E 150 Consuming Powerpacks?

[Graembo]

1995 150 Intruder E150GLEOM
This is my 3rd powerpack this summer (since I've owned this engine)

This time I've lost spark on the starboard 3 cyls. In May and July it was the port bank that had no spark. Both times the new powerpack had me up & running again.

The last few times out, when in "quick start" mode, it would have a sporadic/ very rough idle (shaking quite a bit) then once it got off "quick start" it idled perfectly.

Then 2 nights ago I just came off plane (after a 15 min run @~4000 RPM) and it was into the 3 cyliner "trick" again.

My battery is a new Trojan Dual purpose, and the wires are TIGHT on it. Has anyone seen an issue like this before?

Thanks in advance
Graeme

[ChampioNman]

As long as you have a BRP tech install them, then you are covered via warranty.

[Graembo]

I had the last one covered under warranty. So hopefully this one will be as well.

Does anyone have a part# for this "electric eye" that I've read about replacing with the powerpack? This was not done when the pack was replaced last.

This being stranded and 4 hr electric troll back to the dock is getting OLD!

Thanks,
G

[RUSTY63]

EET for your motor is part number 586343 @ $65.99.

[Graembo]

TY Rusty!
I should be up & running by the weekend, going with a new stator also. I can't afford to be left low & wet again!

[SEAHORSE]

My guess would have been a stator problem, even though it could test OK per the manual. When they have the flywheel off, look for black melted insulation that puddled on the top of the crankcase. It usually has a smooth glossy look to it. I am assuming that you are using the required locknuts on the battery terminals and not the wing nuts, right?

Also make sure that your shift linkage is adjusted correctly and there is no binding or sticking of the bushings. The shift interupter switch could be triggering occasionally, cutting out one bank of cylinders.

[Graembo]

OK will look for the melted insulation (hopefully there's some) My batteries have stainless hex nuts with a stainless washer under the nut and I am anal about checking them for tightness. (is this safe?!)

I'll have the mech check the shift linkage. We checked that originally when the first powerpack went because the "revvs vs GO" of the motor felt like it wasn't engaging all the way (we'd just done an impeller swap) or a spun prop hub. We'll double check that one though.

THANKS!

Graeme