Greg, can you help??

[texags_99]

Guys,
I'm still trying to get my Blazer 202 Pro V set up properly. I've got the 27P Tempest Plus even with the pad, Merc 250XS, sporty 1.62:1 gearcase. When I get going around 70mph the boat begins listing from one side to other (not really chinewalking) and gets really unstable. I can't give it more than 1/4 trim and it's really loose. Steering is tough
Additionally, we were fishing a tournament this weekend and had both livewells full. When trying to get on plane, the motor would slip to the rev limiter as the bow was falling and it took forever to get it up on plane. Had to move a man to front of boat to get bow over.

Do I really need a four blade prop? Will it give me some stability at WOT. I'm not really worried about going 85mph, I just want it to be safe at higher speeds and be able to plane out tourney loaded. Thanks!!

[Rebel1]

My first question is how long have you had the boat and how much experience do you have in running a high performance boat? The listing side to side is chinewalking and it takes seat time to learn to drive through it. The motor needs to come up more for better handling and having a balanced and blueprinted prop helps as well. Check your load in the boat and make sure it is as balanced as can be.
Now, as far as the holeshot goes, and any time you have the motor height as high we do to get these things to run, the prop will slip when the boat breaks over, nature of the beast, unless you run a prop like a Bravo 1 or Hydromotive Quad IV-X O/B. Both of these props are better fishing props on our rigs than anything else.

[JOHN202]

Like Rebel said you for sure need more seat time to be able to drive that boat.I have a TXP 0\T 26 4-blade that i like to run in the summer months when i fish tournaments. I'm not that worried about speed and i love the way this prop handles.I think you will like the 4 blade so give one a try.

JOHN202

[RedBlazer]

T99,
Be careful trying to drive "through it"!
I'm no pro now by any means, but when I started driving hp hulls about 6 years ago, it was with a Stratos ASX and I was told to "drive through it" by someone on another board. I took it literally and thought I had to keep giving it to er' and just plow through it like it would stop once I hit a certain speed... NOPE!...danged neared killed me and the wife both! With seat time I mastered the ASX, and now the blazer's a walk in the park. As Todd Morgan would say, I can drive it with one hand and eat a bologna samich with the other...

There's really no driving through it, you have to almost anticipate it and steer around it. I can't explain how, Jason, Greg and some of the others here can explain it way better than I can, so I'll leave that to them.

Good Luck! Greg should be along to help with your set up.

I Put a 4 blade on mine and it's more stable and has better hole shot! Just carries the load much better!

[texags_99]

Thanks, guys. I noticed my water pressure was around 12 PSI at WOT, so I don't know if I can go up much more, so I went down on the jackplate 1/2" below the pad and am going to try it there this weekend. The chinewalking is unlike anything I've experienced before. The bow doesn't swing left to right, the whole boat lists right to left like it's going to barrel roll. Scary stuff!! Then once I slow down and hammer it again, the stern feels like it starts sliding left to right.

I did notice I was able to achieve a higher speed with the livewells full rather than empty, but getting on plane was next to impossible without moving someone up to the front until the the bow came down.

I guess I'll keep trying to figure it out, but it sounds like a TXP four blade is something I need to look into as well.

[GE Blazer]

The 4 blades seem to run much better on the SM gearcases for some reason. I think a 26 TXP O/T4, 28 Bravo I, or a 27 Hydromotive Quad IV X-OB would all be good on there. The will give you an excellent holeshot and handle a little better on topend. With the Bravo or Hydromotive prop you will need to have them worked by mark and add dual PVS holes. let me know if i can help you find something.

[Fear-This]

Look, take all the crap out your boat, just for one day... just you gas and a big wrench. Your boat is going side to side because ,your not on the back of pad water is hitting on middle of boat on both sides which cause that side to side action. LOOK, DRIVE THROUGH MEANS..give it more gas or less as your moving steering wheel left to right GENTLY C if it CALMS DOWN... It does not mean give it a shi... load of gas and C if she stops. GOOD luck you need more seat time you will get it.

[Mark G]

Unless there is something drastically wrong with the hull or the motor/jackplate isn't mounted straight or is loose,then it's like others have said, you need to learn to drive the boat. It can be frustrating to learn but once you figure it out you will say what took me so long.

[jeff210]

i dont have a 202, i have a 210, but my tempest ran better below the pad. also lowering the jackplate will keep it from cavitating so much on holeshot. may need some pvs plugs adjusted.

[RedBlazer]

Hi Fear - question here...maybe I'm in left field...I thought chine walkin' was cuz u are back on the pad and then begin to teeter off the pad due to the rotation of the prop. It kinda' pushes ya' off one direction. When it falls off you hit and den' ya' bounce to the other side and then bounce to the other side giving the walkin' effect?
What's with the not on pad and the water in the middle of the hull theory?
Maybe I'm missing sumptin' here?

[Fear-This]

Look, your right, I'm trying to get him to visualize it a little further up or back because he obviously is having major issues . My boat chime walks everywhere but the pad. you must have the perfect setup, if some boys down here have problems with prop rotation and chime issues I'll send them to ya.

[RedBlazer]

No, you do just fine, Fear...keep em' down there.

later!

[Fear-This]