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  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    TN
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    1

    where to place stern cradle or supports when lifting boat off trailer

    Hi there, first post, new member.

    I've got a 1999 Tracker PT175, and I need to replace the bunk boards and bunk carpet. I'm fairly handy, so fabbing them up should be no problem as I'll use the old ones as templates. There are a few questions I have, though.

    Firstly, the ones on the trailer now are about 8'-8" long, and appear to be 2x4's but seem thinner than a regular 2x4, being only about 1-¼" thick. I bought a 2"x8"x8' piece of cypress, planning to rip it into two lengthwise, then joint and plane smooth, glue BassPro carpet on the top, sides and ends, leaving the bottom bare for drying, and will use Monel staples as well. The boat is on the trailer right now, and doesn't even touch the front 18" or so of the bunks. Would going from 8'-8" to 8' even be that big a deal? As it is now, the front part of the bunk isn't supporting any weight. Also, would I need to thin this rough cut (2" actual thickness) cypress down to 1-¼"? I'm not sure these are the original boards or not as I bought the boat used. Seems like a little thicker would be better, but not enough to prevent them from conforming to the hull shape for maximum support. How thick is ideal for cypress?

    Secondly, since I have to do this on land, I plan to raise the boat just enough to be able to get SS bolts (I'm ditching the lag screws) that will be recessed and carpeted over on the new bunks through the top of the bunk brackets when I install them. I'm familiar with, through research only, the method of lowering the trailer tongue, supporting the stern, raising the tongue, then jacking under the keel nearer the front. No trees or anything to use front eye hook to lift by, but that may be a good thing, not sure how strong that is on this boat! I may either make a cradle or use jack stands, not sure yet. Cradle could be made more stable. That all being said, since this boat has what I believe is called a "stepped" hull, where do I place the cradle? I'll try to describe it - the bottom of the hull, the "V" shaped part, doesn't go all the way to the transom. There is a "flat" area under the very rear of the stern. The vertical section that is the end of the V shaped part is where the plug, live well outflow, etc. are. Do I cradle under the flat part under the transom, or under the V part of the hull just in front of that?

    Here's a picture (not my boat, but similar construction):

    th.jpeg

    Wow - my first post and I'm putting folks through the ringer already! I promise I'll post pics of fish later!

    Thanks, in advance, for your help!
    Last edited by hsh; 05-29-2014 at 06:24 PM. Reason: trying to post picture

  2. Member
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    1,799
    #2
    One floor jack is good, two are better.
    Measure the width of trailer at the tires.
    buy a 4x4 post that long. Get 4-6 concrete blocks, 3 per side at the front, place them the width of trailer.
    Try to notch a "V" in the center of 4x4, lay it across the blocks where the bow eye is,bow eye fits in notch.
    You ll need a couple of jackstands or blocks for the rear.
    Jack up the rear,slid blocks under it, might use carpet samples, raise the front jack on keel, place 4x4 under bow eye, slide trailer out
    Support front with blocks as needed.
    MAKE sure transom tie downs are loose.

  3. Member haveme1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Mint Hill NC
    Posts
    20,786
    #3
    I used a 2x6 and my truck jack to raise mine to put new bunks on. The bow roller held the bow.
    I don't under stand why one would not use lag bolts.
    **
    Life is kinda hard but it's
    better than the other options .. er ..option !

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Benton, KY
    Posts
    5,144
    #4
    Do you have to do it without launching the boat? It won't take log to do it in the parking lot at the ramp if you have everything you need.

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    high rock lake, North Carolina
    Posts
    2,348
    #5
    always fixed my new bunks with new wood and capet at home, next trip to the lake , launched the boat and swapped them right out in the parking lot, battery drill and few simple hand tools and 20 minutes at the ramp parking lot and its over.

  6. Member CastingCall's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    5,883
    #6
    I did mine in the garage, lifting the boat the least amount required to slide the bunks out as needed. Made a vee-block for the transom. On a tin boat, place the block directly under the transom/hull edge for max. hull support. Avoid small pressure points which could dent or crack welds - large blocking areas are best! Here's a DIY with some pics if they help:
    http://www.bbcboards.net/trailers-to...nk-carpet.html

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