E150ELEIS
G02977906
I read your sticky Champion and last year every time I would try to slowly drive my boat onto the trailer it would stall, but I had no problems at medium and high throttle. I read on another forum that there was concern would cause pre-detonation and cause excessive wear on the motor. Should I worry about any negative effects of doing this? Thanks.
It is your motor and no one is going to hold a gun to your head to force you to make the adjustment. It is a factory authorized adjustment to fix "Traileritis" just the problem you are having. If you are comfortable pushing in the choke to give the motor more fuel while you are power loading then that is cool.
Your motor is designed to have the fuel and timing advance at the exact same time. Your throttle linkage should be set so the arm is in close proximity to the timing arm. Once the throttle linkage is set then the timing roller can be set to spec.
If you aren't having any issues and you are happy with the motors performance then have a happy boating season. And welcome to the BBC.
Thanks, I guess I just wanted clarification since I know so little about motors and I appreciate your time and apologize if you thought I was questioning your judgement. Thanks, John.
No offence taken. As stated if you are happy with your motors performance then by all means don't mess with success.
On that picture you posted in the closed thread about the throttle arm roller gap, is that with the throttle at idle and the gear not engaged? I'm having the bog/stall issue trying to come off idle in gear. Just picked up this boat used 3 weeks ago and the motor is sound. It's a 1995 Hydra Sports LS175 with a matching Evinrude 150.
Correct, on a motor like yours (60 * V-6 Eagle series) the throttle and timing must move at the exact same time with each other. Nice looking boat, I saw it in FB today.
Where on FB did you see it? This is what it looks like just as the throttle blades begin to open.Originally Posted by ChampioNman
11780320_10152918348992484_1940732112_o.jpg
It does stall though when I attempt to throttle up from idle often. Does the low/high markers look correct? I also noticed the prime ball seems to get soft when it sits for a period of time like an hour or more and I have to squeeze it up a few times to get it hard again. When I can get it past that attempt at stalling point it runs great.
Oh my goodness... I had a complete brain fart! I went through this whole procedure, and when done right, it makes a monumental difference. BUT, I JUUUUUST realized I set my WOT timing to 20 Degrees ATDC!!! GAHH!!!!!! I only noticed and realized when I saw your sticker that says BTC... I'm an idiot, and I deserve all lashings, bring it on fellas
You guy's need to scroll through the threads here, your problem has been discussed many times recently. I know you will find some real good info. Then we can get down to the specifics on you motors.
Why that's the dumbest thing I've ever heard of someone else doing.I love the fact that you told us.
The good guy's tell the truth.
Ok, because I like to be totally clear on things before making any sort of adjustments or changes this is where my stuff is at.
This is what my linkage looks like with the throttle totally disengaged (in neutral).
11822211_10152919774962484_1347553863_o.jpg11806874_10152919773752484_453780796_o.jpg
Not this is what it looks like as the throttle blades are just beginning to open.
11791176_10152919799512484_344383788_o.jpg11821586_10152919800552484_1864294727_o.jpg
Is this correct?
Also. from the point where the throttle control engages into gear to the point of the throttle blades actually begin opening requires a bit of movement by the throttle control. Is this normal or should the carbs begin opening almost immediately after putting it in gear?
This is where the throttle control is at when forward gear is engaged.
11791176_10152919878657484_1092830955_o.jpg
And this is where the throttle blades just start to open.
11821586_10152919800552484_1864294727_o.jpg
So again, does all this seem normal? When the carbs are wide open the throttle control is completely 90 degrees to where it is in neutral. Thanks again!
Jughead, I come here for help, so full disclosure... I was laughing so hard when I realized what I have done... So last night I set idle timing to the 6 Degrees and WOT at 20 Degrees. Oddly, it was only 2 clicks off on the detent, so we shall see!
Did you catch the someone else doing,
It sure does, whats even more strange, is that if it was indeed off 40 Degrees, how did it even run?! I don't know how many degrees each click is, but I don't see how its possible for it to be that much. I think I was just lucky (DUMB), and didn't hurt anything. Better than when I was working on cars, I replaced a short block on a V6 VW. Had all the parts on my bench, a follower for the high pressure pump rolled off my box and I didn't notice it until after the road test and the engine didn't run.
First I would adjust the throttle cable, this will cut down on the movement. By the service manual. Disconnect the throttle cable at the throttle linkage, remove the cable trunion nut holder and pull the nut out of the cradle, shift the control handle to the first indent and then pull it back half way to neutral. At this point adjust the trunion nut to fit in the cradle and install the nut holder and shift the control handle into neutral. Now the throttle cable is installed correctly, move the throttle linkage to fit on the cable and connect it. You will have to loosen the screw that adjusts the timing roller, your linkage will now look very similar to your picture where the roller is touching the timing linkage arm. The linkage will not be touching that little post as in your first picture. Now you will adjust the timing roller so that the timing arm moves and the carbs start to open at the same time. One thing to look at is the lower throttle linkage cam that opens the carbs, Depending where you determined half way back to neutral was there could be a small gap between the cam and carb roller or almost touching, the important thing here is that the carbs should not be open when in neutral.
Well as much as I appreciate all your advice....you lost me. LOL I'm very mechanically inclined but I'm totally new to the outboard stuff. Guess I need to find/buy a service manual for this motor. I'm sure they have diagrams that help me understand what your referring too. :)
Get the real OMC service manual for your year of motor. It is much better than the after market manuals. They can be found on E-Bay. I'm sorry if I lost you, if you look at your motor you will see the black trunion nuts on the shift and throttle cables, just make sure that you take off the throttle cable and not the shift cable. If you shift your control box you will feel that first indent, you may have to turn your prop a little when shifting, When adjusting the timing and carbs pull out on the control handle and use the throttle or do it before hooking the throttle linkage to the cable. I like using the throttle. It's not rocket science, just take your time and figure out how it all works.
Are these the trunion nuts your referring too?
11806907_10152920068372484_1158036686_o.jpg
Yep, that's them.
Dan Neumann It may have been on all things bass or one of the other sites it was a picture of your new boat.
Reply With Quote
