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  1. #1
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    Boat Driving 101...

    Okay - so one of the best things about this forum is all the knowledge I've gained from the members and how helpful everybody's been.

    As an example - I think I've finally got it down on how to come off plane and not roll a wave over the back of the boat.

    I've had plenty of boat driving experience if you count 30 years of running a jon boat but these go-fast bass boats are a different breed. I've been in a few glass boats over the years and they are ALL sweet by comparison to aluminum jon boats - but I've learned (and now experienced) that Champs really do set the standard for nice rides. Sio many people have caught me at the ramp and talked about Champion being the best riding boat they've ever been in. It just amazes me.

    So - my question is - just when, where and how are you gonna really set the boats apart performance wise. I've watched that video that Gunnar put together -and I'm not gonna even attemp those 'hydro-batics' that Goff and other serious drivers do but ...

    I'd really like to know some more tips, tricks and other things that ya'll have learned.

    For example - I've learned you can NOT 'drive thru' a chine walk. Heck - I didn't even know what that was before I started hanging around here.

    but how rough does it have to before you really gotta change your driving?
    my Champ's a 181 - I know it can't do or handle some of the conditions the big 20+ boats can do - or can it? It turns like it's on rails at speeds I wouldn't have thought possible. And I rarely try to maxx it out - Instead I just like to get up to a nice cruising speed of 35-45 and dang -it feels like I'm floating across the water in conditions that would have rattled my teeth in my jon boat.

    when it is rough, do you still wanna get it up on top and just drive thru the bad stuff or what? How do you wanna tackle that rough stuff?


    My bro-in-law has a 20 ProCraft Fish and Ski and I've been in some nasty waves with him (mostly from other boats, not weather related) and it beats the snot out of you. I guess that's how a lot of glass boats ride?

    I was in a bug boat last summer down on Lake Toho in FL but it was like glass - so every boat's gonna ride nice in that situation. It was nice to fish off - very stable, lotta room - nice boat - but at what point does the Skeeter start to pale by comparison.

    So, can my 181 take stuff that other, lesser boats (tho bigger) are gonna have problems with?

    I dunno - I guess I'm just kinda casting a wide net here to see what kinda comments I catch. Just reading all's your posts is great.

    And thanks for sharing - I've learned a ton in the year and a half or so I've hung around here. Hoping to learn a little more.



    Modified by ILRiverRat at 10:18 AM 7/14/2010

  2. Champion Boats Moderator Lea's Avatar
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    #2

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (ILRiverRat)

    Others, more experienced than I , will chime in...but for now...

    You CANNOT "drive thru" chine walk. You have to learn to drive to PREVENT it. It will take seat time, and even better, a buddy who has learned and can show you.

    and we are very glad you joined us back then!!!

  3. Pat Goff
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    #3

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (ILRiverRat)

    It's pretty simple of you let it be simple...

    You have great V hull design, let it work for you. The rougher it gets, the more you want it working, so let the water conditions dictate your trim angle. As it gets rough, or you SEE that cruiser wake approaching, level the hull down so that the V in the hull takes the impact away. The more you experiment the easier and quicker you'll get it.

    And all that said...a half hour spent on the lake with a experienced pilot will take away months of trying to figure it out on your own..

    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

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  4. Member
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    #4

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (pmgoffjr)

    Don't have to worry about torpedoing the nose if you get 'too level'? See this is the stuff that makes me want more info.

    In my jon boat - I'd do just the opposite. I'd try to get that nose up in the air and just plow thru it. It's slow and it hammers you - but you an get thru it.

    I crossed behind a crusier one time. Hitting the waves that were approaching me wasn't fun - but I got thru it - but then I opened her back up and when I went WITH the waves - I about dived it in. I learned that one when I was young. Never had a repeat after that....

    I saw a huge difference going from a 1652 jon to an 1860. Wondering about the difference on the glass hulls... (length v. width etc)

  5. Old Scout Lpolk's Avatar
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    #5

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (ILRiverRat)

    It all amounts to, keeping it on the pad. The more often you drive the more fimilar you will become with what that means. As said before the Champion hull will work for you. It is the only boat that I know of, that the driver input is not as critical as some others. Your BUTT will give you all the information about what the pad is trying to do, the object of the game is to not let it do it. The more you trim the more it tries to slip off the pad, that's when your driving comes in to play. It all about keeping it on that narrow pad at all cost. With a Champion try not to over correct because it only takes small amounts of corrections, the( Hull) will do the rest. As for rough stuff, I run better in a little chop rather than a glassy top. The Boat will handle it. You may have to trim a little to get her going, after that it's history.
    IBEW

  6. Member
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    #6

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (Lpolk)

    I torpedoed the nose and the trolling motor will tare off!

  7. Banned
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    #7

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (rid 05 198)

    I always found that speed is the most critical when driving a 18ft or a 21ft boat. Finding the right speed to let the hull do its job and make your ride back to the ramp enjoyable and dry. Its just like finding the sweet spot on your trim to make your hull lift and run (like a Champ). I also beleive that a 4 blade prop is a must in rough water running..It gives you the control/lift you need to get up and down over the nasty waves and still smile at the ramp when everyone else is pissing blood or complaining..

  8. Member
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    #8

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (ILRiverRat)

    Will your boat take the same stuff as the bigger boats? Yes it will as long as the waves are close enough together. On some days down here the waves are far enough apart as to cause a problem that the long boats handle better. Your best teacher is rough water, find some and burn some gas. The one thing you really have to watch for is those days when the next wave is too far away for you to reach it....that nose dive can be damaging and is not fun at all.

  9. Member
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    #9

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (FEARTHETURTLE210)

    so back to my original question..

    How 'rough' is rough? Are we talking 1-2' waves - 3' ? 4'? just what CAN they take and still be okay.

    At the IL High School Bass Fishing State Final - that was held at Carlyle lake - there were sustained 30 mph winds and gusts to 40. I can't believe they still went out. Now they DID restrict the teams to the west side of the lake after 12 pm - but there were a LOT of teams that went out in Aluminum boats and I can't imagine the butt kicking they got.

    I think I'da been okay in my Champ - but I split a hull on a friends Ozark bass boat one day on Carlyle in 30 mph winds. It can get bad out there. We weren't in danger - but it totaled his baot. We realized we were taking on water so we had to head back to the ramp.

    I was the driver and felt bad - but he was too scared to drive - so he wanted me to...

    that's what I'm trying to find out more about....

    thanks all - this is good stuff!

  10. Member
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    #10

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (FEARTHETURTLE210)

    Ive run my 181 in some 2-3' stuff, thats 4-6' from crest to trough, lots of throttle response, the right trim, and hitting it at the correct angle will keep it from launching off one wave and slamming the next, although ive still done it a few times. Finding a good speed is the most important thing I think, if the waves are farther apart it makes it much more difficult to go with/against them.

  11. Member
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    #11

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (ILRiverRat)

    Champs eat 2 footers for breakfast. I run 3-4's all the time on T-Bend but you have to drive in that stuff and they have to be close enough together. I've speared a few also, experience helps to avoid that fate. In the rougher stuff, I am NOT up on pad, down trim is your friend.

  12. Banned
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    #12

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (Charlie206)

    In my 210, I take 4fters+ very serious..2's and 3's are fine depending on the wind and current and the spacing of the waves..Those pop up thunderstorms can blow a 1-2 ft water to 5ft+ in a real hurry on the Potomac River..Mother nature is nothing to brag about, i love this Champion but I love getting to the boat ramp even more (in 1 piece)

  13. Member champion4life's Avatar
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    #13

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (ILRiverRat)

    congratulations on a great post! these types of post bring out more knowledge, information, and experience than you can imagine. you got two types of responses: <u>safety </u> = let the V-hull do its job. this will put you in the 40- 45 rpm range on rough days. the more experienced responses included trim angle, and <u>throttle responses</u>, etc. hot foots make throttle response driving easier (and more fun in my opinion- and that's all it is - my opinion). this type of driving requires a lot of work and attention on your part as the driver. you can stay on pad more often but not for long. great advice was given on not over correcting a ChampioN. i've owned a 17' champ w' a 115 before my 19' w/ a 200; my .02 cents is worth something.

    Chevy, Titleiest, Suzuki, Phoenix 921( still got Champion 193 )- why drive anything else?!!

  14. Member
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    #14

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (FEARTHETURTLE210)

    Good point and I agree 100%, above 4', or maybe less if they are too far apart to stay on top, I drop down and trim the engine up to the tilt point and give it what I call "quarter throttle", enough throttle to stand the front end high in the air and not enough to make it break over. Then try to just make forward progress. I've got too much money in the boat and back surgery to be cute when mother nature is angry. It takes a long time to get anywhere but on those occasions when I was stupid and let the weather sneak up on me, I've always made it in, and I've walked it thru 6-7's twice. I was particularly stupid on those two days.

  15. #15

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (ILRiverRat)

    I run a 206, and it took me several months to learn all the different skills needed to be able to do what these guys tell you, because I too,came from a metal boat. It takes seat time and knowing the limitations of your current skill level. In time it will come natural to u. But I think the MOST important thing is not getting over confident, taking the mind set of waiting just a little longer to get off the lake or go when you shouldn't. This happened to me once and trust me, once is enough, I was on a lake here in Texas, and I waited to long, I got caught in a complete gray out, could not tell where the land, water or sky started, 40-45mph winds, 7-9 ft waves (swells) and raining sideways. I usually turn my routes on the gps unit, but for some reason I left them on. I ended up following my trail back just to reach land, To this day I believe that owning a Champion, and my skills that I learned over time got me thru that, course the big guy above may have had a hand in it too. After getting back and settling my nerves with a case of Bud Longnecks, I promised myself never again will I put myself or my partner in that spot again.

    Be Safe


  16. Member
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    #16

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (Gaspergoo)

    Thanks for all the great replys folks. Fortunately - I don't think I"ve ever been in a real hairy situation. Prolly the worst was maybe 2 footers. I'm just wanting to be armed with more info if I DO get caught in the soup.

    Sounds like my hotfoot will be a help but I really need to install the blinker style trim switch so I can keep both hands on the wheel.


    I'm getting there - but I sure like hearing all the advice and stories. (keep 'em coming!!)


    sounds like the best thing going for me is that great Champ hull.

  17. Pat Goff
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    #17

    Re: Boat Driving 101... (ILRiverRat)

    Your butt will tell you what to do, if it tells you you're banging it too hard, adjust your trim and speed accordingly.
    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

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  18. Member MMosher's Avatar
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    #18
    Thats some simple and true advise, well put Pat.

  19. Member
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    #19

    Re: (MMosher)

    I think I need to take you guys on a nice ride in a jon boat in some good rollers. Your butt (and the soaking you'll get ) - will tell ya to head back to the ramp....

  20. Member
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    #20

    Re: (ILRiverRat)

    After 60 years on inland and high-seas ( US Navy ret.) I'm still afloat, lots of fine advise here
    but get out and learn you vessel. Pat's speed & trim are critical,,but remember to take the waves a few degrees off your bow,,kinda like splitting the brute force of the waves. Timing is critical but having a Champion under your Butt really helps.
    I once spent nine days in 60-70 foot seas aboard a Destroyer, DD 788,,worst part was being unable to cook!!!!
    ****2008 203 LE ****
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