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  1. #1
    Member
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    May 2015
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    North Central Maryland
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    3

    Need help with moving trolling motor and install anchor winch on G3 Pro175W

    As you see my profile pic, I have a Welded pro175. It has the big ( heavy) motorguide 12/24 trolling motor mounted that uses a pull cord release.

    The trolling motor really takes up a lot of real estate the way it's mounted. It's at a 45 degree angle way back from the bow so it crosses the bow completely and ends up about 9 or 10 inches back on the starboard side of the bow, making the center-line totally inaccessible to anything.

    The Big Question

    How did they mount the trolling motor to the bow? I want to move it.

    I'v searched for days for threads and videos for G3 threads about mounting trolling motors on deck platforms . - Nothing Then I discovered this G3 owners forum so here I am.

    Is that big steel channel a mounting plate the trolling motor mounts to?.. or is it the actual trolling motor assembly. (I've never had a trolling motor - especially on a 26 footer that we've owned for 27 years).

    As far as getting to anything up there - it looks like that little panel the trolling motor plug socket is mounted to ( like a 4 prong trailer socket on your truck ) is the only way to get in there - so I guess it's a reach if you're using nuts and bolts and some blue locktite might not be a bad idea.

    I assume Stainless is the only mounting hardware to use - but I read about dissimilar metals?

    My Plan Is:

    Reposition the bow mount trolling motor to a more "in line" profile so it drops in the water on the port side of the bow and does not cross the center line.

    Mount an Anchor Winch dead Center on the bow! -

    Two options I've seen -- the first one I was sold on was the Trac Auto Deploy 35 with a wireless remote.

    I had ruled out the Minn Kota because all I had really seen was the 26 pound version. It looks like it has a little pulley that you screw into the deck and it didn't look like much to me.

    Then a video of the Minn kota DH40 came up and it was a game changer!

    This guy's rig has the Minn Kota DH 40 on a G3. That's how I came up with the plan to reposition my trolling motor and take a serious look at the DH 40. I could even fabricate a one piece mounting plate that the entire winch and roller assembly mounts on and limit holes at the very front of the bow that might be needed for the roller assembly - (just a thought)


    I have the link to the video below - you've got to see it!

    Can anyone help me with what I need to consider before I start unscrewing that Motorguide?

    How is the decking up there constructed - it feels solid - I'd assume you still go all the way through and use washers and locking nuts and backing plates ( or what ever will fit through that little panel opening ( vs some type of self tapping screws)?

    I know this was a long post, but I wanted to cover what I wanted to do in detail and why.

    I hope someone who has changed their trolling motor can help me out with what I need to do so I don't go off half cocked and end up with a problem.

    We're taking it out in three weeks on vacation so I'd like to get started with the mods next week. ( It's at the shop right now where they've serviced the motor and installed an Atlas micro jacker and the new electronics. I got some 1 inch thick HDPE for them to mount the transducers ( you never know if it needs to be moved).

    Thanks for any help or insight on this project.

    Before I forget - the pedestal seats... do they pull straight out and how do you do that without tearing something up? they're pretty darned stuck if they do. It would be nice to pull the seats out for bow fishing. The seat mounting plate is covered with the carpet - is that a clue it's been re-covered at some point in time?



    Here's the guy's video.. ( it's well done BTW! )
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. Member
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    May 2015
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    North Central Maryland
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    #2

    Problem Solved...

    Well, some inspection revealed the answers to some of my questions and I'm on the start of my modifications.

    The Motorguide mount is integral with the trolling motor and the bow decking Aluminum Deck and backed with marine plywood. probably 5/8 by the feel of it since it is not a large "area" that would be stressed.

    When you remove the trolling motor DC Power Socket panel ( that also has a tilt trim switch on mine for the OB ) there is "just" enough room to squeeze my big hand in there and reach most of the way in.

    It must have been the same for the factory installer also because all of the mounting holes had 1/4" SS screws, washers and nuts except for the one furtherst away, that was a large screw.

    So, there we have it, I may think a little before I remount. I might have a mounting plate that can be "positioned" or removed. I'll keep you all posted if anyone is interested.

    I'm thinking about scrapping the bow light socket for rail mounted bow lights ( USCG approved..... not the micky mouse stick on LED's from Ebay.. ) That might work for some people until you get stopped by DNR who is naot having a good day. Out parts of the potomac we not only Md DNR, but there's Virginia, and if you want a real adventure in boating... venture up into the DC capital area of the potomac - even though it's owned my maryland, Those guys can be a real example of how easy it is to get a citation if they feel like they want to write one. ( So I've heard ).

    Below is a pic of the original Motoguide mount out for inspection.

    Woodsglen
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Texas
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    7
    #3
    I just bought a Pro 185 with the big 67 lb Motor Guide too. Have been wondering the same things. Thanks for posting, and I'll keep an eye out for any additional info -- and share mine as well.
    Live on Cedar Creek Lake

    2005 Ranger 175VS
    Yamaha 115 4-stroke

  4. Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    North Central Maryland
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    3
    #4
    As you can see from the photo, it's just bolted through the deck. the front deck has a plywood backing - just make sure your hand and arm fit in the access hole from the Trolling motor plug panel - or find someone who does that's not a total klutz because you don't want them dropping stainless hardware down your hull. Heavens knows how long it wold take for it to show up at the stern, even if you flushed it back there ( just thought of that one! ).

    Anyway - make sure you seal any old holes because you don't want water seeping in from the top of your deck and into that plywood - once that stuff goes you're SOL.
    ( keep in mind, it would take a long time to or a heck of a lot of water to do that, but a little 5500 or black silicone goes a long way towards the life of your boat.

    Since I've always had big(er) boats - like a 26foot regal, I'm a little spoiled when it comes to anchoring so that was the point of this whole endeavor.
    It had an integrated anchor roller up in the bow pulpit and two trap doors on the deck to get to the anchor so the anchor was always ready to go - just pull the pin with 300 feet of rope in the rode locker and 6 feet of chain on a danforth. Plus you had enough boat to run up on the anchor and pull from the bottom and it would towards the surface, ( I know because I had to dive down to free it once in 80 feet of water off the keys in a stiff wind and that thing took off... ) Then you start hauling in line as you run up on the anchor. Obviously you aren't going to begin to do that with a tin boat unless you want to rip the front deck off your boat, but the concept of anchoring your boat from a guide or at least a cleat dead center on the bow is just good practice, since your bow is always directly in the current and not abeam with any wind or current which just makes your boat swing back and forth - and just pulls that much harder on the anchor - which is probably not a plow or danforth so you're just going to drag the bottom. Frankly, anchoring from the stern in any current or getting slammed with a big wake in a small boat is dangerous and it would not be the first boat to be pulled under by a hung anchor or swamped.

    I just got the Minnkota deck hand 40 anchor winch (which is designed for mushrooms and river anchors ) So I'll keep you posted on pics if you're interested.

    I also just got the Lowrance HD9 gen3 - I'll be truly honest, contact Jon at Southtackle in Va. Beach. if you're on The Hull Truth - he's a member -

    Call or email Jon at sales at southtackle.com ( did not want spammers to pick up the address so you know what to do.)

    His service is outstanding and he has been a big help - I placed an order on Monday and an hour later wanted to add something and it had already been shipped!

    I won't go into details, but he can tell you everything you need to know about pricing and shipping. ( that is if you need something. )

    If you're not on THT, just tell him Woodsglen from thehulltruth sent you his way.

    I'm going to mount my DH 40 dead center and mount the roller and guide out as far as I can. My gut feeling is - to go over to a trucking fabrication place i know and have them cut me a piece plate Aluminum in an outline to match the footprint of the winch and then mount the roller assembly on that ( allowing just a little more room over the bow - and if nothing else - having that roller assembly bolted to something that's secured to the entire deck area - rather than the very front of the bow which is going to be the hardest to get to - and frankly - be more prone to stress and the potential to rip out screw inserts than I'm comfortable with. Sorry for the long post but I wasn't sure how far along you were or what your goal was.
    Sorry for any typos - I type 3 or 4 fingers and think faster than I can type.
    Wayne

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