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  1. #1
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    Consolidated thread. Help if you can. Motor crapped out after seafoam. Barely runs

    Hello folks!

    I recently posted a couple threads in regards to my motor and it's getting messy. Out of desperation yesterday evening I posted a motor concern in the lounge knowing that id get a lot of hits. For that I apologize and will provide links and if mods want to delete that would be great! :)

    http://www.bbcboards.net/mercury-mot...ower-cowl.html

    http://www.bbcboards.net/bbc-lounge/...-low-idle.html


    Motor is a 2000 Mercury 125 HP ELPTO serial 0T074434.

    On monday I removed the cover on the carbs and ran the motor to warm it up. Sprayed seafoam deep creep into the carbs and it smoked quite a bit. It never stalled and I'd say between the 4 carbs I used maybe half a can.

    yesterday I went out to give her a good run on water and make sure she's running smooth. For the first 4 hours of use maybe a total of 10-15 minutes of running time she died on my. I was at half speed and she started hissing and sounded like maybe a backfire. The hissing and spitting sounded like it was coming from the idle relief ports on the back. It Started sputtering and quit. Leaving the wake to crash over the back and soaking everything ha ha. Least of my worries at that point. It sounded like water hitting a hot frying pan so I assumed it was over heating. I touched the motor and and shaft and everything was nice and cool. Right before the stall it did sound like a ticking sound and sounded dry of that makes sense and I remember thinking that seconds before it died. Further attempts to start it seemed like it wasn't gonna go. So I feathered the throttle and finally got her running, although she did sound weird. Still a faint ticking noise and seemed like more vibrations than normal. It was fine if I left a bit of throttle on it like 2000 RPM and as soon as I left off it would sputter and stall. If I attempted to engage forward it would die out.

    With only minutes of light left, about 4 miles out and the uncertainty of the battery life left for trolling motor I decided to give it another try. I started the motor and ran it in neutral with foot on the gas. Varying from 2000-4000 RPM. After about 10 minutes of rough running I left off gas for a second slammed into forward and gave it gas. The motor didn't die so I took advantage of it and made my way over to the launch. Out of curiosity I pinned it and I lost about 10 MPH and it would not do more. Felt like I was running with 60% motor left. I have video if anyone is really curious and I can try to email it if requested.

    I understand this is lengthy read, however, I'd greatly appreciate some advice and help. This could be as simple as changing spark plugs or a rebuild. I just want to know the fate of my 2015 fishing season LOL
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  2. Member
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    #2
    Certainly pull the plugs and examine them. Engine cleaning can stir up a whole lot of crap.
    Good place to start.
    Michael Martin
    Virginia...now in Maryland
    1998 P III, 2006 200 Optimax SOLD
    2017 Robalo 226 Cayman, 200 Yamaha 4 stroke

  3. Member
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    #3
    Yep. Pull the plugs for starters. You got a compression tester handy? You can borrow them from auto parts stores if not. Good luck
    90 Shadow 20' Mod V w/ 200 Merc - Total resto and loving it!
    Here's my build from cap-off to boat in the water.
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=336645

  4. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #4
    Very helpful to keep one thread... as multiple threads actually waste time and resources that could be used to help others.

    Start with the BASICS:

    -Compression Test
    -Spark Test (REPLACE SPARK PLUGS NOW!!!)
    -Fuel Quality and Delivery
    -Acclerator Pump and DELIVERY CHECK VALVE checks


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  5. Member
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    #5
    Perfect thanks for the check list :). I'll go through it Saturday. As for fuel I go through a lot so its always fresh and I use 91. Only reason is to cut down on ethanol and Not for performance as this engine calls for 87. I will call auto parts store today and inquire about compression tester
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  6. Member
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Muskyhunter1 View Post
    As for fuel I go through a lot so its always fresh and I use 91. Only reason is to cut down on ethanol and Not for performance as this engine calls for 87.
    Don't do that, 91 does not burn the same as 87. If your burning alot of gas than a little ethanol isn't going to hurt, it's not sitting in there long enough to accumulate alot of water,stay on top of your preventative maintenance on your fuel delivery side, fuel lines, bulb, fuel filter. Burning 91 will do more harm than good.

    I see your in Ontario, google ethanol free gas stations and fill up your tank when your ready to winterize at one of those locations with 87, use Don's cocktail mix throughout the year and I use a little more stabilizer for winterization since the boat disappears for 5 months.
    Last edited by Bob McKenzie; 09-03-2015 at 07:24 AM.

  7. Member
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob McKenzie View Post
    Don't do that, 91 does not burn the same as 87. If your burning alot of gas than a little ethanol isn't going to hurt, it's not sitting in there long enough to accumulate alot of water,stay on top of your preventative maintenance on your fuel delivery side, fuel lines, bulb, fuel filter. Burning 91 will do more harm than good.

    I see your in Ontario, google ethanol free gas stations and fill up your tank when your ready to winterize at one of those locations with 87, use Don's cocktail mix throughout the year and I use a little more stabilizer for winterization since the boat disappears for 5 months.
    Ditto to Bob's comments. Here's a snippet from the fuel section in the FAQs (would be good to read the rest) - http://www.bbcboards.net/mercury-3-l...8-26-15-a.html

    Fuel Selection:

    Make your fuel selections based on the following criteria, IN THE FOLLOWING ORDER:

    -High Traffic, Top-Tier (Name Brand) Fuel
    -Appropriate Octane Rating (see above info)
    -Lowest possible ethanol content (NEVER to exceed 10%).
    -While it may be preferable to utilize a fuel that contains lower (or no) ethanol, use of fuels that are SUBSTANTIALLY higher octane can result in decreased performance, decreased fuel economy, and potential for carbon buildup. Higher octane fuels burn SLOWER and COOLER.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  8. Member
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    #8
    Wow! Thanks :). I figured that was a way to cut ethanol. I'm pretty every pump I've ever been too including three other provinces it says maybe contain up to 10% ethanol. :(

    i plan on or planned on babying this thing and was going to do a lot of preventive maintenance, however, I haven't had the boat that long and I've had to adjust the trailer, install brakes, re wire battery connection for trolling motor, fix livewell leaks and now the motor died. I got a good deal on the boat and now I think I know why.
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  9. Member
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    #9
    Non-ethanol is hard to find in my area too and pumps here say the same as what you see. All I've ever used is E10 87 octane (except when hauling fuel to the boat, then I'll use 89 if it has been awhile since I topped off) always with Quickstor and Quickleen, and I haven't had a single problem in over 6yrs. I choose Quickstor year round because I cannot guarantee I'll use all the fuel (48gals) within 30 days, and sometimes may go 6 - 8 weeks between outings. I'm one who believes in the keeping the tank full all the time. It has worked for me so far.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


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    #10
    Use the quicksilver/Mercury line of fuel treatments 1,2,3 as needed.

  11. Member
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    #11
    I'll definitely stick to merc stuff now ha ha. I found a place that sells the merc 2 cycle for same price I pay for Lucas 2 cycle.

    Today I showed a buddy of mine the videos and he's almost certain it's a dirty carb or carbs or spark plug fowling. He said if there was an issue with a lifter or piston it would be more audible so tomorrow I'm taking the plugs out and hope that's the issue :)


    fingers crossed
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    #12
    Today took a look at the plugs and..... Ewwww! Lol.

    Ill post our pics from top plug to bottom plug. You'll notice on the 4th (bottom) plug it's fairly clean. That's because it was awkward to get seafoam in the carb. Is there anything I should do aside from changing plugs? Like fogging oil in cylinder or..... If I replace the plugs and start the motor will the new ones get fowled too??

    and I'm pretty sure the manual calls for BPNH-10 not the BPZH. Could that also make a difference?
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Muskyhunter1 View Post
    I'll definitely stick to merc stuff now ha ha. I found a place that sells the merc 2 cycle for same price I pay for Lucas 2 cycle.

    Today I showed a buddy of mine the videos and he's almost certain it's a dirty carb or carbs or spark plug fowling. He said if there was an issue with a lifter or piston it would be more audible so tomorrow I'm taking the plugs out and hope that's the issue :)


    fingers crossed
    Tell your "buddy" that your motor doesn't have a "lifter". Your spark plugs are shot.

  14. Member
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    #14
    Ok so I changed the plugs and started the motor. Still wouldn't idle it would stall. Have it gas and it would run. Removed plugs to check and there appears to be water in the cylinders. The plugs have water drops on them and the holes have water around the threads.

    Now what?!?
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  15. Member
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    #15
    That would explain white smoke (steam) and the hissing noise and popping noises. So..... WTH do I do now?! This sucks
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  16. Member
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    #16
    Compression test.
    Pull cylinder heads looking for defective gasket.
    Seek the hands on support of a qualified marine technician.

  17. Member
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    #17
    In the meantime what can I do to keep things from going bad to worse in the cylinders? Should I coat the insides with fogging oil and put plugs back in?


    also, if it were coming in from water intake system would that narrow it down? I've been reading about a water jacket gasket. Could that be it? I just want to try an narrow it down for a mechanic and get a better idea for a quote. it was connected to my hose while testing it so.....
    Last edited by Muskyhunter1; 09-05-2015 at 02:37 PM.
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  18. Member
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    #18
    I should add that after pulling plugs I cranked the motor a few times and it spit out water and crap. The second cylinder down had the most sludge and it was pouring out pretty good. Like a off white sludge.
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  19. Member
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    #19
    Definitely not a good situation. You have water getting into the motor where it does not belong; in the cylinders.
    I would do a compression test to confirm that there is a problem and where. Then, if you are going at this yourself, pull the head and coat the cylinder walls with 2 stroke oil. Manually turn over the engine to distribute the oil.The rings will rust to the cylinder walls if left as is. Examine the head gasket for a problem.
    If it's not the gasket...you are in deep doo doo. The water jacket is compromised allowing water to get where it should not be.

    If you are going to take it to mechanic, fogging each cylinder and manually turning over the engine is likely the best preventive action you can take.
    Michael Martin
    Virginia...now in Maryland
    1998 P III, 2006 200 Optimax SOLD
    2017 Robalo 226 Cayman, 200 Yamaha 4 stroke

  20. Member
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    #20
    Oh man. :(.

    Why Me?!? Lol.

    thanks for everyone's help. If it were gasket what would cause that? And if it were to be the water jacket what would cause that? Assuming it's either of the two above what would be the cost at a mechanic?!
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