1999 225 ficht lower unit oil.

[JRM]

Changed the lower unit oil at 52 hrs and had a little suprise. When I took the lower screw off a little water came out. Then when I took the top screw out what looked like normal oil came out. It was not very milky and felt and looked fine. When I took the prop off I found about 3 feet of fishing line around the base of the prop but the prop seal look good to me. I just had the upper seal changed about 100 hrs ago so I'm assuming it isn't that one leaking again. The line wasn't tightly wrapped and pulled right out. Anyway I changed the oil and now was wondering if that prop seal is leaking how much damage I will do running it? Can I just change the lower unit oil more frequently, say 25 hours. I want to be able to use the boat untill the end of the fishing season around Nov before I take it in to get it checked out. Thanks for any input.

[ChampioNman]

Seeing you found the source of the problem, keep an eye on the fluid the next time out. Pop the bottom plug when you get home and see what has occurred. Milky again pop the carrier and change the shaft seal. Re-fill with XPR.

[JRM]

Thanks for the reply.

I will check it next time I run it. What does "pop the carrier mean"? Can I take the bottem prop shaft seal out myself? I thought that was a pretty involved thing. Also is XPR different/better from Evenrude/Johnson HI VIS gear case lube that the dealer sells? I don't recall seeing it on his shelf. Who normally sells XPR? Is it possible the line caused the seal to leak when it was spinning around with the prop but didn't damage the seal and it will now work properly with the line is removed? Or am I just dreaming :-)...

[JRM]

Oh one other thing. I have a 4 blade SS prop and a Mcard prop lock, with this lock system there seems to be no way to put a cotter pin on the prop. Am I missing something or should these locks have a cotter pin? The reason I'm asking is when I pulled the prop the lock nut wasn't as tight as it should be. I either didn't touque it right last time I had it off or it got loose on it's own and since there is no cotter key this could have been a very very bad thing... :-O!

[gearcaseman]

The best oil I have used has been Royal Purple 75-90 for these units. Give it a try, you'll like it.

[JRM]

How or why is it better than the Evinrude Hi vis?

[ChampioNman]

XPR is the new stuff, HPF would be the next choice, then Hi-vis. You can pull the carrier and bring it to your local dealer and they can swap out the seals for you, just ask them when they aren't busy, or go right before lunch with a pizza or 2. Should be less than $50. for the whole deal. If they want the motor then make it 3 pizza's just leave the anchovies at the pizza place .

[gearcaseman]

It's a very high quality synthetic with a proprietary additive called synslide, it makes gears run smoother, quieter, cooler and longer. We have seen 200-400 R.P.M. increases in the top end range. The guys in my area are running in the 100+ M.P.H. range and we all believe in it wholeheartedly. It's also very thin and reduces internal friction effectively. Good Luck! Eddie

[Bassmeister]

Welcome aboard Eddie, 'Bout time you showed up here!! I'll prolly be seeing or talking to you about a trade or swap on L/U.

[gearcaseman]

Hey, Thanks for having me! Sounds like you guys have a good thing going on here, I've been wanting to jump in for quite a while now, but have just now slowed down enough to get on board. Looking forward to conversing. Thanks again!!!

[ChampioNman]

The infamous Eddie Pope!! Welcome to the Site . You do great work and we can use you on the boards.

[gearcaseman]

Thanks Champ, What a nice compliment!! I feel this will be a lot of fun getting to know you all, and very informative for me. Too bad we did'nt have this 25 years ago, anyway, thanks again for letting me play! Have a good one and keep 'em running!!!!!!!!!!!!!