Thinking about purchasing a 188D

[Roaster]

I am thinking about purchasing a 1997 Cobra 188d with a 150 EFI. There is an issue with the surge brakes. The owner thinks something is rusted up in the drums because it was not used for 5 years. The hydraulics work. I plan to look at the boat this weekend. Is there anything I should look for specifically or be concerned about regarding this boat and motor?

[TomM]

Besides the things in this article: http://www.bassboatcentral.com/buyingusedboat.htm, no, not really. I have the same boat, same year, but a single console version. You won't find a bigger 18' boat. For a boat it's size, the front deck, beam, and rod lockers are huge. I bought mine in 2002 and the boat itself has been trouble free, and I store it outside year round so it's exposed to the elements more than if it were garaged. I run a Yamaha 150 on mine and I get a top speed of 57 mph or so and the ride is excellent. It's a super stable platform to fish off of as well. The things I don't like is the size of the access hatch to the bilge but that's common to all Cobra/Viper models and the fact that the cooler is behind the passenger seat so you loose a storage compartment there unless you don't use it as a cooler.

Tom

[BassCatCowboy]

I have the same boat and really like it. My dad also has a 97 188D mine is a 2000 model. I would suggest you call ezloader trailers and ask them about the brakes. I have a 175 EFI and I have see 71mph totally empty no gear 5 gals of gas and 1 guy with empty livewells. Now that my boat is loaded on tourny day I see 65 or 66 GPS all day long. with 2 guys and gear and 3/4 tank of gas so it runs like a scaled dog here in missouri. I am sure Backlash will chime in.. Good luck with the boat

[dc]

Roaster, I have a 2000 Viper 190(188) with a 200 Merc EFI. The boat has been really solid. Any shop could go over the brakes and fix you up in short order without breaking the bank. I would have the motor checked out by a mechanic before buying. I am not sure what year boats were affected by a bad gelcoat issue, but I think it was after '97, and you would be able to see any defects if there were any. I would be most concerned about making sure the motor is healthy(EFI's are not bulletproof like some would say) , and I would look over the trailer very carefully to make sure there are no serious rust issues starting. I would check to make sure there are holes drilled in the trailer at the lowest points of the crossbeams, and that these holes are not clogged up with anything, like plastic baggies shoved in there by lazy riggers. CobraBassBuster, I am really interested in your numbers on your boat. I would like to know your setup. I have the same boat, with a 200 EFI, 25 tempest and 8 inch plate. When I first got the boat I really played around with my setup for about two years. After having Rich Boger work my prop for best speed, the best I ever did solo was 69-70 mph GPS and 66-67 with a moderate 2 man load. Right now in the heat, the best I can get is about 63-64 GPSwith 3/4 tank of gas and two guys and 67 by myself with an half tank of gas. Do you have a special light layup hull, more setback, or motor mods? It sounds like you would go right by me with the same boat and a smaller motor!

[BassCatCowboy]

I am not sure on what the hull is. I am running a 10" plate and a 24p worked prop. about 7/8th below the pad. Right now in this heat with a load at a tournament 2 weeks ago I got 64-65 with 1/2 tank of gas. so really we are about the same but I have a smaller motor. where do you live also. what is the altitude? My dad has the same boat but it is a 97 with an 03 200 efi and all hea can get is 62mph with a 25p trophy but he only has a 6" plate and I dont think he is really to worried about it. I dont think he has been faster than 40mph in 2 or 3 years.

[dc]

I suspected you had some more setback and running higher, though I am surprised you can run it that high. I am at around 3.25 inched below pad and my water psi is on the borderline of being safe at 12-13 psi@ wot. When I go higher I cannot hold water pressure, especially in the turns. I am in Ohio so altitude does not come into play. I need to get my prop reworked due to a few minor dings to get my numbers back to where they used to be.

[BassCatCowboy]

I am sorry about the typo that is 2 7/8" sorry about that

[R.A.D.man]

I have the same in a 1999. When I bought it, the brakes were shot. Called EZloader, looked at the website, bought parts and now works perfect. I recommend you just replace the whole brake plate complete with new pads, springs and wheel cylinders on both sides and get the ones that have the anti reverse lockup built into the plates by way of an extra spring or two. I also bought a new shock absorber that goes behind the master cylinder in the tongue to fix the jerkiness when stopping and starting. All told, a little over $200.00 and it's been great since. Bleeding the brakes is tougher than replacing the parts.

As far as the boat goes, after visual inspection by you, if you want it, but your not real comfortable mechanically, let a dealer check it out. It's sat for a long while, get them to verify every control, pump, switch, light, gauge, trolling motor, steering, hydraulics, TV's, batteries etc. work. Anything that doesn't, negotiate. The seller priced it assuming these things worked, he doesn't know either if it sat for 5 years.

Good luck, I am very happy with mine.

[BassCat78]

I have a 1996 188D cobra viper, 6" hyro jackplate 1996 200 EFI. Best boat anyone could have.

Replaced the brakes at the being of the year. It is easy to do, recommend replacing the backing plate as a complete assemb/w new piston, 4 bolts and the brake line. To bleed the system, I used the winch strap on the trailer, put the hook on the front where the ball goes and crank, bleed the brakes, repeat until everything is bleed off.

[MigAz]

If you choose to replace the wheel cylinder, make sure you replace it with an aluminum variant. Stay away from the cast steel. The aluminum won't rust and stick like the cheaper steel ones will.