2000 175 Ficht Problem

[dubsrub]

I've got a 1999 Ficht, Model E175FPLEE Serial 04723087

BUT, it has a 2000 powerhead as the original did not make 50 hrs. This one has 700hrs

It has a nagging problem that has existed for probably two years now. Tourney service techs, dealers etc all can see it but have not been able to make a dent in it, it leaves them scratching their heads...

The motor idles REALLY slow at startup, probably half normal idle, then gradually builds up to normal idle over a full 30secs to a minute cold. This problem is really bad when the motor is cold, and gets progressively better as the motor warms up. Idle is really uneven when its cold. Probably as a side effect or symptom of this problem is that half the time when you shift the motor the motor will die. And half the time you touch the hot foot to accelerate it will die. The motor also runs rough in lower ranges just above idle getting onto plane in gear. If you accelerate out of gear, the motor is pretty smooth. Can't notice any type of "miss" running around at higher rpms.

I can tell you this from what I have done myself on the motor in the last couple of days:
1) Compression was an even 95 across all cylinders.
2) The fuel circ pump and oil lift pump have been changed with no change to the problem.
3) Fuel pressure holds at 30psi on the rail with the fuel pump off, no injectors seem to be leaking.
3) I have consistent strong spark at all plugs cranking, I've been thru a million plugs with no change in the problem.
4) Turning the prop with the motor in gear with the plugs out, the motor turns fine with even solild resistance.
5) Reed banks were pulled out and all normal.
6) The following items have been changed by tourney techs or dealer and have not resulted in any changed:
ECU
TPS
Big Blue capacitor
Electronics filter

Anyway, I would love to go further on this and find this problem just for my own sanity. I can't help but think its related to a hotfoot/shift cable adjustment, shift interrupt switch, air temp switch or something like that...

Any advice appreciated. I have the 1.42 version of software for this motor, but was having trouble getting it to run on XP. I see there is post about that up now, so I will try that and see if I had any luck.

Thanks
Mark

[Danrude]

Mark, giving that the powerhead was replaced and the symptoms you give, look at doing the sync and lync and check the timing making sure you verify the timing pointer setting. make sure all grounds to the block are clean and tight. I am assuming that since you have the software you have a repair manual. The guru's should be along later and help steer you in the right direction.
Dan

[PershingRoad]

I don't see the fuel lift pump in your list. Pull one of the fuel lift pump impulse lines off of the block, then squeeze the fuel primer bulb. If fuel squirts out, you have a ruptured fuel lift pump diaphragm. This will dump fuel into the crankcase and trash your idle.

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dubsrub &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got a 1999 Ficht, Model E175FPLEE Serial 04723087

BUT, it has a 2000 powerhead as the original did not make 50 hrs. </TD></TR></TABLE>


If you have a 2000 powerhead, the motor will have 3 thermostats and the engine "computer" will be a flat rectangular box with a black plastic cover on the visible side with 2 water hoses and a small hose for the exhaust sensor going to the lower stb. side of the engine block.

If you just have a different block but still the '99 model, the computer is all metal and there is no small rubber hose going to an exhaust pressure sensor, just the two 5/16" ID rubber water hoses.

Which one is yours?

[loulouton]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEAHORSE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you just have a different block but still the '99 model, the computer is all metal and there is no small rubber hose going to an exhaust pressure sensor, just the two 5/16" ID rubber water hoses.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some early 2000 models (suffix SSV) have a "metal" computer (ECU) instead of a plastic covered one (EMM). The right clues are indeed the exhaust pressure sensor, the pinned cylinders and the 3 thermostats.

[dubsrub]

Ok, here is the latest update....

1) Was able to follow the instructions on this board to get the Diagnostic running
on my machine.

2) I did check the lift pump as requested, no fuel out of the pulse lines pumping the bulb hard.

3) I have the ECU with the plastic top. Part # 586484E Serial # 00003157

4) Very interesting - I did the Drop Test, it seems I have a problem with #3. The engine is hard to start and is idling like crap as usual. When i did the drop test, every cylinder dropped the rpm drastically EXCEPT #3. It slows a little bit, but not really much at all, so it looks to me like #3 is not firing correctly... Idling at 650.

5) I have strong spark at #3 from the Ignition Test. I pull the plug, I have a white very fuzzy wide dot on it, its not the neat white dot I normaly see but obviously the plug itself is firing. The backside of the plug looks a little bit moist.

5) #3 Injector clicks on the Injector test....

It seems to me like this injector must be fouled and globbing fuel in there....
But can I be sure its a not a signal problem with the ECU? Whats my next move? Can I just pull that injector and take it down to the dealer for testing?

Any suggestions appreciated, I am standing by with wrenches in hand.

[PershingRoad]

No, you cant bench test an injector. BRP or DFI might have what it takes, but us dealers do not.

Don't forget that the idle controller will work to maintain engine speed below approx. 1000 RPM (2% TPS), so make sure you are above that when doing a cylinder drop test.

[TxAgs97]

All of the problems listed above sound very similar to what I experienced with my 1998 Ficht 175. I fought to correct the problems with out success for at least 3 months and finally the motor totally stopped. We took it apart and found a scored cylinder wall. The crazy thing was that the compression on that cylinder was fine. I'm not sure if the bad cylinder was the cause of the problem but it might be something to investigate on your motor.