy used you roll the dice.

[AllyFishing]

Glad you mentioned the slide bolts. Many many years ago the nuts on the inside were the nylock nuts. They're not anymore. My 2+2 and this boat I have to keep an eye on the sliders bolts and nuts because they either come loose or tighten up on their own. I called CMC about this and they said the nut on the inside is to be tightened down (locked) against the plate by holding the bolt head on the outside in position AFTER the proper spacing of the nylon and steel washer have been achieved.

And the way you get the right tension on the washers is by tightening or loosening the bolt so the washers can be turned with your fingers but not so loose that they spin freely. I was told the inside plate is threaded where the bolt goes thru and that by turning the bolt it will tighten or loosen the adjustment of the washers. Then you "lock" down the nut against the inside to hold it in place.

I've had my boat sit for a few weeks with the motor trimmed down and if I'm going fishing trim the motor up to put the motor mate on and hit the JP lever down it gives out a load "crack" sound and it's one of the washers letting go because it's too tight. Then I go thru the process all over again checking the tension on all the washers AFTER I sprayed them with WD40 so they are not dry. sucks

I may be all wrong on this but I'm just repeating what I was told by a CMC tech.